Car lift problem

[leveled]

I have had the motor into a reputable shop and they said they load tested and replaced the start switch in the motor. i personally think the motor was fine and they just charged me anyway. After that did not fix it, I also went into another motor shop and the owner told me that he would bet it is not the motor and is the pump. I had them recheck the capacitor. The lift is on a dedicated circuit, and I have checked voltage many different ways and at all possible places, bypassed the switch etc.. I have checked the cables and pulleys and do not see a issue. I have a friend coming over tonight, I will do the current test and voltage again and take the pump off and check it out. Thanks again for all the help.

 

[ovrszd]

A small screwdriver through the openings should turn the fan. No more than a little force.

My motor is completely enclosed, as is his, no way to turn the motor by hand without removing it from the pump assembly.

 

[ovrszd]

Silly question but are you sure you are getting 220/240 volts to the motor or could 1 leg be shorted or broken or possibly only receiving back feed voltage from another piece of equipment

That was my first guess Frank. One leg is bad. I'm not smart enough to know whether that possibility has been eliminated.

 

[ovrszd]

Don't ever feel like you are letting us down leveled. We don't have any skin in this. We are just all curious about the solution.

I'm sticking with my hunch that it's not mechanical.

 

[electrycmonk]

My word what a Mystery.

So to my understanding from reading it all:
1) The wire from the breaker box to the motor has been checked for good & secure contacts for all 3 wires & ground?
2) the cables and cylinders are ann good for ease of movement and fluid flow as lift will raise and lower from ground to max height.
3) the manual relief valve works as thats the "Cheater method" to get motor to start.
4) the hose is tested with liquid & PSI Air to be no restrictions.
5) the pump, filter (in line, inside the tank?), hose and main block are all working correctly.
6) the check valve has it been swapped out? (I can't find were it was swapped out in thread)
7) the plate on the motor is a wash for FLA.

**I have a question*** is there any other info on the motor that one of us could start web searching to do image comparison? Reason being, this is now I have sleuth-ed out a few things like specs of an old air compressor motor and pump i have. I also was about to figure out a few things with parts of vehicles by seeing very good pictures of "X" part so I can look it up with image searches.

***and another question****
8) has it been validated that it has a pair Start & Run Cap's or not? I do recall the pics and the video didn't look to be in the right angle from memory to show single or dual cap's?

***and a 3rd***
9) parts diagram/breakdown. I know one of the users shared a PDF of a "Rotary brand" system disassembled. Have you tried to find other brands diagrams to see IF there is a similarity or not?

-- where this question is coming from relates to my current auto lift related research that has hit a brickwall (for me)....
I found an old Rotary PAL-5e mid raising lift for sale without a pump setup and a dead cylinder. I also found a old "no name" model short raise list that needs a nose but has everything else.

I'm trying to figure out how to make the motor-pump assembly allow me to work both lifts, one at a time - in the short term to get all the kinks worked out... I have not bought either yet as I'm trying to figure out the specs of the unknown short lift.... still!

So IF you could post some good detail pics of the motor plaque so we can see any details then - maybe someone will findout a breadcrumb trail to the specs of the 220VAC motor?

(shrugs) g'night y'all.

 

[Frank Surber]

And when all is said and done you may find that a rubber hose has ballooned in side. An embolism inside of a rubber hose can cause the symptoms you are describing. This is usually a small tear in the liner right at the fittings. When there is no pressure at start up the lift will go up just fine even as it raises the vehicle but once you stop the back pressure from the cylinder would cause the embolism to balloon and constrict the flow. Depending on which end or where the liner had a tear in it lowering the loaded lift may not be effected as the flow is metered by a restrictor valve.
Another question can you allow the lift to set on the safety locks and start the motor with no problems? Many lift manufactures used to add a label on the motor stating to allow the lift to settle onto the locks before starting the motor to prevent burning it out

 

[electrycmonk]

And when all is said and done you may find that a rubber hose has ballooned in side. An embolism inside of a rubber hose can cause the symptoms you are describing. This is usually a small tear in the liner right at the fittings. When there is no pressure at start up the lift will go up just fine even as it raises the vehicle but once you stop the back pressure from the cylinder would cause the embolism to balloon and constrict the flow. Depending on which end or where the liner had a tear in it lowering the loaded lift may not be effected as the flow is metered by a restrictor valve.
Another question can you allow the lift to set on the safety locks and start the motor with no problems? Many lift manufactures used to add a label on the motor stating to allow the lift to settle onto the locks before starting the motor to prevent burning it out

Geez-o-pete. Frank that is a very good one. I can very easily see something like that happening on older hoses. A similar thing (external embolism/blister) has happened to radiator hoses in the past; not just to me personally. I have seen this idea also on the tire/innertube of a bicycle growing up as well. Embolism, the internal style.