Carb problems

[woodlandfarms]

Glad you found the wire. Just change out the spade... No need to complicate the system with a relay. You are not pulling a lot of power with this one fan. I just offered it up if you had to go do some serious wiring or went with a larger fan.

Now, the way i would be wrong is if other 425 owners said to swap go with a relay. I don't know your system so definitly ask the experts.

Carl

 

[DHS]

Dale, thanks for the input.

Why do you think Power Trac puts the fuse on the wire going to the fan?
(At least I think it is Power Trac, since yours is just like mine. In fact, I need to go back and look at Bob's pics, and see if he has a fuse on the fan side also.)

You have to decide to place the fuse somewhere. The main fuse still protects the entire electrical system. So there is not a lack of protection. Perhaps the PT engineers felt there is more of a probability of an electrical problem with the fan than the thermostat. If the fan causes a short to ground the fan fuse blows and the rest of the tractor continues to run. If the thermostat causes a short to ground the main fuse blows and everything shuts down.

It will not cause any problems as is and I don't intend to change mine.

Dale

 

[Bob999]

I suspect that the mismatch on the fastener on the white wire and the thermal relay occurs because there is a missing section of wire--that has a connector to match the white wire on one end and a connector to match the thermal relay on the other.

 

[BobRip]

Bob, Carl, and Bill,


So, I am thinking I will change the connect on the white wire to a push on spade and put onto the other side of the thermal relay.

This is a good idea -BobRip
-------------------------------------
Does anyone see a problem with this? No - Go for it. -BobRip
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Bob...do you have a fuse on the fan side? - Yes, I have changed the fuse holder now, but the fuse has always been there. - BobRip

all.

Sounds like you have got it figured out. I would not add a relay, but the thermal switch will probably fail eventually.
I have thought of adding a fan operating light on the control console since this area has several failure modes and you may not notice if for awhile. The fuse can blow, fan fail, wire break, etc. I would like something that monitors fan current flow. I have not figured out how to do this, but you could tap into the wire at the ignition switch and monitor the current with a shunt. A "cold" light could be put across the thermal relay. The light would light when the switch was open (cold) and go off when it reached temperature and closed. If the fan was open then the light would not come on. If the fuse was blown the light would not come on. If the switch never closed the light would stay on. This seams to cover everything. Did I miss something? Oh, if the fan or fuse failed after the thermal switch closed then you would not notice the failure. Maybe a cold and hot light.

 

[Keoke]

Idabe, the relay is really a bi-metallic temp switch. At a given temp it bends to close the circuit from power source (fused wire) to fan motor which has it's own gnd lead. From the pic it looks like you are missing the wire going from thermal sw to power fan mtr. When the folks did the coil change and other work the may have simply left it off.

cheers,

 

[BobRip]

I suspect that the mismatch on the fastener on the white wire and the thermal relay occurs because there is a missing section of wire--that has a connector to match the white wire on one end and a connector to match the thermal relay on the other.

I think you repair guy broke the wire (or found it broken), put the wrong connector on it and then found it would not connect. Does the connector look new? Just speculating of course.

 

[ldabe]

I think you repair guy broke the wire (or found it broken), put the wrong connector on it and then found it would not connect. Does the connector look new? Just speculating of course.

Well,
It could be, but I am not gonna say it is for sure.
Anyway, the right connector is on and all is well.
I did call the place and let them know what had happened.
They did not seem to concerned, in my opinion.
Too bad!
With that service center being that close, I was hoping it would be a place I could take it to again. But, I don't think so.
I will do most of the work on it myself, but when it comes to taking the engine apart, I am not real comfortable with that.
There is a great auto mech. place that I have a good report with, maybe I'll ask them if they have ever worked on these type of engines for future reference or problems.

JJ,
I think the popping had something to do with the ignition coil.

You all take care, and I really appreciate this forum.

Thanks again,
Abe.

 

[J_J]

Dale, thanks for the input.

Why do you think Power Trac puts the fuse on the wire going to the fan?
(At least I think it is Power Trac, since yours is just like mine. In fact, I need to go back and look at Bob's pics, and see if he has a fuse on the fan side also.)

You may have this fixed already, but I thought I would add a little more. Fuses are usually added before the item that you want to protect. So therefore, there should be a fuse in line with the wire going to the
B+ side of the fan, so that if the fan were to short out, the fuse would blow. If you wanted to bypass the thermal switch, you would have the fan come on at the same time as power is applied to the system. The thermal is there to allow the oil to heat up to its operating temperature, especially in northern climates. Hydraulics work best if kept inside of the operating parameters for that oil. You have probably noticed that the hydraulics work better when you first start out, except when extremely cold. You have also noticed that you lose some efficiency when the oil is hot.

I have already changed out my fan for a junkyard fan at a cost of $15.00.