Can't load my tractor!
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tlbuser
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Agreed, but I would place the sub-ramps under the trailer ramps. Stagger the 2x material ends to create steps. Nice job with the pics, could we get a short 3d modeled video too?
From the OP pics., backing onto the trailer won't work. The hoe boom will hit the front edge of the trailer and tongue weight (if any) will be minimal. Chaining the ramps to the loader bucket would be time consuming too.
Diamondpilot
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I give up. You cant help when its not wanted.
Chris
Chris
KeithInSpace
Veteran Member
Straight ramps...no sub-ramp, pulling forward...the ramps need to be 20 feet long, all else being equal.
Backing on, it looks like 9 foot ramps would work with the BH clearing the trailer deck between the two ramps.
Someone else loads the stone at the quarry. I'm just talking about unloading it at the homestead using something other than a shovel.
Bedlam
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With my budget for a couple of time a year move ,
I would add onto the ramp , but if thats not possible I would use the hitch jack or another jack to raise the bed some, and then pull it up till it hits and set the outriggers out just in case. but not touching the ground then use the bucket to push it up on , pull forward. and then raise the riggers, (all safe). Chain it down and go.Ive done stuff that was far more hair raising on the 'ground' at least on a trailer I would have a more secure feeling.
I would add onto the ramp , but if thats not possible I would use the hitch jack or another jack to raise the bed some, and then pull it up till it hits and set the outriggers out just in case. but not touching the ground then use the bucket to push it up on , pull forward. and then raise the riggers, (all safe). Chain it down and go.Ive done stuff that was far more hair raising on the 'ground' at least on a trailer I would have a more secure feeling.
OP
Jay4200
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OK All - it's done. 4@ 2x10 planks made into a sub ramp, that reduce in 6" increments from 5.5' to 4' long. Blamo. I put handles on the ramps so that I can lift/carry them too. Thanks for all the suggestions and spirited debate.
JayC
JayC
Iplayfarmer
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Looking Good.
When you get a chance, flip your stinger. I think you'll find the extra few inches makes a comfortable difference too.
OP
Jay4200
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Yes, I planned to do that, but couldn't get the ball's nut (ouch) off. I figure if I could load the tractor leaving the ball 3" low, I'll just have that much more margin in my solution. I'll get a new receiver/ball as soon as I get a round Tuit.
JayC
sandman2234
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ON EDIT:
Didn't notice that the job was done, until after my post. Picture looks good. Glad it worked out all right.
Hate to disagree, but done properly (as I KNOW he would), it would indeed make a difference. The difference being the height, not the length. Simply dove-tail the ramps so it can climb sooner. Might consider adding the extra 3' at the front of the ramp, instead of at the end. That would allow you to control the angle that it hits the trailer at, when it arrives at the trailer. As long as the rear tires are on the ramps, when the ultimate height is reached, it is do-able. Seems you mentioned ramps 4' plus the 3' gives you one more than is required, at 6'. Did I miss something?
Putting a block under the landing gear and taking some of the slack out of the truck suspension might give you an inch or two at the rear of the trailer.
If you lived near here, I could fix the ramps with my welder in 59 minutes, instead of an hour. (just kidding, probably take me an hour to get set up, lol)
Dove-tailing the rear of the trailer isn't as bad as it sounds. Probably half a days work to do it, plus painting.
David from jax
Didn't notice that the job was done, until after my post. Picture looks good. Glad it worked out all right.
Hate to disagree, but done properly (as I KNOW he would), it would indeed make a difference. The difference being the height, not the length. Simply dove-tail the ramps so it can climb sooner. Might consider adding the extra 3' at the front of the ramp, instead of at the end. That would allow you to control the angle that it hits the trailer at, when it arrives at the trailer. As long as the rear tires are on the ramps, when the ultimate height is reached, it is do-able. Seems you mentioned ramps 4' plus the 3' gives you one more than is required, at 6'. Did I miss something?
Putting a block under the landing gear and taking some of the slack out of the truck suspension might give you an inch or two at the rear of the trailer.
If you lived near here, I could fix the ramps with my welder in 59 minutes, instead of an hour. (just kidding, probably take me an hour to get set up, lol)
Dove-tailing the rear of the trailer isn't as bad as it sounds. Probably half a days work to do it, plus painting.
David from jax
farmboy12
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The way to solve a problem like this is to set the ramps down so that they rest on the feet (if neccessary) and then back up the trailer so that it "pops" over the feet. Then, when loaded, drive forward, and put up.
Kyle