BX24 - doesn't start. No electrical

[richardbro]

Older bx24 with over 1000 hours. Great machine.
Kept in garage. Tried starting after 5 days off. Turn key, glow light comes on for about 4 seconds, then goes off. No noise, no electrical activity when turning key. Checked battery with voltmeter - has charge. Starter dead?

 

[Ed of all trades]

Sounds like a bad connection, try cleaning the bat terminals and make sure they are tight. Also check where the ground is attached to the block and make sure that connection is clean and tight. It does not sound like the starter to me. Try that and let us know how it does. Ed

 

[AStanton]

I'm no big wrench, how old is the battery? If it's over 5 years, get another one. Check the battery terminals for looseness or corrosion. Could be a safety switch also. Make sure no one monkeyed with the pto levers. Be glad it won't start in the garage rather than on the road, 2 miles from your house or stuck in some field.

 

[richardbro]

There usually a buzz when turning the key and the pto is engaged. I do have to fiddle/push down on the pto lever when crude builds up underneath, but in this case there's no buzz at all. There's a good charge on the battery. The tractor is about 8 years old.

I'll check on the connections but it is odd to be that the thing was alive for about 4 secs then just died. The tractor didn't move so I don't see how something getting loose would be involved. That's why I suspect something got fried. I'll clean and check the connections anyways though.

 

[k0ua]

Get an assistant. Set his or her butt in the seat. Now take your voltmeter and place leads on the battery posts. NOT the battery clamps. but directly on the posts. Have the assistant attempt to start the tractor. What does the voltage read directly on the posts when an attempt to start is made? Get back with us with the results, and we will move move on to next steps. Remember there are 4 battery connections. the two on the battery posts, and the ground connection on the frame, and the connection on the starter lug. Starters are the last thing to check in "no start" conditions. They are rarely the problem. Bad connections , bad cables (corroded) are epidemic. The simple test in the first sentence will tell you if you need a new battery.

 

[richardbro]

Ok, when measuring from the posts I get 12V. My daughter sits on the seat and turns the key and the voltage drops to 0. I have not idea what that means but I suspect all the connections are good and reaching the starter, and the starter is consuming the voltage... ?

 

[k0ua]

Ok, when measuring from the posts I get 12V. My daughter sits on the seat and turns the key and the voltage drops to 0. I have not idea what that means but I suspect all the connections are good and reaching the starter, and the starter is consuming the voltage... ?

No, it means your battery is all done. It has a very high internal resistance. If you measure near 0 volts when the key is turned and it returns to 12 when the key is released AND you are measuring directly on the posts NOT the battery clamps, then your battery is finished. You will need a new one.

 

[k0ua]

Ohms law defines your problem. E=IR Where E stands for "Electromotive force" or Volts. Sometimes the equation is written V=IR. the "I" stands for current measured in amperes, and the "R" stands for resistance.

To put into words your particular situation: When large amounts of current are attempted to be drawn from the power source (the battery) the high internal resistance of the battery causes a severe voltage drop across this internal resistance, so that no real power can be developed into the load (the starter and associated circuitry.)

 

[richardbro]

Ok, thanks! I'll pick up a new battery tomorrow. So far this little tractor is holding up well, considering it's the only tractor on our little 5 horse farm.

 

[richardbro]

New battery installed - tractor starts! Thanks guys!