BX25D 3PH Splitter Problem

[dragoneggs]

Good thread to follow. What exactly would be the fix if you didn't want to disconnect the splitter? I don't understand what kind of valve you could install. I am a serious newb when it comes to hydraulics.

 

[Stonehaller]

Also, the handle which controls the valve actually deflects so I don't think I'm just dealing with a leak in the valve. If fluid was just getting past the valve seals I could understand, but the handle moves as if someone was standing there operating it as if trying to split a log. Pretty crazy.

If the valve handle is moving to extend the cylinder, then oil pressure is probably leaking into the detent cavity and pushing the valve spool.

 

[Stargazer]

A ghost perhaps ?? Heard dem be pretty bad this time of year.

 

[Dead Horse]

For what it is worth, when I purchased my splitter (American) from the prior owner (I believe he bought it new and used it sparingly) it never worked right. The return detent was there, but no amount of adjusting the pressure at the valve would make the return automatically kick off. I finally looked at the way the valve was plumbed and determined it was done in such a way as to make the detent kick off circuit never see any hyd pressure. I swapped two hose connections and voila, I had a perfectly working splitter valve circuit. Tweaked the pressure setting and it has been a happy gal ever since.

I can only imagine that the valve was originally assembled that way and my PO didn't know enough about the way splitters should work to notice the difference. I posted a thread about this experience in the hydraulics section a few years ago.

Hey, ya never know!

it is this thread and the solution is in post #34. BTW, JJ was a Patient master in my quest for knowledge........ 4 years later, and still my hat is off to him!

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/180563-why-does-tph-log-splitter-4.html

 

[macguyver13]

I guess the fix would be to replace with a power beyond valve according to my understanding of other comments on here, but as I said, that would be a bit more involved and my cost savings would likely be eaten up considerably.

I do like the idea of fluid leaking into one side and then pressurizing that side. Sounds plausible at least. Any ideas on how I could go about testing that without completely disassembling the valve?

I did double check the plumbing and it looks right according to the manual. The in/out ports are connected correctly. I did install the handle wrong at first (it would automatically stop when it hit the end of the stroke instead of once it had returned fully retracted), but I flipped it around and got it working correctly.

As I stated earlier it was working great the first couple of times I used it, so that makes me think it may be some kind of leak that developed (maybe a poorly constructed valve) and now reacts that way under pressure.

 

[Stonehaller]

Any ideas on how I could go about testing that without completely disassembling the valve?

If you have a pressure gage, tee it into the outlet or tank line of the valve. Lift something with your loader and if you go over about 150 psi, then there is too much pressure on the tank line of the valve and it will not work correctly.

A simpler check would be with the tractor off or the splitter disconnected, loosen the cap over the detent on the end of the valve opposite the handle (if your valve has such a cap - may want to post a picture). If it is full of oil, then what I stated earlier may be the problem. Don't move the handle with the cap off as the detent may come apart and you will be chasing the parts.

You could post your issue in the hydraulics forum with a link back to this thread to see if you get some other opinions or suggestions.

 

[dragoneggs]

You could post your issue in the hydraulics forum with a link back to this thread to see if you get some other opinions or suggestions.

That is a real good idea... likely many more experts watching and able to help there!

 

[CHDinCT]

I'm voting for a bad seal or perhaps bad valve to start with, but a bad seal makes more sense if it was working right to start with. Log splitter valves aren't that expensive so I'd first see if parts (i.e., seals) are available for it, and if not, just pick up another log splitter valve and replace it.

As an example, here's a cheap one from Surplus Center

1 SPOOL 25 GPM LOG SPLITTER VALVE W/AUTO DETENT

 

[macguyver13]

Excellent advice. I guess for now I'll see if it continues to work as long as I am only using the splitter by itself (i.e. no loader work interspersed). In the case that the valve does need replacing, I'll order one like the one CHDinCT mentioned. I was looking around that site a bit and found some very cool looking valves (including with PB) but they get up over $200. It would be nice, but I'll probably get the cheapest if I end up doing it.

Thanks again for everyone troubleshooting with me. Sure is nice when people can share info and ideas for free!

 

[macguyver13]

OK, just a quick follow up for anyone who cares. Well, I'm an idiot. I'm still learning about hydraulics, but I thought I knew things that I didn't know.

I tried using the splitter again today and it wouldn't retract, it would only extend and the handle was deflecting by itself. That confirms to me what some of you have said which is that I probably blew out a seal on one side of the valve. Really frustrating. What I didn't understand when I built this thing was that when I use the loader, the line becomes highly pressurized (as opposed to when no implements are being used and the fluid is just flowing at a relatively low PSI through the open center valves). That high pressure is exerted on the valve body and blew a seal which was probably meant for a few hundred PSI, not in the thousands.

So I could replace the cheap valve or rebuild it. But I might accidentally do this again by leaving the splitter hooked up and lifting something heavy with the FEL. So today I ordered a nice wood splitter valve that has a power beyond port on it. If my understanding is correct, this should take all the high pressure generated when the FEL is used, and divert it away from the valve so it doesn't get damaged. It is kind of expensive, but it looks like a nice one that should last. I'll try to update this post again in a bit once all the parts arrive and I have a chance to assemble the whole thing.

Thanks again for everyone's patience with me. I have learned a lot about hydraulics today. Enough to make me realize what else I don't know.