I am purchasing a BX24 with a 60" deck. I will have to buy a trailer for this machine so I emailes Kubota about the total weight. Surprisingly they said that the BX minus the deck weighs about 1530. The deck adds another 200lbs. Does this seem right? I think that the bare tractor, no FEL and backhoe might weigh @1530 Does anybody know? Thanks Keith
Bx24 weight
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asylum575
Platinum Member
He must be quoting a BX tractor. The BX 24 with the FEL and backhoe tips the scale at about 2250 lbs. The 60 MMM adds another 250-300lbs. It's about 2500lbs complete. You might be able to squeeze it on a single axle 3500# 14' trailer, but it's not recommended. You should go with a dual 3500# 16' with brakes on both axles.
RichT
Silver Member
Asylum is correct. IIRC, the 1530 is the tractor + loader. This is the number that shows up on the specs for the BX TLB, even tho the "B" weight isn't included. This little glitch by Kubota has caused much confusion. The hoe adds another 700lbs or so.
I had my trailer + BX22 weighed. Total was 4000lbs, minus about 1750lbs of trailer leaves about 2250lbs.
As suggested, go with a double axle trailer. My 17ft car hauler was used to move my BX22 (recently sold) and now moves my B26 (4000lbs).
I had my trailer + BX22 weighed. Total was 4000lbs, minus about 1750lbs of trailer leaves about 2250lbs.
As suggested, go with a double axle trailer. My 17ft car hauler was used to move my BX22 (recently sold) and now moves my B26 (4000lbs).
Thanks for the info- It seemed that the spec sheet was not right I was surprised that Kubota's reply to this question was answered incorrectly -oh well? I decided to go with a 16' trailer with dual axles just to be on the safe side. Thanks for the help - Keith
frank_miller
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I have a single axle for my BX24 (60" too, sweeper). I do not need a duel when I do not travel far with it..
frank_miller
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Keithctc said:
Have not used the 60" yet...only had the 54"
Keithctc said:
I too have been surprised to experience a similar phenomenon with Kubota. I have contacted several people at Kubota.com over the years, and have received incorrect answers to questions on several occasions. When I took the time to point out obvious innacurracies in Kubota replies, officials either didn't follow-up, or seemed indifferent about their mistake. I find this corporate behavior to be unprofessional and hard to believe.
Volfandt
Veteran Member
2250lbs sounds about right as I guesstimate my BX23 @ 2500lbs fully loaded (FEL, BH and 60" MMM)
I've had no problems todate towing my BX23TLB on my little used 6x12 3500lb single axle trailer for short distances (15 miles and less). If I were to regularly tow I'd go w/a minimum of a 6x14 7000lb dual axle w/electric brakes.
Not Frank but I've been finish mowing alittle over 4 acres w/a BX23 & 60" MMM going on my 4th season and I find the finish quality to be as good or better than any of my previous L&G and lawn tractors. I'm using gatorblades now which has improved the cut and shreads the clippings finer than the OEM std blades. The OEM blades did provide a good cut also btw. When asked, I recommend the BX w/a 60" MMM
I agree w/this statement as it is the safest way to tow but
I've had no problems todate towing my BX23TLB on my little used 6x12 3500lb single axle trailer for short distances (15 miles and less). If I were to regularly tow I'd go w/a minimum of a 6x14 7000lb dual axle w/electric brakes.
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KeithInSpace
Veteran Member
60" deck rocks. Plan on a solid 2,300# for the tractor, FEL, and BH.
I have a rig similar to Mr. Volfandt. The single axle just doesn't cut it. No question. Don't make the mistake if you're buying a new trailer (I already had mine and HOPED it would work...it doesn't...too floppy and tippy)
After much consideration, I am about a week from pulling the trigger on a 10,000# dual axle 7' x 16' wood deck dovetail with weight distributing hitch for $3,425. I had my eyes on a 7,000# flat wood deck with folding ramps for $2,100 ($2,525 with weight distributing hitch), but my wife deemed it "wimpy" and wanted something that "looked stronger".
Who am I to argue? My discussion is here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/117665-7-000-vs-10-000-a.html
I have a rig similar to Mr. Volfandt. The single axle just doesn't cut it. No question. Don't make the mistake if you're buying a new trailer (I already had mine and HOPED it would work...it doesn't...too floppy and tippy)
After much consideration, I am about a week from pulling the trigger on a 10,000# dual axle 7' x 16' wood deck dovetail with weight distributing hitch for $3,425. I had my eyes on a 7,000# flat wood deck with folding ramps for $2,100 ($2,525 with weight distributing hitch), but my wife deemed it "wimpy" and wanted something that "looked stronger".
