Car Axles used for Utility Trailers

[ultrarunner]

I've got two utility trailers that each use a 1828-31 Model A Ford Front Axles...

 

[jimmer2880]

Maybe it's just me. But, I can go buy a 5,000 lb, 4" drop axle, springs and spindles for about $200.00 from my local trailer supply. With that, everything is new, including the bearings, races, etc. When I work on something, I want it to be as long as possible before I work on it again. For $200.00, why bother with a junkyard axle?

Edit... maybe I should say that I DID buy that axle a couple years ago when I built my trailer. I have not checked prices recently.

 

[DavidVT]

My old boss was building car haulers for side money. He just bought used mobile home axles that were used for one delivery. I think a set were maybe $100. He did this several times before I left that job.

 

[tony123]

This is a timely thread for me to read. I just picked this old thing out of a farmers yard for $40. Put $20 of tires on it and $20 of lights. Seems to work great, although, as mentioned it is neutral in weight balance and I need more tongue weight.

I use it for mulch, compost, etc. on the highway (back roads only), and around the house. When I put the lights on, I discovered a stamp behind the lights. It's a '59 Ford.

Ya'll were talking above my head with all the "floating" this and that stuff. But I don't think this is the preferred setup? And, I think the differential is in there spinning around? I can pull it easily by hand though, so can't be that much drag.

Here's some photos of the underside. Can anyone shed some light on what type of axle it is? Thanks.

 

[mopacman]

That is a half ton ford axle that has been put in up side down. The brakes have been removed and proble the pinnion gear has been removed also. It will hall any thing that the tires will take. Keep the load forward an it will make a good trailer. I have a lot of good trailers and for $40 I would have bought it also.........Larry

 

[MikeD74T]

Last fall I built a trailer for a WoodMizer sawmill from a Dodge Caravan rear end. Came with springs, wheels, shocks,& good tires for $65. It was all we needed for the sawmill. The entire brake backing plates/drums are bolted & easily removed or you could use a surge brake hitch to activate them. Could have used smaller wheels/tires but with bigger tires the mill moves easily over rough/soft ground by hand. Let your intended use dictate the axle strength & type. Overbuilt is almost as bad as underbuilt (not counting the part about killing a kid in another car). MikeD74T

 

[Nat]

Tony 123, I would venture to say that is a pre 1954 chevy rear axle. I'm quessing that because of the enclosed driveshaft, but it could also be a same vintage car GM car rear they also had an enclosed driveshaft. Later, Nat

 

[bjr]

I have a weird thing going for 4" x 4" lug bolt rear small car rear axles. They usually have a 4 bolt flange where they connect to the car. I build yard trailers and use 22x11x8 atv tires and wheels on them. I build weed sprayers and anything that requires wheels from wrecking yard car axles. It's gettin' spendy now the wrecking yard guy ask for $50 for a set that included some crappy wheels and tires though. My BIY trailers are all field/yard trailers not for hiway use. bjr

 

[firefighter9208]

OK. Here's the scoop on a floating vs. non floating rear end.

On a floating rear end (8.8 ford or chevy 1/2 ton) the axles are held in by c-clips. These retaining clips are on the inboard end of the axle (at the differential). If the axle breaks there is nothing to hold it in the housing and you will loose the axle and wheel and tire. Look at the last picture and you'll see where the clip goes onto the end of the axle to retain it.
http://members.cox.net/quanno/ford88.html

On a non floating rear end (Ford 9" or Dana 60) the axles are held in by a retaining plate outside of the wheel bearing. There are four bolts that retain the axle. If you break an axle you loose nothing. That's why these rear ends are so popular with the drag racing and off road crowds. Look at this picture and you'll see the retaining flange and bolts that hold the axle in. Much stronger!!
Rear Shaft pictures from cars photos on webshots

Chris

 

[RobS]

OK. Here's the scoop on a floating vs. non floating rear end.

On a floating rear end (8.8 ford or chevy 1/2 ton) the axles are held in by c-clips. These retaining clips are on the inboard end of the axle (at the differential). If the axle breaks there is nothing to hold it in the housing and you will loose the axle and wheel and tire. Look at the last picture and you'll see where the clip goes onto the end of the axle to retain it.
http://members.cox.net/quanno/ford88.html

On a non floating rear end (Ford 9" or Dana 60) the axles are held in by a retaining plate outside of the wheel bearing. There are four bolts that retain the axle. If you break an axle you loose nothing. That's why these rear ends are so popular with the drag racing and off road crowds. Look at this picture and you'll see the retaining flange and bolts that hold the axle in. Much stronger!!
Rear Shaft pictures from cars photos on webshots

Chris

The other big difference is the bearings themselves. On the semi-floating there is only one bearing out at the wheel end. The other bearing for that side of the axle is the diff.

On the full floater, there are two complete bearings at the wheel end, one at each side of the hub. Much sturdier construction.

