cadplans
- Thread starter cj7
- Start date
- Views: 14661
powermaxpaul
New member
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2002
- Messages
- 6
- Location
- Mt. Horeb, WI
- Tractor
- Simplicity 9020 (2), Simplicity 4041 Tractor/Loader/Backhoe
I designed and built this backhoe for my 20 HP Simplicity Powermax 4041. Dont know too much about the L2500, but if it's at least a 1400# tractor w/o attachments it might work for you. At that minimum wt. I'd recommend a loader for counter balance as well.
Paul
Paul
ClayG
New member
Anyone comtemplating building a CadPlans backhoe might want toread Jim Steeby's experience at http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/caddigger/caddigger.html
His cost to build a Model 821 4 years ago was $3,800. You can buy the low end 3ph backhoes alrady built for not much more than that.
ClayG
His cost to build a Model 821 4 years ago was $3,800. You can buy the low end 3ph backhoes alrady built for not much more than that.
ClayG
We are building a Caddigger 608 backhoe for a BX2200. The plans were $120 and the full metal kit will cost $1538 plus $300 for shipping. I estimate another $100 for supplies. You can also get hydraulic stabilizers, a "super boom" and a thumb for $750 from MedKit. This brings the total to $2058 or $2808.
Al's Small Backhoe in Vermont also sells the very same backhoe for $2700 plus shipping, or the kit for $1990 with the plans, plus shipping. None of his backhoes have cleared reserve either.
I know there are other backhoes that fit a Cat I hitch, but they would exceed the 3 Pt weight limit of the BX. That is why I'm going with the Caddigger. If you know of other, options, please let us know. Thanks for the help.
Al's Small Backhoe in Vermont also sells the very same backhoe for $2700 plus shipping, or the kit for $1990 with the plans, plus shipping. None of his backhoes have cleared reserve either.
I know there are other backhoes that fit a Cat I hitch, but they would exceed the 3 Pt weight limit of the BX. That is why I'm going with the Caddigger. If you know of other, options, please let us know. Thanks for the help.
Bud
Silver Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2000
- Messages
- 128
- Location
- Near Pittsburgh, Pa.
- Tractor
- Kubota B2400 & 1972 Economy Power King
HD58835
Nice looking backhoe. If you can, put in a couple more pictures. I was thinking about a backhoe for my B2400, but I think the 708 would be a bit heavy. If I go for it I guess I would have to go with the 608.
Did you cut the plates yourself, or did you have them cut in a shop? Tell us a little more about building it.
Bud
Nice looking backhoe. If you can, put in a couple more pictures. I was thinking about a backhoe for my B2400, but I think the 708 would be a bit heavy. If I go for it I guess I would have to go with the 608.
Did you cut the plates yourself, or did you have them cut in a shop? Tell us a little more about building it.
Bud
DUMBDOG
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2002
- Messages
- 1,074
- Location
- Central ND, Central FL
- Tractor
- NH 1630 W-7308 FEL/ Kubota L4630GSTC W-LA853 FEL WQ/A-CC 2544
Just ordered the plans for the 821, thought about putting it on the tractor, but after seeing some of the posts regarding possible damage to the tractor went the self contained route as i could not go to the large digger due to the size of my tractor.
HD58835
New member
Bud,
Thanks for the complement! I had as much fun building it as I do "playing" with it. I torch cut and ground the plates. The rest is cut using a metal band saw. Large holes were cut using metal cutting hole saws such as those made by Makita. 1" and smaller were done with drill bits. All were done using a drill press. Welding was done with an old Miller Thunderbolt stick welder, E6011 and E7018 rod. I made the mistake of spot welding the cutting edge and teeth to the bucket and the first time I used it to dig out a stump, I left the cutting edge and the teeth in the ground. I then welded them back on solid with E7018 rod. The bucket was kind of a challenge to build. Using the sides of the bucket as guides, tacked the bottom to both sides, then welded on a loop to each end and hooked in a cable type come along and started pulling the bottom around the sides and tacking it as I went. I will post some more pictures later.
Thanks for the complement! I had as much fun building it as I do "playing" with it. I torch cut and ground the plates. The rest is cut using a metal band saw. Large holes were cut using metal cutting hole saws such as those made by Makita. 1" and smaller were done with drill bits. All were done using a drill press. Welding was done with an old Miller Thunderbolt stick welder, E6011 and E7018 rod. I made the mistake of spot welding the cutting edge and teeth to the bucket and the first time I used it to dig out a stump, I left the cutting edge and the teeth in the ground. I then welded them back on solid with E7018 rod. The bucket was kind of a challenge to build. Using the sides of the bucket as guides, tacked the bottom to both sides, then welded on a loop to each end and hooked in a cable type come along and started pulling the bottom around the sides and tacking it as I went. I will post some more pictures later.
dourobob
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2002
- Messages
- 670
- Tractor
- Wheel Horse 522xi
My buddy and I are in the process of building an 821. We have no deadline and he is patiently teaching me about working in his shop - (when I went to high school my choices for shop were typing or Latin /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif so this is a great learning experience for me).
