Car Axles used for Utility Trailers

   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #1  

andyfletcher

Bronze Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2004
Messages
65
I was wondering if anyone ever built a utility trailer, either double axle or single, and what make vehicle axle did you use and what capacity.

Thanks
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #2  
My old utility trailer was a Datsun pickup cut in half . Still had the rear end it came with . It worked fine for me and I still see it around town being towed by the new owner . My new utility trailer is still a late model Nissan pickup bed but has a straight axle so it weighs less .
Big Al
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #3  
Three quarter and one ton rearends can be used if they're floaters. That's axles where the bearings stay in place if the axle breaks.

I've made motorcycle trailers from Eldorado rear axles and I'm sure other front wheel drive car rear axles will work.

The best thing to do is use regular trailer axles. The last set of seven thousand pounders with brakes, springs, etc only cost about five to six hundred dollars for the pair. They're not that expensive and you get BRAKES!
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #4  
Andy, I made a small one from a boat trailer ,does that count?
I was at a yard sale and this fella was selling it for $40 so I put it in the back of my truck and carried it home, bought a little angle and some pressure treat and voila... /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

It works great for around the house
 

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   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #5  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Three quarter and one ton rearends can be used if they're floaters. )</font>

What would be the difference? I mean between using the rearend on a trailer vs it being on the back end of the pick up? Could you explain...Thanks
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #6  
What he means is not to use a "semi-floating" rear end which is normaly found in 1/2 ton pickup trucks. These rear ends have the weight of the vehicle supported by the drive axle itself so if it breaks the wheel will fall off(a bad thing). Full floating axles have the weight of the vehicle supported by the axle housing itself so it can carry more weight and its not affected by axle failure(wheel will not fall off). The drive axle is a separtate component. But like he says you would be better off just buying standard trailer axles with brakes. These are indeed relatively cheap, lighter, and easy to install.
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #7  
I once bought a heavy duty trailer to transport my dirtbike. The trailer was made for 3 bikes with some kind of "U" shaped channels all the way up for the wheels to ride in. Doubt it was 1/4" steel U channels, but it was close to it and was VERY stout.


What struck me as odd about the trailer (single axle as I recall) is the leaf springs did not go "forward/backward" but instead they went from one wheel to the OTHER wheel.

When I bought it, I was told that the axle used for this trailer came from a Corvette and THAT is why the leaf springs went from one wheel to the other, rather than from front to rear.

The trailer weighed a ton (figuratively speaking) always drove nicely behind my station wagon.

Richard
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #8  
There was a post here a few months ago where someone built a trailer using the rear axles off a front drive Chrysler mini van. Seemed to work fine. I don't believe he had any spring suspension on his.

Buying dedicated trailer axles with brakes would seem to be the easiest in the long run.
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers
  • Thread Starter
#9  
That sounds oK. Most factory made axles are built for 2000 lbs. A few are under this for smaller loads and are sold as sheet steel boxed kits. I'm assuming your boat is an aluminum with maybe an OB and equipment on board. That should do it. If your into a glass boat with extra weight. maybe a 3500 lb single axle would be less ware and tear on the bearings.

What I see scares me is some people are using "K" car
slung under axles for trailers, which is OK to 2000 lbs. What they do next is attach spring mounts to the "U" channel axle
which mechanicaly is prone to failure. This is because an impact imparts pressure at center of the spindle. This causes the axle to twist at the spring mounts like a swing on a tree. It may result in snapped spring brackets.

What needs to be done is to seperate the spindle plate from the spindle by cutting it away from the axle assembly. Then a straight axle needs to be welded in instead. This places the load directly in line with the spindle. Of course this is OK for someone who already has a K running gear. Better off just using a factory direct. Neat thing about K axles (or Carvan) is they come with hydraulic brakes and sometimes at the scrape yard you can get one just scrapped with new brakes. They are also rated for safety stresses, so added to the designed carrying weight calculation is momentary shock stress where the stress on the spindle is twice the load.

Anyway, I'm wandering off your post. But yeah, I wouldn't worry about it.
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #10  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The best thing to do is use regular trailer axles. The last set of seven thousand pounders with brakes, springs, etc only cost about five to six hundred dollars for the pair. They're not that expensive and you get BRAKES! )</font>

I had a 5th wheel travel trailer that had too light a suspension for the way I had it equipped, so I went to the manufacturer of the trailer in Indiana and a guy there suggested I contact a particular person at Dexter Axle in Elkhart to decide what would be best. Quite an experience for me. We sat down with his catalogs, decided on which axle tubes I wanted, which spindles (type and method of lubrication), what size brakes I wanted, which hubs, which springs, etc. He said the best thing was to just cusom build exactly what I wanted. It was about noon when we got it all worked out and I asked him how long it would take to get them, expecting a week or so, but he looked at the clock and apologetically said, "I won't be able to have them for you before noon tomorrow." /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif I went back picked them up about 1 p.m. the next day. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif He said they made about 1500 axles a day there. And while I don't remember now exactly what it cost, it was a lot less than I was expecting. The trailer came with 3500 pound axles and I went to 5200 pound axles, but used the heavier axle tube that they use on the 7000 pound axles, went from 10" diameter, 2" wide brakes to 12" diameter 2.5" wide brakes (that sure made a difference).
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #11  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Andy, I made a small one from a boat trailer ,does that count?
I was at a yard sale and this fella was selling it for $40 so I put it in the back of my truck and carried it home, bought a little angle and some pressure treat and voila... )</font>

