BX25D rear remotes?

[dragoneggs]

Nice work fitting and working around obstacles while still being ergonomically friendly.
Didn’t understand how the ROPS bolts to the bracket ? The sanded surface circles?

I'm using Click Bond adhesive bonded stainless steel 3/8in studs.

 

[dragoneggs]

Wow looking good! I’ve been waiting for this for so long that this is like Christmas Morning. Although with how long it took you to get to it, it might take me 2x as long.

Hah no... now that I'm hopefully paving the way, you should knock it out faster... at least elapsed time! Hardest was just getting started.

 

[Smokeydog]

I'm using Click Bond adhesive bonded stainless steel 3/8in studs.

Interesting. Post a link? That will be good test for that product. Fair amount of weight and vibration. Curious how that holds over time. Reason for not using U-bolts?

I think your reasoning for not wanting to compromise the ROPS by welding or drilling is valid. However hanging tool boxes, valves or other equipment from the ROPS can comprise too. I do it too.

Maybe combining the brackets for the tool box and valve mounting could add structural strength? Don’t see anything bad in what you are doing, just the opposite. Admirable problem solving to increase the function of the tractor.

 

[JK22]

Interesting. Post a link? That will be good test for that product. Fair amount of weight and vibration. Curious how that holds over time. Reason for not using U-bolts?

I think your reasoning for not wanting to compromise the ROPS by welding or drilling is valid. However hanging tool boxes, valves or other equipment from the ROPS can comprise too. I do it too.

Maybe combining the brackets for the tool box and valve mounting could add structural strength? Don’t see anything bad in what you are doing, just the opposite. Admirable problem solving to increase the function of the tractor.

ClickBond is cool stuff. The epoxy can be a bit finicky until you figure out how much you need to mix it (a lot) and how much to apply (thick). But it’s a great alternative to drilling through your tractor and I have several things mounted to my tractor with the stuff.

 

[dragoneggs]

I know Click Bond very well. Full disclosure, I work at Click Bond and have helped grow this company for the past twenty years. Our biggest customers are Boeing, Lockheed Martin, Airbus, the US Navy and we are on most things flying that have been built in the last 15 years or so. Reliability and durability are non issues here if done right.

Click Bond is unique in that each part comes with pressure activated 'spring like' fixture that holds it in place and applies continuous positive pressure during the cure even as it shrinks. Actually the thinner not thicker the bond line the better, when dealing with structural adhesives. You saw the bare spots on the ROPS where I got down to bright metal and cleaned it just before bonding... bonding to bare metal results in a chemical bond that is far stronger than most people realize.

The adhesive and studs I am using can easily support 1500lb static tension and 4000lb each in static shear. The adhesive is also a special formulation that does extremely well in shock and vibration. Proof is the US Navy uses it to hold down 3 man crew berths, well decking material supporting amphibious crafts, etc. I can't but I'd love to share some Navy video of the ballistic testing they have done involving. Anyways, absolutely no concerns about this application.

I can go on and on about proper adhesive selection, surface preparation, etc. but I will leave it for now unless someone wants to know more. PM me if you do... I didn't intend this thread to dwell on Click Bond.

 

[Citydude]

Very well done! On my L2501 I hung the valves on the ROPS with u bolts. It was not very ergonomic as yours are.

 

[Smokeydog]

Click bond studs is a very interesting part of your installation. Useful product particularly in some applications.
My fabrication modifications tend to look more Mad Max vs SpaceX. You really Musked that up!

3pt leveling features on Kubota leave much to be desired. The topNtilt will greatly improve.

 

[dragoneggs]

Click bond studs is a very interesting part of your installation. Useful product particularly in some applications.
My fabrication modifications tend to look more Mad Max vs SpaceX. You really Musked that up!

3pt leveling features on Kubota leave much to be desired. The topNtilt will greatly improve.

Ha ha... SpaceX is a good customer of ours!

 

[dragoneggs]

Okay, now I need to figure the routing from the on board hydraulic fittings to the remotes.

 

[Smokeydog]

B26 remote OEM.

ROPS was already drilled on this side to attach bracket right below sticker warning do not drill or weld to ROPS.

Sheet metal shield on side and top. Don’t know if meant to protect the operator or quick disconnects? Heat shield? Hydraulics get pretty hot when operating. Prevent grabbing QDs while getting off/on backhoe? Hydraulic leak protection?

 

[dragoneggs]

B26 remote OEM.
View attachment 663578
ROPS was already drilled on this side to attach bracket right below sticker warning do not drill or weld to ROPS.

Sheet metal shield on side and top. Don稚 know if meant to protect the operator or quick disconnects? Heat shield? Hydraulics get pretty hot when operating. Prevent grabbing QDs while getting off/on backhoe? Hydraulic leak protection?