Who am I to argue? My discussion is here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/117665-7-000-vs-10-000-a.html
drtydeed
Silver Member
manual(s) for bx23 states
T=1520
BH= 578+40(bucket)
L=430+132(bucket)
MMM=250
If you subtract the loader from the tractor weight that everyone is posting that would mean the tractor weights in at (1520-560= 960 lbs). Not a chance. My cc GT3235 weighed 800. You're not going to convince me that 23 is 160 lbs more. Check the weights of 1850/2350. They don't automatically come with loaders.
If I recall, there is a tag on the ROPS for 26xx lbs. I guess I need to weigh it some time.
T=1520
BH= 578+40(bucket)
L=430+132(bucket)
MMM=250
If you subtract the loader from the tractor weight that everyone is posting that would mean the tractor weights in at (1520-560= 960 lbs). Not a chance. My cc GT3235 weighed 800. You're not going to convince me that 23 is 160 lbs more. Check the weights of 1850/2350. They don't automatically come with loaders.
If I recall, there is a tag on the ROPS for 26xx lbs. I guess I need to weigh it some time.
KeithInSpace
Veteran Member
Bagger is nice. Mine eats shear pins for lunch. Went through 2 class 5 bolts a mow until I switched to split spring pins. Now I only have to replace the shear pin once every other mow. To be fair, I hit tree litter quite often which "shock loads" the shear pin. It just bends a little at a time and eventually fails.
It is my understanding that the new baggers deal with shock loads much better than mine...belt drive or something. Mine's all gears.
The capacity is pretty good. It fills all three bags to heaping every time...first the one to the left, then the middle, then the right one closest to the impeller. When I can't see daylight through the holes anymore, I know it's time to empty!
It sucks pretty good as long as the grass isn't really wet or clumpy. If you mow every week, it is PERFECT. If you only mow every few weeks and take several inches off at a time, you'll have a slow go of it.
It is great for leaves, but the capacity is a little short, forcing you to take more runs to the compost pile. You can mitigate it by how you suck the leaves up (hit them with the left side of the deck so they pass through all three blades before going through the impeller), but the only real answer is to stay on top of them.
It is a bit of a PITA to take on and off, but it is a VERY stout unit that will last the life of my tractor. What more could I ask?
If you were mowing acres of wide open fields, I'd consider a PTO driven trac-vac or something, but with all the trees I really didn't have much of an option.
All in all, I really like it. Works as promised. Has a few quirks, but it really is a nice unit.
It is my understanding that the new baggers deal with shock loads much better than mine...belt drive or something. Mine's all gears.
The capacity is pretty good. It fills all three bags to heaping every time...first the one to the left, then the middle, then the right one closest to the impeller. When I can't see daylight through the holes anymore, I know it's time to empty!
It sucks pretty good as long as the grass isn't really wet or clumpy. If you mow every week, it is PERFECT. If you only mow every few weeks and take several inches off at a time, you'll have a slow go of it.
It is great for leaves, but the capacity is a little short, forcing you to take more runs to the compost pile. You can mitigate it by how you suck the leaves up (hit them with the left side of the deck so they pass through all three blades before going through the impeller), but the only real answer is to stay on top of them.
It is a bit of a PITA to take on and off, but it is a VERY stout unit that will last the life of my tractor. What more could I ask?
If you were mowing acres of wide open fields, I'd consider a PTO driven trac-vac or something, but with all the trees I really didn't have much of an option.
All in all, I really like it. Works as promised. Has a few quirks, but it really is a nice unit.
Blackbird_BX
Bronze Member
I keep looking at everyone's trailer recommendations for towing a BX24 and am discouraged with all of the 7,000 - 10,000 lb trailer recommendations, since my tow vehicle (Toyota Highlander) is only rated for 3500 lbs. I keep hoping to come up with a trailer that can carry the BX safely. It would only be occasional use over fairly short distances. The biggest problem seems to be in finding a large enough trailer under 5000 lbs GVW.
KeithInSpace
Veteran Member
It's not that the trailer is overloaded, rather the sidewalls of the single axle simply flex too much for comfort. And there are no brakes.