Hey Chris, I just looked at the pics you posted and I do not believe that second set is a full floater. It just has a different way to keep the axle shaft in place. On a Dana 80 full floater there is a big hub that sticks out beyond the wheel mounting face and the axle shaft bolts to that hub with eight external bolts. You can remove those bolts, pull the axle shaft and the wheel will still support a load and rotate freely. I can't tell from the pic but it looks like there is still only one bearing at the wheel end of that axle shaft?

You know, one of these days I'm going to learn to read. You said non-floater and I was thinking full-floater. Sorry about that.

 

[firefighter9208]

Rob,

Yeah the second picture is of a Dynatrac in a 4WD but it's basically like a Ford 9" rear end but without the removeable pumpkin.

Chris

 

[LBrown59]

*****

You need to throw that shovel away and get a Load Handler for this trailer.

 

[tony123]

What's that? one of those roll up floor dohickies? Not a bad idea? anything to keep that shovel in the garage! Actually, I'm hoping that a FEL is in the cards this year. If so, that shovel just might get rusty.

 

[LBrown59]

What's that? one of those roll up floor dohickies? Not a bad idea? anything to keep that shovel in the garage! Actually, I'm hoping that a FEL is in the cards this year. If so, that shovel just might get rusty.

Yep .
I bought one for my little Dodge D-50 pickup .
Best 84 bucks i ever spent.

 

[scgargoyle]

I make my own axles out of car parts. I get spindles, hubs, and wheels from AMC cars at the junkyard (they're getting hard to find!). The AMC spindles bolt on. I weld a 1/2" plate onto a 2" square tube, with however much drop I desire (usually 4"), then bolt the spindles on. I've hauled a 3500# machine, plus the weight of the trailer without any problems. Bear in mind, I'm a skilled machinist and welder. If you can get the parts cheap enough, and like to make stuff, it's worthwhile. I can also make the axle to the exact length I want, instead of building the trailer around what's available. You can buy a similar axle with hubs and springs for $250 or so, so it's barely worth it unless money is an issue. In fact, it's pretty hard to build a trailer for much less than you can buy one, unless your labor is free. I like to build my own, both because I like to build stuff, and I can make it the exact size and type I want. Many commercially made trailers I look at are made of angle iron, and seem very flimsy. If you stand on one corner, they twist a lot. I use 4" channel all around. They don't move!

 

[montanaman]

I make my own axles out of car parts. I get spindles, hubs, and wheels from AMC cars at the junkyard (they're getting hard to find!). The AMC spindles bolt on. I weld a 1/2" plate onto a 2" square tube, with however much drop I desire (usually 4"), then bolt the spindles on. I've hauled a 3500# machine, plus the weight of the trailer without any problems. Bear in mind, I'm a skilled machinist and welder. If you can get the parts cheap enough, and like to make stuff, it's worthwhile. I can also make the axle to the exact length I want, instead of building the trailer around what's available. You can buy a similar axle with hubs and springs for $250 or so, so it's barely worth it unless money is an issue. In fact, it's pretty hard to build a trailer for much less than you can buy one, unless your labor is free. I like to build my own, both because I like to build stuff, and I can make it the exact size and type I want. Many commercially made trailers I look at are made of angle iron, and seem very flimsy. If you stand on one corner, they twist a lot. I use 4" channel all around. They don't move!

Another good place to find the bolt on stuff is from old four wheel drive trucks. The straight axle trucks had spindles that bolted on and the bearings were pretty large because the axle shaft had to fit through the hollow spindle. You could get them in 5, 6, or 8 bolt depending on the brand.

You can either grease the bearings and put the lock out hubs back on, or build a bolt on plate to seal the front of the rotor with a pipe plug in it and fill it with gear lube.

I've wanted to use four of these to build some nice sturdy walking beams for an off road dump trailer but my project list is already much longer than I will live to see!!

Ken

 

[jimmer2880]

.... If you stand on one corner, they twist a lot. I use 4" channel all around. They don't move!

When I made my 6.5' wide x 10' long, That's what I did. 4" C channel all the way around. 2"x2"x1/8" angle railing around the top. I also recessed all lighting for WHEN they get hit by either a gator, or a snow bank. That makes one stout trailer.

I have as much into it in materials as I could have bought one for. But, I believe I have twice the trailer. I had 2 tons of mulch on my trailer. Then, drove our MF 1020 onto the trailer while I was unloading (granted, the entire weight of the tractor wasn't on the trailer, but a good bit was)

 

[scgargoyle]

I was looking at trailers at Northern Tool yesterday. Yes, they were pretty reasonable, but FLIMSY! They had a 5X8 with no floor or sides (just a frame on wheels) for only $319, but it was made out of thin 1-1/2" angle. Some of them were already twisted out of shape. A similar trailer with a floor, made out of 3" channel, was $1300. You get what you pay for. I'll have about $400 in a 5X8 made out of 3" channel. I can also put on all the extras, such as armored lights, and wiring conduit.

 

[jimmer2880]

If I remember correctly (wich, is really a stretch)... I had close to $600 in my 6.5x10 including paint, lights, jack, coupler and junkyard trailer wheels/tires. Paint alone was $200.00

 

[scgargoyle]

That's some fancy paint! I'm more of a Rustoleum type of guy.