though i worked as a welder in my youth, i'm a long way from a pro. like the idea of going heavier gauge for the patch. of course mig comes to mind. if stick, go w/rods recommended above, reverse polarity, make say 1-2" intermittent beads, then either come back to weld, or use high quality sealant between. (rod technique & angle, not lingering in puddle for long but for adequate penetration) can also keep the heat from blowing through.... clean sand/grind prep is what it's all about too. let us know how it goes
Can I repair bush hog sheet metal with stick welder?
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ruffdog
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I never used small 6013 so I'll have to get some to tinker with. The local store has Hobart 1/16 and 5/64 on sale too.
fairly close to the 6011 standby, definitely not a drag rod. might have more iron in the flux, but may stand corrected on that. betcha you can do it.
oldnslo
Super Member
the main thing I have found on thin material is do your very best to get it nice and clean and have tight joints. Any gaps allow burn through much easier and 6013 doesn't burn through rust & dirt real well either.
I have welded walk behind snow blower housings with 6013 and my old Lincoln 225 buzz box. Like Shiel arc suggested tack it every 1/2 inch or so and skip weld helps dissipate the heat also.
I have welded walk behind snow blower housings with 6013 and my old Lincoln 225 buzz box. Like Shiel arc suggested tack it every 1/2 inch or so and skip weld helps dissipate the heat also.
Thanks for all the input, I must be wrong about the gauge of the deck metal, I was looking at the area where it's rusted pretty bad and it seems really thin, so I was just guessing. But I looked online and it seems most machines of this class have anywhere from 10-14ga decking. This cutter is from the 60's, when men were men and steel was thick.
I've got a Lincoln tombstone AC/DC, so I think I'll try electrode negative with both 3/32" 6013 and 3/32" 7018. I find 7018 much easier to drag than 6013, but haven't used either for anything this thin. Maybe once I cut out the bad areas there won't be enough left to bother patching.
I've got a Lincoln tombstone AC/DC, so I think I'll try electrode negative with both 3/32" 6013 and 3/32" 7018. I find 7018 much easier to drag than 6013, but haven't used either for anything this thin. Maybe once I cut out the bad areas there won't be enough left to bother patching.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
I have burnt a few packages of them. You can weld pretty thin stuff with them, but I don't know about 20 gauge..
k0ua
Epic Contributor
OK, now we are talking, I am sure that your metal is way thicker than 20 gauge Yeah get the 3/32 7018 after it and go..
newbury
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If you've got many holes it might be worth picking up a pound of 1/16 Lincoln rods from Lowes if you can't find them elsewhere.
taking that to a another level (esp w/large rust voids on examples other than yours) you could always cover the entire deck w/medium gauge material. actually, on my own larger HD hog, they have 2 layers on the top deck, one for abuse, the other for appearance. not in any way recommending that, just that options vary. my take would be going the simplest route possible to achieve the job.....you have the advantage knowing the fix is not structural. best regards
PILOON
Super Star Member
Would you believe that I have welded 6013 with an industrial 24 volt 25 amp transformer? 1/16 and 3/32 works.
The transformer is a Hammond generally used on heavy production to operate relays etc.
Striking an ark is challenging but darn good practice, also you get to reset breakers often (sticky rod) .
While I never bothered to check out penetration, things tended to stay glued.
The transformer is a Hammond generally used on heavy production to operate relays etc.
Striking an ark is challenging but darn good practice, also you get to reset breakers often (sticky rod) .
While I never bothered to check out penetration, things tended to stay glued.