camp house floor insulation

[bcp]

Maybe use a 2x4 instead, and go one size smaller joist.

Bruce

 

[joeu235]

I hope your neighbor with the ranch doesn't mind that you are building that close to him.

It's my father in law's place and he's quite the character

 

[joeu235]

Thanks for all the feedback everyone. The next time myself and my brother-in-laws are working on the cabin is Feb 10 so I've got time to figure it out.

 

[Little Tractor]

Been a while since I last posted here but this tread head a nail on the head. I build sheds and small houses with this exact same problem. Solution is to build the floor in sections (called platforms) each is 4 by 8 feet with "upside down" floor joist then 1/4" plywood, next turn back over and install a 4x8 sheet of subfloor plywood (usually 3/4") with only four screws, then install to the support piers or blocks. wait for it.

Next install "grade beams" completely around the outside edge of building on the piers to hold all the platforms in place, next install walls on the outside beams, then the roof, and wall cladding.

Now back to the floor, it is nicely dry no water in the insulation, lift the subfloor from the first row of platforms install insulation (usually mineral wool - Roxel), roll out vapor barrier one row at a time and then reinstall plywood sheets and firmly fasten down.

Note, often times go the extra and paint everything before installing to provide extra protection (white - the pencil lines show up better).

This helps in our neck of the woods due it rains just when you don't want it and also makes a very strong floor system (double floor joist every four feet.

Yes, cost a little more but also uses smaller components which a easier to handle and place.

Cheers and post pictures of your project.

 

[BLSXJ]

Considering this is a camp house. I'd frame your floor normally, then sheet it with the cheapest stuff you can find (1/4" OSB?), then lay down a 1" layer of rigid foam. Then sheet with 5/8 or 3/4 T&G sheets, or go directly to wood planks for a finished floor.

Is this in Texas? are you heating or cooling the camp?

 

[rhunt]

Just my 2 cents here, put your sub-flooring on, then 1 or 1&1/2" rigid foam, then 1/2 inch or better plywood. Your floors will be nice and comfy. When you install your doors, etc. you will need to take into consideration the raised floor height. I have done this and know it works. This is when I lived in NJ. Bob

 

[RNeumann]

Been a while since I last posted here but this tread head a nail on the head. I build sheds and small houses with this exact same problem. Solution is to build the floor in sections (called platforms) each is 4 by 8 feet with "upside down" floor joist then 1/4" plywood, next turn back over and install a 4x8 sheet of subfloor plywood (usually 3/4") with only four screws, then install to the support piers or blocks. wait for it.

Next install "grade beams" completely around the outside edge of building on the piers to hold all the platforms in place, next install walls on the outside beams, then the roof, and wall cladding.

Now back to the floor, it is nicely dry no water in the insulation, lift the subfloor from the first row of platforms install insulation (usually mineral wool - Roxel), roll out vapor barrier one row at a time and then reinstall plywood sheets and firmly fasten down.

Note, often times go the extra and paint everything before installing to provide extra protection (white - the pencil lines show up better).

This helps in our neck of the woods due it rains just when you don't want it and also makes a very strong floor system (double floor joist every four feet.

Yes, cost a little more but also uses smaller components which a easier to handle and place.

Cheers and post pictures of your project.

I had to read this a few times to get it. The way this is built it sounds like a rim joist and the the beam on the outside of that- where I’m from a grade beam is concrete and used for an entirely different thing.
Anyway I like the concept. I’d probably just block the joists at the ends and hold the subfloor off the edges the thickness of the rough framed walls. This would save having a rim joist and then a beam outside that.

 

[Einthewoods]

I just skimmed this thread, so not sure if someone has already mentioned this. If you go onto YouTube and check out "Boss of the Swamp" you will hear him swear by multiple times about a product for this exact purpose.


Shop Reflectix 2-sq ft Reflective Roll Insulation (24-in W x 1-ft L) at Lowes.com

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Just my 2 cents here, put your sub-flooring on, then 1 or 1&1/2" rigid foam, then 1/2 inch or better plywood. Your floors will be nice and comfy. When you install your doors, etc. you will need to take into consideration the raised floor height. I have done this and know it works. This is when I lived in NJ. Bob

I assume this is after the walls are framed? So walls go on sub-floor, then insulation around them?

 

[Little Tractor]

RNeumann see PM.