Can I repair bush hog sheet metal with stick welder?

[GLyford]

Haven't used 7014, I'll get some and give it a try.

I'll warn you now...you might get spoiled.

I might have a pound or so of 60xx on hand in various sizes, a pound of 7018-AC that's probably soggy by now, and about 10 lbs. of 7014 in various sizes. I can't claim to be a good welder, but whatever I weld with 7014 seems to hold, which is about all I can ask for.

 

[bjr]

I've got an old ford bush hog, the sheet metal is rusted through around edges but gearbox and structure is in good shape, so I'd like to try to repair it. I'll be cutting out and replacing the 20ga sheet metal with patches. Then I have to weld the new 20ga patch material to angles and brackets that range from 1/8" to 3/16" thick. So the big problem is welding thin material (20ga) to thicker material (1/4"-3/16"). I'm a pretty good stick welder, a really good gas welder, but don't do mig, and I'm trying to decide if this is doable. I'd probably go through a tank of gas trying to get this thing hot enough, and it would be tough to avoid burn through, so that probably won't work. Is it possible to stick weld these two materials? I generally use 1/8" 6010 to tack everything, then 1/8" 7018 to run the bead on thicker material. What would I use for this if it's doable?
tnx

I read most all the pages, and I'm in the reskin it crowd. You got all you need. That little AC/DC is good machine for what you tryin' to do. I'm assuming you got a oxy/acetlyne outfit? Get to the local steel salvage/sales yard get some 12/10 ga. big enough to cover the deck. Notch out wear needed skip weld using any of the fast freeze mild steel 3/32 rods as been suggested. Ya ain't buildin' fuel tanks for the space shuttle here, just Get-R-Done. Paint to suit and go Mow. I guarantee you'll never even think about the repair Two months down the road because by then something else will have popped it's head up for you to worry about. bjr

 

[MH8675309]

I second the bronze notion. It would be nicer to look at and bronze handles vibration better than weld because of its elasticity.

 

[GoatDriver]

I second the bronze notion. It would be nicer to look at and bronze handles vibration better than weld because of its elasticity.

That must be why the factory uses bronze,huh?.....Oh wait the factories do not use bronze in this application.
Weld the thing and be done with it. I have lived on a working farm all my 50 years and I wonder where some folks come up with the things they do sometimes.
In the "real world".... everyday life, working and repairing equipment or whatever on a farm or job site...well...some just wouldn't make it.

 

[LD1]

That must be why the factory uses bronze,huh?

The factory used a solid piece of metal called a deck. So with welding in a patch, is putting welds somewhere the MFG never had to weld.

Bronze is too slow for factory production and more costly

 

[GoatDriver]

The factory used a solid piece of metal called a deck. So with welding in a patch, is putting welds somewhere the MFG never had to weld.

Bronze is too slow for factory production and more costly

I have repaired (welded) quite a few bush hogs in my time here on this old earth and most of them have some welded seams from the factory.
It is not rocket science although some try to make it out to be.

 

[LD1]

Never said they didn't have welded seams. Mine has welded seams

 

[MH8675309]

That must be why the factory uses bronze,huh?.....Oh wait the factories do not use bronze in this application.
Weld the thing and be done with it. I have lived on a working farm all my 50 years and I wonder where some folks come up with the things they do sometimes.
In the "real world".... everyday life, working and repairing equipment or whatever on a farm or job site...well...some just wouldn't make it.

Nope Goatdriver bronze or braze as its called. It will take vibration better and will easier for this fella to do without making a mess out of it. Its called using what you have available. I welded professionally for years and have lots of real life experience on things like this. I have seen blue prints that called for bronze versus a weld because of the vibration factor. I respectfully disagree.

 

[MH8675309]

That must be why the factory uses bronze,huh?.....Oh wait the factories do not use bronze in this application.
Weld the thing and be done with it. I have lived on a working farm all my 50 years and I wonder where some folks come up with the things they do sometimes.
In the "real world".... everyday life, working and repairing equipment or whatever on a farm or job site...well...some just wouldn't make it.

Nope Goatdriver bronze or braze as its called. It will take vibration better and will easier for this fella to do without making a mess out of it. Its called using what you have available. I welded professionally for years and have lots of real life experience on things like this. I have seen blue prints that called for bronze versus a weld because of the vibration factor. I respectfully disagree.

 

[drizler]

That stuff should weld like a dream. Unless it's made of some kind of hardened steel to keep it thin . I battled with that putting a new rear frame on my 2000 Silverado last winter. The junk thin hardened steel just rolled up when I tried to weld it. It was only really on there as a guide so not a really big deal but **** that is awful stuff. I had to hit it with the 110 mig and flux wire to get it stuk together then hit it again with the 6011. Most awful metal I ever dealt with. If I hadn't had the baby mig I think it was doable using that tiny 1/16" 6013 sine you have the ability to roll it around and work straight down and that helps a lot. Then go over after with a larger rod and melt it all together. Not pretty or professional but it it stays together it is good nuff right. Don't you just love the way they use that TIN to build everything today? The results are just what you see, rust.