cabs and cab heaters questions

mountain_man · Oct 1, 2003

For those of you that have followed my mid-PTO and snowblower installations, I'm starting a search for a cab for my JD790 for wintertime snowblowing use. (I've blown the budget this far why stop now...besides I'm helping the economy!)

Looking thru TBN archives, I've found the following manufactures of cabs: Curtis, Femco, Sims, Cozy Cabs-Custom Products, Jodale-Perry, Laurin, Fremar and many generic & roll-your-own modifications. Did I miss any?

Cost is always an issue, however I would like it to be durable (hard or soft sides?). If possible I would like to buy US made although the Canadians likely have lots of experience with cabs. Any recommendations or comments?

Also if you have a cab heater, how well do they work? Do they keep the windshield reasonably clear? Can you explain how it's connected into the cooling system? Are there adapters that connect into the large upper/lower radiator hoses, or are there other smaller connections off the water pump and engine? How difficult is it to remove the cab heater in summer (quick disconnects)?

Any comments welcome. Thanks,

hwp · Oct 1, 2003

I have a Jodale-Perry cab for my tractor. They are expensive but it came with the tractor so it didn't cost me a lot. It has an overhead heater that is fed hot water from near the connections of the top and bottom rad hoses. The blower is three speed and certainly keeps the windshield defrosted - actually the windshield is warm enough to melt the snow that blows on it from the discharge of the snowblower and the cab is warm enough not that a jacket is not required even when the temperature is well below 0 deg. F. Theoretically the hot water should rise to the top of the system and shouldn't need any asistance to circulate. However that only works if there is no air in the system. I take my cab off in the summer so getting the air out of the system every fall would be a pain. To overcome this I put an inline fuel pump on the "hot" line to push the hot water up to the heater. This works great. I also put quick disconnects on the engine and hoses to simplify the changeover process. I can instal or remove my cab in about an hour.

mountain_man · Oct 2, 2003

Thanks mucho for the great picture and info. The heater connection info is exactly what I was looking for - clever idea using a pump to get rid of the air. Once the air is purged, do you continue using the pump, or is engine water pump circulation sufficient?

From the pictures it looks like Jodale-Perry makes a top-of-the-line cab. Unfortuntately the price to purchase new ($3500 base up to $6500 with accessories) is just not in my budget (unless I win the lottery /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif).

I'm looking at Sims cabdepot.com ($1250 for the base unit up to $2500 with accessories + shipping) as well as Femco and Curtis.

hwp · Oct 2, 2003

My tractor was previously owned by a small town so it probably had to look after its employees fairly well, so spent a fair bit of money on the cab.

Because the pump is in-line in the heater hose, I run it all the time to keep the circulation going, otherwise the pump would block the flow.

Good luck. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

rbarker · Oct 2, 2003

( Also if you have a cab heater, how well do they work? Do they keep the windshield reasonably clear? Can you explain how it's connected into the cooling system? Are there adapters that connect into the large upper/lower radiator hoses, or are there other smaller connections off the water pump and engine? How difficult is it to remove the cab heater in summer (quick disconnects)?)

I have a Curtis Cab with the heater installed. I only got it last March so I don't have a lot of experience with keeping the windshield clear but it does throw pretty good heat. Mine hooks into the gooseneck on the engine block and somewhere underneath that escapes me at the moment. It has an in-line shut off for the water for summer use. I'm sure it could be modified for quick disconnect but it doesn't come that way. My cab stays on all the time, it would be a lot of work to remove and reinstall it every year. Hope this is helpful! Let me know if you have more questions of wowld like more pictures.

mountain_man · Oct 2, 2003

Bob,
Thanks for the info and great picture of your Curtis Cab. If you've got more pixs available, please post them. A picture of how it mounts on to your tractor as well as the engine-heater hook-up would be great.

If it wouldn't be too much trouble to answer a few questions I'd sure appreciate it. How difficult was the installation? Were any holes needed to be drilled? How sturdy is the frame and does the cab rattle much? Does the cab amplify the noise? Did your existing alternator have sufficient capacity or did you need to upgrade? I guess I've used up my quota of questions... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Rch · Oct 3, 2003

MountainMan,You might consider adapting a hot water heater from a compact car or pick-up truck. The local junklady( she runs the office) sold me a heater from a "Datsun" pick-up that had a 3 speed squirrel-gage fan (quiet! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif) that I enclosed in a plywood case. That puppy really poured out heat and I never ran it at high speed. A piece of sump pump hose directed some of the output to the windshield. The junklady had several ready to go right on the shelf. It cost me $28 /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif The local auto/truck parts dealer (Car Quest) had all the fittings to tap into the motor's coolant /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

mountain_man · Oct 3, 2003

RCH - That's a great idea /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif. I'm OK with plumbing, electrical and general mechanical stuff (no welding tho...). I was looking at the JC Whitney Auxiliary Heater for $137+shipping, but your solution is sure a lot less expensive.

