Car lift problem

[leveled]

Yep. Had mine apart a few years ago.

Yes i am working alone too... I used a strap to hold it together, then I unbolted it and then pulled it down while removing the strap.

 

[leveled]

I took his posts to refer that the lift works fine if he starts it with it completely down or if he pushes the down lever as he starts it???

Both ways work. sorry for the confusion.

 

[ovrszd]

So we would be correct to assume the pump isn't locked up?

It's more likely that the motor won't start the pump if there's any kind of load on it?

 

[leveled]

The motor seems OK. Do not try to run the motor for more then 2 seconds if it will not start. There is no thermal shut off.
60Amps by 230Volts generates more than 10.000 Watts in heat in a blocked motor! ( 30.000 BTU per hr.)

If the motor runs OK when you hold the hydraulic lever in the "lower" position, than the pump should be OK. Check the hose to the cylinder for pinched or kinks, check steel cables, sheaves, and other mechanical. It looks to me that something is preventing the oil to flow to the cylinder or something prevents the cylinder from extending.

My mechanic thought the hose could be bad too. How would I test that? Thanks for the help everyone.

 

[ovrszd]

Hmmmm.... I'll have to think about that a bit.

 

[BertZegers]

My mechanic thought the hose could be bad too. How would I test that? Thanks for the help everyone.

Loosen the connection (do not take it apart) on the pump end of the hose en see if oil is pushed out when running the motor/pump. Then do the same at the cylinder end of the hose.

Be careful for the pressurized oil, you could wrap a transparent plastic bag around the coupling to prevent oil spraying on you.

 

[metalbender]

Just throwing something out here. Is there a weight limit switch in the system?

 

[aczlan]

No safety switch because it is a 4 post lift. In the magnet switch it is bypassed. The cables just max out.

Is there a mechanical lock to hold it up if something fails with the cables and or the hydraulics?
If so, can you lower the car to be held by the mechanical lock before starting the motor to raise it higher (as a workaround)?

Aaron Z

 

[BertZegers]

Loosen the connection (do not take it apart) on the pump end of the hose en see if oil is pushed out when running the motor/pump. Then do the same at the cylinder end of the hose.

Be careful for the pressurized oil, you could wrap a transparent plastic bag around the coupling to prevent oil spraying on you.

Another thought; there must be a "one way valve" close to the lever, I think, to prevent the platforms from lowering once you stop the motor/pump. If this valve is stuck in the closed position, than the oil can't leave the pump.
I would be behind one of the caps.

 

[mike48130]

Another thought; there must be a "one way valve" close to the lever, I think, to prevent the platforms from lowering once you stop the motor/pump. If this valve is stuck in the closed position, than the oil can't leave the pump.
I would be behind one of the caps.

This seems to make sense, there should be a check valve.

 

[aczlan]

This seems to make sense, there should be a check valve.

I believe that it's built into the aluminum block on the end of the pump.

Aaron Z

 

[mike48130]

Maybe attached diagram will help you out. View attachment P1000 Series Parts.pdf

 

[ovrszd]

Is there a mechanical lock to hold it up if something fails with the cables and or the hydraulics?
If so, can you lower the car to be held by the mechanical lock before starting the motor to raise it higher (as a workaround)?

Aaron Z

Yes. They vary depending on brand. I always lower the load until the mechanical lock relieves pressure from the system before going under a vehicle. Then I am required to lift the vehicle slightly to release the mechanical lock before lowering to the ground. So, in that situation, my pump is always starting with no load.

I've never tried leaving the load on the hydraulic system to see if it drifts downward. My Jeep is parked on it now. I'll lift it without engaging the lock and let it sit there for awhile to see if it drifts downward.

 

[leveled]

Maybe attached diagram will help you out. View attachment 642769

Thank you, I will try to check the check valve today. Thanks everyone for all the help. I wish the manufacture would call back, they said 24 to 48 hrs. Its about 48 hrs now.

 

[ovrszd]

Held my Jeep for an hour without being locked, no drift.

 

[leveled]

Held my Jeep for an hour without being locked, no drift.

Can you put the 9540 on your lift? I am kinda jealous of your tractor, that size is what I would like to trade my MX5100 for. :thumbsup:

 

[ovrszd]

Can you put the 9540 on your lift? I am kinda jealous of your tractor, that size is what I would like to trade my MX5100 for. :thumbsup:

It would fit. I've never done so. It's easy to get under on a creeper.

I've had my Ford on it with no problems.

I think my Diesel SD weighs right around 7K. Handles it with no problems. My lift is "Forward" brand. It's an old lift that uses horizontal cylinder and chains.

 

[leveled]

I took out the check valve and the release valve, and they both appear to look and function correctly. I still have not heard back from the manufacture. They are suppose to call me by the end of today.

 

[3Ts]

Have you had any hoses off for any reason and a few days later put them back on? I had a situation where a wasp plugged up a hose far enough in that I didn't see it. The system did not work. Took awhile to find it.

 

[leveled]

Have you had any hoses off for any reason and a few days later put them back on? I had a situation where a wasp plugged up a hose far enough in that I didn't see it. The system did not work. Took awhile to find it.

No, I have not. But the way the hose was originally ran, I question if it may have kinked up or internally collapsed. Here is a video since the manufacture wanted a video. I posted it up on YouTube. I am a star now.... first video ever. :thumbsup: