BX23D adding Kubota 'visible' filter/separator

[tshep]

Yes, this one - 6A320-58862 - with ?return? fitting on top.
How to handle this? My existing little gas-looking-filters are just in/out, no return.
I'm thinking long machine screw sealed into added threads.
Better thoughts?

In case anyone else looks at this filter, it DOES have a valve, internal, operated by the filter insertion.

And now, locations?
I would prefer before the lift pump, as to also protect it, and bowl (bottom at least) visible.

Any help?

 

[nyone]

If it has a return then you would just plug it.

 

[RjCorazza]

Keep in mind that most of the BX machines I've seen have (2) inline filters one before, and one after the electric lift pump. The second filter is there to prevent a catastrophic failure of the lift pump taking out the injector pump.
Kubota runs the same filter setup on the ZD mowers.

 

[diesel85]

I always wondered about this, but to be brutally honest, I've never had an issue running the stock setup. I got a 2002 BX2200, and I have never had an issue with fuel problems with those two little filters.

When I got the machine, I was surprised it didn't have a WIF separator, but after 23+ years of use, I can confidently say, don't mess with something that ain't broke.

And yes, I often times thought of doing a RACOR with a bowl, but it just never made much sense since I've never had any issues. The two inline fuel filters are also cheap and easy to replace every oil change to be a non issue for me. Or in other words: I couldn't justify it.

Only time I might consider it is if the diesel fuel is of poor quality, but that is as easy as getting better diesel fuel. Whole lot easier than doing plumbing of a more complex fuel filtration system. Even then, would I want to trust that filter to do it's job again bad diesel fuel? Nope, not a chance.

 

[dodge man]

This is what I did when I owned a BX, it’s a Racor filter. It’s about the only place to mount it. It takes the place of the small filter at the back of the tractor, I left the small filter in place by the engine. So to keep it before the lift pump I ran a line all the way up to where the Racor is located then all the way back to where the lift pump is. Not quite as complicated as it sounds.

 

[Doorman63]

Yes, this one - 6A320-58862 - with ?return? fitting on top.
How to handle this? My existing little gas-looking-filters are just in/out, no return.
I'm thinking long machine screw sealed into added threads.
Better thoughts?

In case anyone else looks at this filter, it DOES have a valve, internal, operated by the filter insertion.

And now, locations?
I would prefer before the lift pump, as to also protect it, and bowl (bottom at least) visible.

Any help?

On my L2501 that filter is on the right side of the tractor (sitting in the seat looking forward). Right above and slightly behind the front tire.

It does indeed turn off/on when it’s screwed off/on

 

[tshep]

Hey all, THX for replying.
I have looked at a number of plumbing versions, and became convinced the port is not a return, but a vent. The lines from this style all go to the top fittings of tanks, and not directly to returns (which also go to fittings at top of tank).
I'll suspect with the gas-filter-looking style I have now it is just ignored, as this first lies horizontally, and can self 'clear' to the level of out and in. (The 5 port junction right before also has its highest fitting as a vent to tank top.) The second is vertical, and very close to pump/injectors with their own vent/return.
I'm gonna':
Plumb it in with a clear tube to above the tank,
see if my theory is correct,
and if useful/needed plumb/tee into existing tank top vent hoses.

Still looking for a visible, protected, rear location?

 

[dodge man]

I’m a little confused on the lines you are talking about. Return lines should have nothing to do with it. Imagine if you could take the rear filter out and just put the new one in. There is a line going in to the new filter and one going out. Nothing else needed. You obviously can’t do this because there isn’t room for a bigger filter in the original location.

Trust me, the best place is where I show it my picture above. I tried some other places there just isn’t a better one. There have been several other people that have done this if you do a search.

 

[greenie]

I prefer the clear bowl with the red plastic ring that floats on water that accumulates.

 

[tshep]

HEY - Dodge:
I'm looking up models that use the larger filter (Ls,Bs) and looking at their fuel lines - feeds, returns and vents. The larger style filter (with an open vent on top, straight up) consistently has a vent line back to the tank top. My BX style (old gas looking) filters are simple In/Out flow fittings.
I'm gonna' have to infer that:
The larger filter (which is arranged vertically so water will settle visibly) requires a top vent to aid clearing of air out of the top of the filter.
So... I'm gonna check that on install.

Greenie: part number, pic?

 

[dodge man]

I’d get some kind of filter setup without all the extra lines.

 

[tshep]

You know, that Racor (is it?) you show seems to have left in/out, then right in/out, and then a center bleed? Like a vent?

 

[greenie]

On edit... in response to TSHEP's question.....I found this picture online - both my JD 790 and L4790 came with this type of filter. The filter itself presses on to a stub on the top of the housing and is held in place by friction. The bowl is removed by the pot metal threaded collar. The file photo above shows the bottom of the bowl full of water and the plastic float ring pushing against the bottom of the filter cartridge.
I've had good luck treating diesel with Stanadyne Performance Plus treatment; it disperses water into suspension and is consumed with the diesel. I never have any water to drain from pickup (7.3 IDI) or the two tractors. Water droplets in the fuel rather than accumulating in bowls causes no injector or fuel system damage.