I am interested in your comment about using a metal cutting hole saw -
what thickness of steel did you cut?
was it for those 1.5 and 2.5 inch holes in the quater inch and half inch thick steel?
did you find a particular brand worked best?
Thanks.
Bob
I am interested in your comment about using a metal cutting hole saw -
what thickness of steel did you cut?
was it for those 1.5 and 2.5 inch holes in the quater inch and half inch thick steel?
did you find a particular brand worked best?
Thanks.
Bob
motelman
New member
It would be great if you could post some progress pictures as you build the BH.
dourobob
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2002
- Messages
- 670
- Tractor
- Wheel Horse 522xi
I have been taking some photos along the way and I hope I'll have something on a web site in the next couple of weeks.
Stay tuned
Bob
Stay tuned
Bob
DK35vince
Super Member
DK35vince
Super Member
DK35vince
Super Member
The 710 model caddigger will separate behind the seat and go on a 3 point like the 708 model.
StoneHeartFarm
Veteran Member
Vince,
Could you not eliminate the engine and run the hoe off the tractor's hydraulics? Just always wondered about that one.
SHF
Could you not eliminate the engine and run the hoe off the tractor's hydraulics? Just always wondered about that one.
SHF
DK35vince
Super Member
Steven,
Yes ,there are 2 pins and a top link behind the seat.
I take them out and unhook the hydraulic quick couplers and the gas engine and axle section will detach.
Then I can hook up to the tractor 3 point and just plug the quick couplers into the tractors hydraulic remotes and run off the tractor.
Yes ,there are 2 pins and a top link behind the seat.
I take them out and unhook the hydraulic quick couplers and the gas engine and axle section will detach.
Then I can hook up to the tractor 3 point and just plug the quick couplers into the tractors hydraulic remotes and run off the tractor.
DK35vince
Super Member
If you go with Cadplans the model 708 is for 3 point hicth.
The 728 runs off a gas motor,and the 710 like the one I made will run off the gas motor or it can separate to work off the 3 point.
The 728 runs off a gas motor,and the 710 like the one I made will run off the gas motor or it can separate to work off the 3 point.
StoneHeartFarm
Veteran Member
Vince,
I think the point I'm getting at is cost. By building a trailered hoe, you eliminate the strain from the 3 point and/or the need for a subframe mount. By eliminating the engine on the trailer hoe and using the tractor's hydraulics, you retain the 3 point/subframe benefit, plus eliminate the cost of an engine and pump for the trailer. This would make implement changes a matter of only a few minutes. It would have the negative benefit of making the trailer hoe entirely dependent on the tractor, but no more so than a 3 point hoe.
SHF
I think the point I'm getting at is cost. By building a trailered hoe, you eliminate the strain from the 3 point and/or the need for a subframe mount. By eliminating the engine on the trailer hoe and using the tractor's hydraulics, you retain the 3 point/subframe benefit, plus eliminate the cost of an engine and pump for the trailer. This would make implement changes a matter of only a few minutes. It would have the negative benefit of making the trailer hoe entirely dependent on the tractor, but no more so than a 3 point hoe.
SHF
DK35vince
Super Member
I'm sure you could build one that way.
But when running on the gas engine and digging a ditch I dig as far back as I can then just stick the bucket in the ground and push myself back and dig some more.
If you were hooked to the tractor you would need to get off and pull the tractor ahead all the time.
With no subframe and running on the 3 point I have the same problem.
That is why I always just run off the gas motor.
But when running on the gas engine and digging a ditch I dig as far back as I can then just stick the bucket in the ground and push myself back and dig some more.
If you were hooked to the tractor you would need to get off and pull the tractor ahead all the time.
With no subframe and running on the 3 point I have the same problem.
That is why I always just run off the gas motor.
dourobob
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2002
- Messages
- 670
- Tractor
- Wheel Horse 522xi
Hey DumbDog
Are you using the MetKit parts or buying locally?
We are wrestling with a bushing question now as MetKit supplies "nylon" bushings and Cadplans calls for bronze.
Any comments?
Bob
Are you using the MetKit parts or buying locally?
We are wrestling with a bushing question now as MetKit supplies "nylon" bushings and Cadplans calls for bronze.
Any comments?
Bob
