Did you check the fuse for the fan, When I first got my 425 the fuse blowed. I put the next size larger fuse in it, the wire going to the fan fuse was tight and had a loose connection at the fuse. Fixed that and haven't had any more problems since.ldabe said:
Carb problems
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Bob,
I am going to try and take a pic also to post very soon, I am not sure if I am explaining it right.
Toy,
Yes, I did check the fuse, there is an inline 10 just before the "thermal relay".
Thanks for the input, if you (or anyone) thinks of anything else, or has any other suggestings please feel free to jump right in.
Btw, what did you think of the price(s) for service, and the wait?
Thanks again everybody,
Abe.
I am going to try and take a pic also to post very soon, I am not sure if I am explaining it right.
Toy,
Yes, I did check the fuse, there is an inline 10 just before the "thermal relay".
Thanks for the input, if you (or anyone) thinks of anything else, or has any other suggestings please feel free to jump right in.
Btw, what did you think of the price(s) for service, and the wait?
Thanks again everybody,
Abe.
BobRip
Elite Member
ldabe said:
Prices seem kinda of high, but what do I know, I do the work myself. The wait was too long.
You are missing a wire on the thermal switch, right?
J_J
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Abe,
I also think the cost was excessive. Sounds like they kept replacing parts until it sort of ran good. Did they ever explain what the problem was, and did you get your old parts back. Do you know if they actually did what they said they did? You could have bought a new carb for that price. I doubt if it was the valves. Sounds like a fuel problem. I wonder if they checked the fuel pressure? How about debris in the tank. Someone else had a problem with trash and plastic pieces in the tank clogging the flow. They changed out the coils for what reason. I think they took advantage of you in time and money.
I also think the cost was excessive. Sounds like they kept replacing parts until it sort of ran good. Did they ever explain what the problem was, and did you get your old parts back. Do you know if they actually did what they said they did? You could have bought a new carb for that price. I doubt if it was the valves. Sounds like a fuel problem. I wonder if they checked the fuel pressure? How about debris in the tank. Someone else had a problem with trash and plastic pieces in the tank clogging the flow. They changed out the coils for what reason. I think they took advantage of you in time and money.
J_J said:
JJ, no I did not get the old parts (my mistake) and I agree with you that I don't believe it was the valves either. When the service guy first listened to the popping, he mentioned something about a "key", I think he called it a "weaver key" but don't quote me on that.
As for the coils, the way I understood it, one was bad (and I thought that was what was causing the popping...but I may have misunderstood) and the other coil was changed since they were already changing the one, they would not have take the engine back out if the other happened to go bad a little down the road (thats the way I understood there reasoning).
I am still confused about the fan not running, and only one wire to the "thermal relay".
I am going to try and attached some pics of the "thermal relay" and the "wiring diagram".
Thanks again guys.
ldabe said:
Ok guys, where are ya at?
Can anyone tell me if they have two wires (one on each side / terminal) of the "thermal relay" that tells the oil cooler fan to come on? (If you look at the wire diagram, it looks like to me that there should be two wires, one on each terminal, one that comes from the fan and then on the other side one that goes to??? ... I am guessing to a power source.)
There are other wires not connected to anything, but none has the femal connector that makes connection with the terminal on the relay.
Also, if the "thermal relay" is possibly bad (I take it that it is just a heat sensor) can I take off the wire coming from the fan, and splice/connect/jumper to another source wire to get the fan running...and if so, what wire would you suggest?
Thanks in advance for all responses.
Btw, what does 'SO #14-5' mean on the wire diagram?
woodlandfarms
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I don't have your tractor, but based on your picture and your wiring diagram you do not have a wire running to something. Because of the fuse placement (it should be between the battery and the relay) it looks like the wire to the fan is gone. A simple fix I am sure.
Do you have a volt meter? You can double check your relay is working by warming the PT up and placing one meter probe on the relay and another on a ground. Should give you 12 volts when warm (none when cold).
I am a bit more concerned that you said there are a bunch of wires not running anywhere. Again, using your volt meter and setting it to ready ohms (or circuit if it is a good meter) you should be able to quickly track down the wires form what they came from.
Wiring is pretty simple on these (actually kinda more complicated than they should be, but still quite simple).
I would track back the wires from the fan. It may be one of those not connected (or both, one should be ground and one should be hot).
Carl
Do you have a volt meter? You can double check your relay is working by warming the PT up and placing one meter probe on the relay and another on a ground. Should give you 12 volts when warm (none when cold).
I am a bit more concerned that you said there are a bunch of wires not running anywhere. Again, using your volt meter and setting it to ready ohms (or circuit if it is a good meter) you should be able to quickly track down the wires form what they came from.
Wiring is pretty simple on these (actually kinda more complicated than they should be, but still quite simple).
I would track back the wires from the fan. It may be one of those not connected (or both, one should be ground and one should be hot).
Carl
woodlandfarms
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OK... re-read your post. The idea of a thermal relay is nice because engines and hydraulics like a particular temperature. If you live in a cold weather state you do not want your fan to come on too soon. If your relay is shot, (I said above that how to check it - Take a volt meter and test the side with the fuse (red lead of meter on connector, black lead on a good ground or the metal of the tractor without paint on it). If you have 12 volts with the key on check the other side of the relay the same way with the engine off - cold - it should read 0 volts. then run the tractor and warm it up, check the other side of the relay the same way and see if you have 12 (12 to 15 volts) on that side. This shows that the relay is working (there are other ways but this a simple way for beginners).
If you do, then the relay is good.
Next, follow the wires back from your fan. One wire should be attached to the a common ground (screwed to the metal of the tractor somewhere). The other wire should be heading to the relay. I am not sure why your wiring is funky (it looks like someone has played with it as you have the fuse in line where your wiring diagram says there is not one) but whatever. Hook it to the relay.
One other thing is that the hot wire from the ignition switch could be the disconnected one. Maybe someone bypassed your relay already.
Finally, of course you do not need the relay, but I would suggest a switch for the reasons above. The thermal relay just makes the whole cooling process a bit more idiot proof. If you live in a warm weather area then you could wire the fan directly to the ignition switch (actually, I would use a relay which I can describe to you how to do) Using a relay will prevent too many amps from going through your ignition switch an wearing it out prematurely.
We can discuss this here if you want or you can private IM me...
Carl
If you do, then the relay is good.
Next, follow the wires back from your fan. One wire should be attached to the a common ground (screwed to the metal of the tractor somewhere). The other wire should be heading to the relay. I am not sure why your wiring is funky (it looks like someone has played with it as you have the fuse in line where your wiring diagram says there is not one) but whatever. Hook it to the relay.
One other thing is that the hot wire from the ignition switch could be the disconnected one. Maybe someone bypassed your relay already.
Finally, of course you do not need the relay, but I would suggest a switch for the reasons above. The thermal relay just makes the whole cooling process a bit more idiot proof. If you live in a warm weather area then you could wire the fan directly to the ignition switch (actually, I would use a relay which I can describe to you how to do) Using a relay will prevent too many amps from going through your ignition switch an wearing it out prematurely.
We can discuss this here if you want or you can private IM me...
Carl
woodlandfarms said:
Carl,
There are two wires coming from the fan, one goes to the fuse, and then continues to the relay. The other one goes to a bolt on the tractor for ground.
As for checking the relay using an ohm meter, shouldn't I go across the terminals of the relay (when cold shouldn't have anything) and then when hot I would have a change.
Does this sound anywhere close, or am I missing your point all together?
Ok, JUST SAW your second post, and I am going to go try some of your suggestion.
I will be back in a while. Hopefully ;~)