 

[dodge man]

I don’t think there is a vent on the Racor but I’m not sure. BX’s are self bleeding so if it is a vent I never used it. The Racor is setup so you can plumb it in different ways so there are more openings than you need, the extras are just plugged.

 

[RaydaKub]

This is what I did when I owned a BX, it’s a Racor filter. It’s about the only place to mount it. It takes the place of the small filter at the back of the tractor, I left the small filter in place by the engine. So to keep it before the lift pump I ran a line all the way up to where the Racor is located then all the way back to where the lift pump is. Not quite as complicated as it sounds.


View attachment 3558084

Not sure, but I believe this may have been a 50 series tractor. The 23D the OP talked about is based on the BX2230. The 50 series has a longer body than the 30 series and the loader mounts on the 00 and 30 series are WAY heavier built. There just isn't as much room as the newer models. When in a tight turn, the front wheel comes very close to touching where my block heater cord hangs down.

 

[5030]

I run Racor filters on ALL my diesel powered equipment but.. Instead of buying the insanely expensive Racor bases, I went with the Chinese clone IFJF bases that are an exact copy of the Racor base for around 20 bucks on Amascon... I did install genuine 5 micron Racor filters with the clear bottom bowls that come with the IFJF bases (canned the supplied IFJF filter). I went with the marine grade Racor elements. Have them on both my M9's as well as my F series diesel front mount mower and deleted all the inline filters (on the F series) entirely. The IFJF bases come complete with 2 in and 2 out fittings plus a bleeder bolt on the top of them that I've never used. Took some rerouting of the fuel line on the F series but nothing on either tractor as I installed them in parallel with the ingoing fuel line. Keep in mind that both tractors have saddle tanks not high mounted fuel tank so the M's are drawing fuel from below the height of the engines. The Racor marine grade filters aren't cheap but after 3 years of farm use, I have yet to change them and any crud that may accumulate in the filters drops into the clear bottom bowl which you can drain quickly off via a petcock on the bottom of the bowl.

I took my Mag drill and drilled and tapped mounting holes for them on the loader uprights, easily observed and not in harms way and on the F series, I mounted the Racor on the bulkhead that seperates the engine from the rad (thanks to another poster in here that also has an F series). I totally removed both the pre fuel pump filter as well as the post filter and a length of fuel line from Auto Zone and some new band clamps did the trick. On the M's, I removed the elements from inside the OEM filter as it's no longer required and I purchased the Racor bowl heater as well and installed it in the IFJF clear bowl as the IFJF is an exact copy of the Racor assembly. Got to hand it to the Chinese, when they copy something, it's exactly like the Racor (expensive) filter but with a questionable filter which I replaced with a genuine Racor element. It's really plug and play, all the threads as well as the fittings are exact copies of the way more expensive Racor unit.

My philosophy is, if almost every marine application employs a Racor as well as big trucks, it's good enough for my use.

Over 3 years now and have not changed one filter element and again, any crud drops into the clear bottom bowl and I drain it away.

I do believe that the new post emissions Kubota tractors are going the same route and eliminating the clear bowl, pleated paper filters entirely.

 

[5030]

Not sure, but I believe this may have been a 50 series tractor. The 23D the OP talked about is based on the BX2230. The 50 series has a longer body than the 30 series and the loader mounts on the 00 and 30 series are WAY heavier built. There just isn't as much room as the newer models. When in a tight turn, the front wheel comes very close to touching where my block heater cord hangs down.View attachment 3650885View attachment 3650886

Something I never needed and don't want is a block heater and my tractors reside in an unheated barn in Michigan winters. 20 seconds on the glo plugs and they fire right up and if it's bitter cold, I let them run on fast idle while I have a coffee. Of course I maintain the starting batteries plus I take them out of circuit when the tractors are sitting, I keep all the conections clean and bright and replace the starting batteries at least every 4 years or less depending on what my load tester tells me...

Kubota's especially start very well cold and bitter cold when you use the glow plugs and so long as you allow the engines to warm up a bit, no harm is done, ever. Both my M's have well in the excess of 5,000 hours on them, never had a cold start issue, neither consume any oil either and it gets bitter cold here in the winter.

 

[dodge man]

Not sure, but I believe this may have been a 50 series tractor. The 23D the OP talked about is based on the BX2230. The 50 series has a longer body than the 30 series and the loader mounts on the 00 and 30 series are WAY heavier built. There just isn't as much room as the newer models. When in a tight turn, the front wheel comes very close to touching where my block heater cord hangs down.View attachment 3650885View attachment 3650886

Yes that looks a lot tighter. I thought about sticking the filter setup on the rops but didn’t really want it up there beside me.

 

[5030]

Put it under the Bonnet somewhere then. Not like it has to be visible constantly.

On my F sreies it's under the bonnet and I glance at it when I check the oil.