How much weight difference is there between steel rims and thicker alloy rims? On 18" rims for example? Only time I bought after market rims was over 20 yrs ago they were black powder coated steel spoke rims with 31s lol, for an old Toyota pu I owned. I Was single at the time, Never had a problem with the those either. Personally I'd rather get functional options like trailer towing, snow plow prep package etc then over overpriced factory alloys that add a little bling for a year or two.
Can't believe Sams Club did me this.
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5030
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Like I said, the heavier the rim and tire are, the more unsprung weight there is and the more adverse impact that unsprung weight has on shocks and suspension parts and why today, most manufactures are going to alloy wheels. Not only do they look nice but the lower the unsprung weight and it's impact on suspension components.
The tire outfit I deal with (if I have them mount and balance tires) which I do often, charge me 15 bucks a tire even if I buy the tires from them (which I do occasionally) but they not only balance them but apply sealant, mount them and torque them correctly.
The older I get, the less I like muscling tires in the shop and I keep a can of rim sealant here too. Really works on small tires like I have on my ZTR mowers and the smaller ones on my implements. I don't get rim leaks even with the steel rims on them because I seal the rims all the time.
Even the tractors get rim sealant. None of them loose air pressure at all. Nothing more aggravating than a flat on a mower or even a wheel barrow. Don't happen here.
You can get rim sealant online btw.
The tire outfit I deal with (if I have them mount and balance tires) which I do often, charge me 15 bucks a tire even if I buy the tires from them (which I do occasionally) but they not only balance them but apply sealant, mount them and torque them correctly.
The older I get, the less I like muscling tires in the shop and I keep a can of rim sealant here too. Really works on small tires like I have on my ZTR mowers and the smaller ones on my implements. I don't get rim leaks even with the steel rims on them because I seal the rims all the time.
Even the tractors get rim sealant. None of them loose air pressure at all. Nothing more aggravating than a flat on a mower or even a wheel barrow. Don't happen here.
You can get rim sealant online btw.
5030
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The big ongoing issue with alloy rims, is they look good until the clear coat chips and they start to oxidize and look crappy. I have Alcoa rims on my pickup truck and they get polished every spring, it's a job for sure. I use Flitz polishing compound and their buffs too. On the vehicles other than the truck, I tend to ignore it, just too tedious to polish them, besides you have to strip off the clear coat first which takes Aircraft stripper and time.
5030
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Not sure but I do know the alloy rims on my F350 are substantially lighter than the steel wheels are as I have a couple of the steel rims.
Rockbadchild
Elite Member
My fuel rims are at least 5 pound heavier then the aluminum rims and my summer set (mud and snow tire) are significantly heavier since they also have bigger radius on it and are wider. Being wider and bigger radius they should have less traction due to the increase in contact area but because of the additional weight they are better then my winter tires despite being worse tires then my winter one.
Rockbadchild
Elite Member
That's better, and I agree with this statement... also lighter rims/wheels are also better on fuel millage.
However how long will it take the extra cost of alloy rims to offset the cost in fuel savings?
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Been there, done that. That is a LOT, I mean REALLY a lot, of work. My respects for doing it but I'll never do it again.
If I had a show car? Maybe. Even then, I think (No, I KNOW) I'd pay somebody or buy the wheels already polished and just touch them up once in a while.
I've used Sam's for all my tires for the last 30+ years. Except for once on my Wife's car. Got a sooper-deal on some Bridgestones from a Firestone dealer. Bridgestone rules. I used to run nothing but Michelins but Bridgestone passed them by some time ago. Of course, that's just my opinion and I respect those who think otherwise.
My Wife's car had Michelins on them from the Factory and when we swapped them out for the Bridgestones, it was like the car was on rails. It handled, stuck, steered and stopped at least twice as good.
I put Duelers on my Ram 2500 CTD last year. Gonna get them rotated soon (free if you buy from Sam's) and it looks like there's a lot of wheel-weights on one of them. But on the open road, it's not been a problem. I only know 2 speeds on the interstate -- Stop and WFO. And I think I'd notice if there was a balancing problem at 90 MPH in an 8,000lb truck. I like to cruise around 80MPH. Believe it or else, I actually get better fuel economy at that speed.
The 2 Sam's I go to have been very professional and very good every time I've used them.
So far.
Rockbadchild
Elite Member
To be clear fuel rims are also aluminum alloy but they are superior quality that's why they are heavier... it depend on how much you drive lol ...probably not worth it unless you are already buying a other set. I save 3 liters per 100km with my winter tires and the weight difference is around 10/13 pound per wheel (feels significant heavier when lifting them) but I am not comparing apple to apple here since they are not the same size, my summer set are bigger so there is more air going under the truck and they are wider so more drag there too... Just different rubber compound and tread will give you different gas millage, less traction = less resistance = better millage. There is people who drive on the white line on the roads and they save a few miles a gallon by doing so.
I drive 20 000km a year I would save $1000 a year if gas is @ $1.70 per liters if I kept my winter set all year round. But again it would be probably 300/400 a year if it be the same size and same rubber for both set.
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alexpops
Platinum Member
The problem at WW/Sam's/Costco/etc. ends up being that the auto service shops are basically in the business of selling THEIR stuff, & the profit contribution is less than from selling TV's/blenders/Pot/Pan sets/etc. They want to compete on price, so they get a lot of "seconds" in their mass ordering. They also figure that since folks are using them for price as opposed to quality, anyone that can run an impact is "good enough". I worked at a Sears auto center for about six months as a kid in the 70's, & couldn't believe how bad some of their long-time wrench monkeys were. Couple that with the fact that there was constant pressure to put a new Diehard battery or Sears branded tires in everything that came in & it was a recipe for really shoddy work. I remember one time a service writer telling me to get in my car & take the 5 quarts of oil (sitting on Bob's bench) to a parking lot about a mile away. Turns out Bob, the "mechanic" (not some new kid, but a guy in his 30's who'd been there about 7 years) had done an oil change but forgot to put oil in after he drained the pan & changed the filter, & he discovered it during the test drive when the oil gauge was showing no pressure & the engine started lugging. At least he shut it down instead of trying to get back to the shop. They were more interested in covering it up than doing right by the customer. I did a lot of alignments, brakes, tune-ups, waterpumps, A/C & general repair work, & at my six month review they told me that while my work quality wasn't an issue, I wasn't selling enough Sears branded stuff & spent too much time adjusting Carbs, turning Rotors & Drums & hand packing bearings instead of selling new "like everyone else". I went to lunch, applied for & got a job at an independent shop down the street, went back & gave notice & moved my toolbox out that night.