If you can feel comfortable without trailer brakes, that's step one. I'm certain the Highlander isn't wired for a 7 pin connector, but you could do it if you really wanted to. I'd prefer having brakes.
Step two would be to get a 3,500# trailer and swap out the Load Range C tires with Load Range D or E tires. This will probably require swapping the hubs to match the lugs of the higher range tires. Or just find the tires and swap them out on your rims.
PERHAPS that would be semi-sufficient for short travel distances. But in the end, it isn't a TRAILER that will help carry your BX safely...it is the right TRUCK-TRAILER COMBO that will accomplish the task.
Not trying to be mean, but personally I would not consider towing my BX with a uni-body cute-ute. Not that it won't go down the road OK. It is when you need to make an emergency maneuver. I've had to do that before (with my 5,500# boat) and it is NO FUN!!! THAT is when I learned the power/wisdom of having a proper tow vehicle. Fortunately, I was in my Expedition. If I was in my 4Runner, the situation would have probably gotten VERY ugly VERY fast with the lighter truck, not as good of brakes, etc.
Just my very humble opinion.
If you can feel comfortable without trailer brakes, that's step one. I'm certain the Highlander isn't wired for a 7 pin connector, but you could do it if you really wanted to. I'd prefer having brakes.
Step two would be to get a 3,500# trailer and swap out the Load Range C tires with Load Range D or E tires. This will probably require swapping the hubs to match the lugs of the higher range tires. Or just find the tires and swap them out on your rims.
PERHAPS that would be semi-sufficient for short travel distances. But in the end, it isn't a TRAILER that will help carry your BX safely...it is the right TRUCK-TRAILER COMBO that will accomplish the task.
Not trying to be mean, but personally I would not consider towing my BX with a uni-body cute-ute. Not that it won't go down the road OK. It is when you need to make an emergency maneuver. I've had to do that before (with my 5,500# boat) and it is NO FUN!!! THAT is when I learned the power/wisdom of having a proper tow vehicle. Fortunately, I was in my Expedition. If I was in my 4Runner, the situation would have probably gotten VERY ugly VERY fast with the lighter truck, not as good of brakes, etc.
Just my very humble opinion.
KeithInSpace
Veteran Member
Ooops. You're right. Actually, my tires are filled with helium. And I regularly have pink and white balloons tied to my ROPS. Perhaps that's the difference. Ha.C6rider said:
ChuckinNH
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The guy who bought my BX22 towed it 4 hours + home with his Lexus (same basic vehicle as a Highlander) on a lightweight (very nice) two axle trailer. My BX had loaded tires, etc. He said it rode fine, and he had absolutely no problems. He was careful in loading it, and getting the tongue weight right. I know another guy who sometimes tows his 35hp NH with his Highlander, but I wouldn't recommend that! Many Highlanders come with towing packages, and do include the wiring for trailers.
drtydeed
Silver Member
Blackbird_BX said:
The key is finding a D/A trailer with brakes. Check your state laws for brake requirements. Up here, anything over 3K gvwr (trailer) requires brakes. I would not recommend towing without them...if you do, you're asking for real trouble.
I would not be as concerned with the "towing capacity" of your vehicle. If you have a decent d/a trailer w/ brakes, that will do most of the work.
Blackbird_BX
Bronze Member
Thanks. I don't think my Highlander would have trouble with the load on the flat land in lower Delaware and speeds I would be trailering the BX24 using a trailer with brakes. The problem is finding a D/A trailer with brakes that isn't rated over 3,500 lbs GVWR. The lightest rated dual axle trailer I've found was 5,000 lbs. That wouldn't be a problem if I had a 2008 Highlander, since it has tow rating of upto 5,000 lbs. There can be legal and liability issues from towing a trailer with a GVWR that exceeds the tow rating of the towing vehicle even if the load doesn't exceed the vehicle's rating.drtydeed said:
I know of at least one person safely trailering a BX23 over more challenging terrain with a 4Runner on a dual axle trailer with brakes. I expect my Highlander would do better than a 4Runner (7,500 lb towing capacity) in an emergency situation due to it's lower center of gravity, independent rear suspension and shorter wheelbase for the same vehicle weight and track width. When you consider the Highlander's advanced vehicle stability control, electronically controlled braking system, 4-wheel disc brakes and suspension, I wouldn't be surprised if it performed better than a larger "conventional" truck in an emergency. Not that I would ever want to put that to the test.