Did you tap into the large upper/lower radiator hoses with parts from Carquest or somewhere else on the water pump and engine? The reason for my question is my JD790 engine (Yanmar 3TNE84) has an unused auxiliary plug (about 5/8" or so) coming off the top of the water pump (next to the temp sensor/output to the radiator), as well as a drain connection at the back of the engine block (#17 & #31 on attachment). I'm trying to decide which heater connection method to use. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Rch · Oct 3, 2003

Mountian Man,I would plumb into the auxillary water jacket/water pump cast iron ports and avoid tapping into a radiator hose. Almost all engines these days have these ports. Sometimes they are inaccessble tho because of the way the motor is obstructed by other equipment.

That JC Whitney heater takes up a lota space that tractor cabs don't have. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

I'd put in ball valves on both hoses to the heater so you can completely shut it off in the summer and isolate the heater for repairs etc /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif Pay attention to the valve for controlling flow- some are on the heater itself, some are seperate in the motor compartment. With a ball valve installed anyway to isolate the heater for repairs or catastrophe you can use that to control flow and go for a compact package /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

I'd also get a bigger hose to put around the heater hose (maybe split it and use nylon electrical ties to hold it on there for insulation and wear protection along its route /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

mountain_man · Oct 3, 2003

RCH - You've thought the cab heater installation a lot further than I have. Thanks for all the great suggestions, which I'll use! I've haven't decided on a cab yet, so this will be a couple of months out.

Rch · Oct 4, 2003

Mountain Man, race car fabricators TIG weld tubular frames up for their machines. Right there is a major component of a cab and would be a simple job for them. The roll over protection device is probably half of thr frame and is already in place /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

For the sides sandwiching reflective insulation( it comes in rolls. is about 3/8"thick with a silver Mylar finish) between tin and/or plywood/fiberglas would work for the sides and top. Also, there are windshield wipers off of SUVs or minivans that mount on the rear glass that can be used in the back or front windshield. A CJ Jeep has flat front winshields that would adapt nicely. The forgiveing thing with a tractor is, generally, weight is good so homemade stuff is easier. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

mountain_man · Oct 4, 2003

After looking at costs/aesthetics of Curtis and Femco (OEM for JD) soft side cabs, I might consider "rolling my own". Unfortunately, I've got several other projects started that I need to complete first. I've requested info from the other manufacturers to compare.

This excellent thread from DDT Cab in progress, shows how a talented fabricator can make a cab (IMHO) better (and much less expense) than the manufacturers.

Von · Oct 4, 2003

Mountain man,
I got a price of $1195.00 for a Curtis soft sided cab for my Kubota B2710. I have seen these cabs and they are very well built. I don't think I could make one as nice for half that amount. I was thinking of making a frame that would bolt around the ROPS out of thin wall tubing, than have a boat canvas maker make a cover for it. But I think he is going to want at least $400-500 and I have to make the frame. I think I'm better off just putting that money towards a Curtis cab! Now I just have to find the $$$$ some where, and I'll to be warm this winter! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Junkman · Oct 4, 2003

I was thinking of getting a Curtis cab for my Kubota. I called them and asked for the mounting instructions so I would know what I was in for during installation. They sent it to me at no charge and it answered all my questions. They are located in Worcester MA and they do make a very good product...... the Junkman

rbarker · Oct 5, 2003

( Bob,
Thanks for the info and great picture of your Curtis Cab. If you've got more pixs available, please post them. A picture of how it mounts on to your tractor as well as the engine-heater hook-up would be great. )

I will take a couple of pictures of the heater hook up to the engine. Here's a side view of the whole cab.

( How difficult was the installation? Were any holes needed to be drilled?)

The dealer installed it. He told me that his crew spends a lot of time on an installation.

( How sturdy is the frame and does the cab rattle much? Does the cab amplify the noise? )

Very sturdy, although it's not a ROPS cab. I do not notice any rattling but it definately amplifies the noise. I wear hearing protection and it doesn't bother me.

( Did your existing alternator have sufficient capacity or did you need to upgrade? )

I have the stock dymo on my tractor. It seems to handle the load fine. I have also added lights, though so I may upgrade to be on the safe side.