BX2660 HST fan GONE, gone, gone...

[imajeepnut]

Thanks Dave....sounds like it's best to open up the top side to make working on it easier.

 

[Zick]

Has anyone thought about possibly using an electric fan mounted somehow that it blows air towards the same spot?
There would obviously be some questions that need answering.
1. How many CFMs does the factory fan produce.
2. Electric fan would need to be weather proof, kind of like an automobile rad fan.
3. Mud, dirt, grass, etc could all be potential issue for it though.

My other thought on this problem is;
Does anyone know how much the temp difference in the trans gets to be with and without the fan working?
I just wonder how much it's really cooling it off.

 

[imajeepnut]

Good thoughts Zick. Electric would be great. Even better would be an inline cooler similar to a trans. cooler...mounted before the radiator.

 

[imajeepnut]

HELP.... How do you get the scalp knob off? That's the only knob keeping me from taking the fenders off.

I'm ready to pull the engine 2hrs and 40min. in to the process.

One thing that I did notice...when the side handles were installed, they must have been put on with an air wrench because the nutsert that "bites" in to the plastic is stripped.


Back to the original question...how do I get the scalp knob off? Do I have to take the screw out of the end of the shaft underneath the tractor? Seems tricky to do.

 

[Zick]

Sorry, scalp knob?

 

[donn12]

For mine I left the old fan hub on (exactly what I was left with when the blades broke). I cut the fan on one side so I could slide it over the old hub and I cut some of the face off so it would be flush against the old fan cover. I did it once with just glue and broke it again a few days later. The second time I fixed it I used glue and a couple of screws so I could go right back to using the BX before the cement dried. That was over 50 hours ago. I never jacked it up and it only takes 10 minutes or so. The fans are only 8 bucks so I think its worth a try. I cant see any advantage to doing it from above. Shortly after I bought the front and rear skid plates from Brotek and I would highly recommend them. The kubota protector is a joke compared to brotek.

 

[imajeepnut]

Zick...actually it's the anti-scalp dial for the MMMower. Kinda' like when we called the anti-sway bar a "sway bar" which is what we always called it in high school! :laughing:

Looks like it should pry off...but the exploded diagram isn't too clear on that part. It shows the knob off of the shaft...but heck...it could be hot glued from a parts supplier then installed...who knows. Maybe someone here has taken it off and can chime in soon.

 

[bp fick]

Try heating it with a hair dryer and pulling? If there is no keeper or set screw, most likely it must pull off. Gotta vague remembrance of that coming up in other threads.

 

[Kubota-guy1911]

It is tough to get off. Use a hammer and keep tapping it with short strokes all around it's edge. It's such a close space. Be patient, it will come off but it's a real pain.

kj

 

[imajeepnut]

I got the knob off...hours later! lol I have never had such a hard time with a pressed on knob...a little excessive in my opinion. If they all are this tough to remove, I would order a new knob the day before the job...and cut it off to speed up the process. I took a piece of 4x4 and layed in front of the knob and layed a hammer across the 4x4 with the head under the knob. I struck the handle to drive it upwards. It took the better part of 45 min believe it or not! My method was similar to ringing the bell at the fair with that big hammer. But the upstroke worked. I have pics.

Fan is replaced and I have documented every step to make it easier for those who choose to replace their own fan. I made notes of how long it took me as well as little things that you will appreciate knowing since I've already done it myself.

Should I start a new thread for my dissertation? Tell me what you think.

NOTE: I found SO many loose nuts, bolts, and stripped bolts that I'm a little leary about the process Kubota uses to assemble these tractors. Two of my motor mount nuts were little more than finger tightened. The nutserts that hold the rear fender grab bars in place are stripped. They were installed with air tools I'm sure, and overtightened....so my grab bars are useless in the rear...where it needs to be tight as it holds the fender tight. The bolt that holds the rear collar tight on the drive shaft is so stripped it has no threads! I could't believe this one. It served no purpose being in there. It backed out a little ways and just stopped. I thought I would never get it out...but when I did I was flabbergasted. Also... one of the two screws that holds one top side of the radiator was finger tight.

I'm glad I did the work myself. Now...I am checking all nuts and bolts.


Does everyone want a new thread for this?