That's a cool little trailer, nasty135!
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #12  
About 34 years ago when money was tight raising a family, I wanted a trailer to tow an old VW dune buggy to the desert. A friend gave me a pair of VW bus front spindles, hubs with drums and an old VW bug rear torsion member. I use a piece of 2” square ¼ wall tubing between the two hubs. I just clamped the tube in a vice and leveled it with a carpenter’s level. I, drilled holes to line up with the lower hole in the hub and used a big bolt to put the two together. Because the axle was level in the vice, I use the lever to level the rim vertical to the tube (after adjusting for rim run out), and measured and adjusted the tow in. When everything was perfect, I started the old buzz box welder and glued the spindle to the tube. I then cut gussets and welded them upright along the sides of the hub. I widened the torsion tube to line up with the gussets that I had drilled to match the torsion plates and put a piece of tubing between the torsion member to make it wide enough for the axle. I made new mount plates for the ends of the torsion member and bolted the torsion member to the sides of a couple of landing mats that were scrapped from the local military field. I welded a ¼ by 5 inch piece of metal to the landing mat on the outside edge. I used a section of Pontiac frame rail across the landing mat to form the front cross member and a piece of 3 inch pipe as a tongue with a gusset on each side and on top. I used another 3 inch pipe for the rear cross member. I used a piece of pipe from the axle on one side to the trailer on the other side as a sway bar. Never got around to put shocks on it and was always going to put a surge brake setup on it, just never got around to doing it. It worked great to haul the buggy.

As time went on, I built a second axle and torsion member to make it a tandem trailer. It is now over 34 years old, has a million miles on it, and has been from Canada to the tip of Baja, from San Diego to New York more than once. I have hauled buggies, garden tractors, pickups, my minivan, corvette, my CJ5 Jeep, building materials (sand, rock, cement) and on one occasion, crossed the scale at the dump with over 6000 pounds of tree stumps. (See attachment). The trailer is in my back yard now with over 4800 hundred pounds of vinyl fencing on it.

This might not be the most heavy duty trailer and I don’t recommend overloading one like it for long trips. I drive very cautiously when it is overloaded but have never felt it to be dangerous in any way unless it was the stopping power with a heavy overload. It is totally quiet behind the tow vehicle, and normally, you can not feel it behind you. In fact, I make a wide light bar so I could see it behind my motorhome so I would know “where it was”.

I have built several using the front spindles from cars/trucks to match the tow vehicle for friends. I bolt the spindle to the square tube to line up the camber and toe in and use it up side down for a lot of axle drop or right side up for a high clearance trailer. It works great for me and the torsion suspension setup works great. I built one three axle trailer using the VW bus rear torsion tube for some guys that had an off road race truck along with the 1 ton front truck spindles and a surge brake system.. They love it.

Sorry for the long post, but though it might be interesting.
 

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   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Good 'ole German technology. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif Those were the days when they were putting out A1 precision made products.

Don't know about VW running gear but I had an old International pickup "I" beam that had 5/8in ball bearings on a race. Hauled a load of cement sidewalk chunks with the 4 X 8 trailer and it didn't even flinch.

Your story emphasizes caution in building. I do the same
with mixing bolts and welds, can never know when a piece or worse, part of the running gear, will tear off and hit a kid in the car behind you.
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Did you notice any increase in gas consumption with the old Datsun pickup differential.? It would seem working the gearing in the axle would put a dent in the gas mileage.

But I suppose a small truck like that wouldn't be that noticable. Pulling a 1 ton differential would make a difference. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #15  
Hi
sounds like a nice setup I would like to see some pic's of the axles. I have a few parts I would like to turn into small trailers for yard work. and could use some Idea's. My brother built a nice tilt trailer from a k car rear axle he used it to transport a riding lawn mower.

Charlie.
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #16  
LWFrisk, is that tall green tree growing out of the stuff on the trailer is is it just in the yard behind?!?! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Peter
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #17  
Peter

That is a three year old Chinaberry in the front yard. Now that you mention it, it sort of looks like it was growing in the trailer. That load of stumps came from a Champhor tree that was growing into the sewer the pipe so it had to be removed. The trailer was loaded an hour before the photo was taken, went to the dump the next morning.

Leo
 

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   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #18  
Towing a trailer with a semi float axle is like having an older pickup with full time four wheel drive. Those gears turning in the gear oil put a lot of drag on the driveline. Actually, it robs a lot of gas mileage. For a local, around the farm, or just a trip now and then, it is fine. IF you get a 3/4 ton, cut out the center and make some caps to replace the axles with, and weld a pipe section in the center, that makes a pretty good axle that you can fill with oil if you want. But, if I had a truck I could cut in two, I would just cut it in two, weld a hitch on, and start using it. If I was building a trailer from scratch, I would not try to adapt an auto rear end under it, I would find or weld up some type of axle.
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #19  
When I was done with my Ranger parts truck I cut the frame under the cab. Pinched the rails together and bolted the coupling on. I put a hole through the frame rail for the safety chain. It rolls very easily and tows beautifully. The only issue is the balance is very neutral so you have to be careful to get sufficient tongue weight.
 
   / Car Axles used for Utility Trailers #20  
I built a trailer for riding the grandkids around the woods. I used the rear suspension from an old Saab 99. I made the rails out of treated 6X6's and the rest from Hemlock. It held up for about 20 years and when the hemlock started to rot, I ripped it off, the rails were still fine and just rebuilt it about 3 years ago. It's good for another 20 years.
 

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