BX25 BH Hose Tool Suggestion

[CHDinCT]

Looks about as bad as when I added the optional rear remotes and valve to my old BX1860. A cheap set of 6-point crows foot wrenches from Harbor Freight did the trick for me. Good luck with yours.

 

[Stargazer]

Hi Would taking the next one off give more room to tighten leaker then reinstall 2 steps back 1 ahead???

 

[Artisan]

Hi Would taking the next one off give more room to tighten leaker then reinstall 2 steps back 1 ahead???

That is the next process if the 12 Point, Flare Nut, Offset wrenches I ordered do not work. I do NOT want to take a bunch of stuff apart on a new tractor if I can help it...

 

[tommu56]

I can tell you what I use on electrical fittings arranged like that!
and I wouldn't hesitate to try it on a hydraulic fitting.

If you do any plumbing you usually have one in your tool box.

tom

 

[Artisan]

I can tell you what I use on electrical fittings arranged like that!
and I wouldn't hesitate to try it on a hydraulic fitting.

If you do any plumbing you usually have one in your tool box.

tom

Tom,

I have 3 different flavors of that style "Basin Wrench" .

One small for installing faucets #1017

One Large for 1.5" stuff #1019

One HUGE 3/4" Drive w/ a full blown pipe wrench on the end.

None of them will work, not even close but THANX for the suggestion!

My service manager wants to see the wrenches I found!

 

[Artisan]

It leaks again... There is "maybe" 1/16" between these hoses. The service manager tells me the proper procedure is to label all hoses, remove all hoses and retighten from one end to the other.....Ughhhhhhhhhh ERrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

I see what is happening, the backhoe swing left and right is loosening this thing, I thought I had it tight enough and yesterday it loosened again. Sure I can warranty it but that is of itself a real chore. I am going to try ordering 2 different snap on tools. I looked at many tools including the dimensions of said and the Snap On is one that has the smallest dimensions to "try" to get in there.

AN850811B Wrench, Crowfoot, Flare Nut, 11/16", 12-Point and FRX221 Socket, Flare Nut, 11/16", 6-Point. I wish the later were available in 12 point...

So I call Snap On, my local mobile guy does not have them, looks like darn near two weeks before I will have them due to holiday...err.

 

[zoltanthegypsy]

I was reading through this thread, and just about to suggest something like that FRX221 when I saw you were already on to it.

I faced an issue like this when working on a boat outdrive. Hoses ending in fittings too close together to get at with a crow's foot.

I grabbed a 12-pt thin-walled deep socket and took the grinder to it. Opened a slot in the working end and enlarged it above (as in that FRX) so there was room to turn.

If you don't want to wait, it might be a good excuse to mangle a hardware-store cheapie.

Good luck,
Z.

 

[Artisan]

Hopefully a season hydraulic mechanic sees this... I need to try to fix this darn thing.


The YELLOW arrow is the leaker...

To get a wrench on the leaker I must remove the entire assembly with arrows red-white-blue. I have questions on this assembly.

It looks obvious, remove blue first, then what? Do I loosen red then unspin white?

Now tighten yellow?

Is there an O-Ring under red-white-blue? Is this simple or is there an o-ring or something I need to replace to put the red-white-blue assembly back together?

(I just went and looked at it again, this is providing the "assembly" will unscrew w/o hitting the leaker! Oh man...)

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Artisan, I can relate. There is a "boss" o-ring under the red arrow. It stays on the fitting and unless it tears it should stay in place and be the least of your worries. If the Snap on socket doesn't work, the best thing is to remove what you need to and do it correctly. I have done jobs like this a thousand times. Once you do it it isn't near as bad as you thought it would be. Take your time, label everything. I like to center punch marks in fittings as opposed to labeling. I have never seen a center punch mark come off. Take pics before you start from every angle. After you finish I guarantee you will tell yourself it's way easier than you thought.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Oh, remove blue. Loosen red, see if white will spin and clear leaked.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

I just looked at your original pics. I can fix this in under a half hour. If the red fitting won't come off, start from the other end and remove them all. Literally dude, I promise you, under a half hour.

 

[Artisan]

Wayne thanx for the input. Yesterday I decided to give that a try, it makes sense that is the procedure. I removed blue then put a wrench on red and nothing. I mean it did not want to turn! I have some big guns on these arms and that thing is tight!

I wasn't ready to break anything or round off anything on my new hoe, so I put blue back on and I await those 2 snap on tools. If they do not work I drag it to the stealer for warranty. I would like to handle it myself and I tried but dang, if warranty was run out, I would have grabbed a cheater. I made sure I had the best fitting wrench too. I tried metric and sae wrenches for proper fit. It is TIGHT. Too tight.

Whoever at the factory did this poor workmanship is causing me a lot of grief. The hoe is covered in hydraulic oil, it is in the trailer now too, on the road, on the gorund on the job, on my tools, soaked in a rag, a real mess. I read an article yesterday titled "The real cost of hydraulic leaks" . It tears your enviroment up.

In reading this board I found I am not the only one whom has had this problem w/ a BX25...and I think the fel and bh are actually made in the USA w/ the tractor from overseas. I could be worng here.

 

[Artisan]

HEY WAIT ! LOL, Wayne I didn't see the above post till after I composed my reply! LOL, How did you know red would not come off! I guess it is a been there, done that intuition ehh? I DID look at the other end, a 1/2 hour? The stealer will book Kubota for a 1/2 a day I bet! I will re-access.