Interesting. Thanks for sharing! Just went out to assess my installation. I could easily fabricate a second bolt-on shroud attaching to the mounting bracket that would extend up between the seat and unit and then outboard covering it to provide the protections you mentioned.

The shroud could also become a platform for mounting an additional feature/function? Not sure just what that might be but now you got me thinking. Always looking for real estate on my BX.

 

[Smokeydog]

Hose Save Spring and Clamps for Skid Steer Attachments

Maybe some hydraulic hose management solutions. Bungee cord or tie racks? Lots of hoses in a small space that have to move.

Arm rest, support?

Valve handles lockout?

 

[dragoneggs]

Okay, now I need to figure the routing from the on board hydraulic fittings to the remotes.

View attachment 663547 View attachment 663546

Definitely will be some hose routing and management thinking next. Need to mount the 3 pt hitch with the hydraulic cylinders and start lookin at the runs. I'm counting 7 hoses! I really hadn't given it much thought until taking a closer look at the remote. I have the pressure in, pressure out, and power beyond, and then the two hoses going to/from the two cylinders for the 'top' and 'tilt'.

I want the hoses to be efficiently run so they are compact to the tractor rear.

 

[Smokeydog]

Just reread the entire thread to try to understand the hydraulic options.
Either be the backhoe or 3pt with remotes? Two line existing backhoe connection to the tractor with open center remote valves?

Most valves have a plug for power beyond. You can always utilize this option later if you need hydraulic power beyond to another valve. It’s not required for the remotes? Be one less line to worry about? If you actually ever used it lots more lines. Asking rather than telling?

Imagine you or someone spec the remote valves to or above the BX gpm flow?

Since your valve is on the left, is your tilt cylinder going to be on the left too?

Sorry for all the questions. Have wanted a topNtilt for a long time for grade work.

 

[dragoneggs]

Okay starting to sort out the hose routing. I bought the kit from Fit-Rite Hydraulics. Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

The remotes and the two cylinders were received awhile back. Brian also sent me some orange 'test' hose to use once I mounted the remotes/cylinders. Taken me two years since life has been getting in the way. Anywhoos... I got the three point hitch mounted with the cylinders in place. According to the instructions, the tilt cylinder should be mounted on the right side. It also says to move the right OEM link over to the left side. I didn't do that and I am not sure why one should. Edit: Check that... now I understand the OEM right side is an adjustable link, just swapped it out and put it on the leftside.



Unfortunately, but no biggie, this means for a little longer hose having to cross from left side where the remotes are.

The routing of the hoses from the remotes to the cylinders is a no brainer but not completely sure if I have the other 3 hose connections right. For you hydraulic knowledgeable folk, please look to see if I have it correct. A-A, B-B, C-C.



I understand from talking to Brian at Fit-Right, that it is possible to plumb such that the valves are always connected to the hydraulic circuit whether the backhoe is on or other implement that uses the remotes. Not sure if what I have shown achieves that. Look forward to comments!

Wondering also if I should post this for recommendations in the hydraulics forum?

 

[check]

Wow, Mark - what a job! When you are finally done you can make me one. Free week at our rental cottage in Muskoka/Haliburton?

 

[dragoneggs]

Wow, Mark - what a job! When you are finally done you can make me one. Free week at our rental cottage in Muskoka/Haliburton?

That sounds like a fair deal! I will supply the bracket, fasteners, and adhesive. Heck, I will even install it!

Now let's just get past this COVID crap. Actually, I have good reason to travel to Toronto when things break.

 

[K5lwq]

How is your project going? Were you able to sort things out?

 

[dragoneggs]

How is your project going? Were you able to sort things out?

I figured out all of my hose lengths but I am a little nervous on the 'B' connection involving the T fitting per your suggestion post #9 in my other thread. Does it matter which way the QA female and male connections are oriented with respect to flow direction?

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...r-remote-hydraulic-connection.html?highlight=

Also not sure on the B hose with Tee if it matters which leg of the T goes where... performance wise. Probably over thinking this but I have zero experience with hydraulic connections.

I don't want to send my hose requirements to Fit-Rite until I am sure I got it right. In the mean time, life has been getting in the way. Maybe you can reassure me I am okay!

 

[K5lwq]

It does not matter which side you put the female or male connection on. I would use whatever would help insure I got the tank line from the backhoe to the right spot. Maybe use color coding to keep the three backhoe lines correct.

It also doesn't matter on how you configure the tee. As long as fluid can flow to tank you are good.

I fully understand life interfering with projects! I always think I can do things quicker than reality. :laughing: