Carbide chainsaw chains

[MossRoad]

Why are you dulling chains so quickly? Cutting in the dirt? Well dont. Cut flush then cut a checkered pattern in the clean wood of the stump so it holds water. Helps them rot quicker. Willow is hardly a hard wood.

Willow is a hardwood, but it's not a hard wood. :laughing: Kinda silly, but true.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I would guess that the cost of the diamond sharpening wheel will be my next search. I'd rather sharpen myself rather than ship off to be sharpened. That could get spendy.

DMT Diamond Chainsaw File

 

[atsah]

Yes they have hand files now but didn't when I bought mine. The carbide chains work well, if you don't grab rocks with it, it will go all day into dirty hardwood without filing. They are ten times better than an average chain, not as aggressive but continue to cut well after running dirt through it..

I haven't hit rocks with it, I try not to use a chainsaw to cut rocks..

 

[ArlyA]

Oh gee, an actual user report. :thumbsup: thanks!

Yes they have hand files now but didn't when I bought mine. The carbide chains work well, if you don't grab rocks with it, it will go all day into dirty hardwood without filing. They are ten times better than an average chain, not as aggressive but continue to cut well after running dirt through it..

I haven't hit rocks with it, I try not to use a chainsaw to cut rocks..

 

[Doofy]

Our trees are dirty with wind-blown silt and volcanic ash. Any chain that will give a longer cutting time between sharpening would be a great advantage.

 

[atsah]

I just wish they had hand files when they first came out, I like filing by hand and the wheel cost me a lot..

 

[Doofy]

From what I've read, you more or less just polish the carbide instead of really grinding. Guess, I will find out.

 

[atsah]

That's true..

 

[Doofy]

One more question: can I remove 1 Drive Link? I need a 3/8pitch, .50ga, 59 DL chain but the closest I can find has 60 drive links.

 

[atsah]

I don't see why not.. Did you check,

Chainsaws

 

[Industrial Toys]

Can't help you. I only have a Diamond blade on my hydraulic hand held saw. That would cut the stone, no problem. Maybe not the wood, so problem.

 

[Doofy]

I don't see why not..

Thanks Mark

 

[MossRoad]

This one says 10X longer....

 

[atsah]

Realistically 5-6 times longer..

 

[atsah]

Thanks Mark

No sweat...

 

[Doofy]

This one says 10X longer....

That was impressive.

 

[JohnMacca]

Sorry I'm a bit late to this thread, but I can relate my experience with a carbide tipped chain.

I cut dry hardwood for firewood, mainly ironbark and grey box (the two common eucalyptus types in my area). Greybox, in particular, is very hard on a chain. You have to touch up the chain every tank of fuel - 2 or 3 file strokes. If you don't, you will be trying to burn your way through before the next tank is done. This is with clean logs and not touching the bar onto the ground.

I bought a Stihl 325 carbide tipped chain for my 231 after seeing the Stihl clip linked above. (I use a 16" bar to buck logs up to say 12-13". For anything bigger, I have a 391 and 20" bar, but the wear on the chain is the same).

The end result was disapointing simply because of the difficulty in sharpening it. It started off fine and certainly cut well for a lot longer, but then you find yourself slowly putting up with a 2/3 sharp chain, then a 1/2 sharp one, then a 1/3 sharp one ........... You get past the point where you would have sharpened a normal chain and been back to full efficiency.

I have a bench top electric grinder (that I rarely use), but a diamond wheel for it was pricey. The local Stihl dealer quoted me $40 for a sharpen, which I grudgingly paid. When I used the chain next time, it was nowhere near as good as new - so I used it until it was too dull and that was the end of that experiment.

If you could sharpen it yourself when it started to dull, then you can definitely cut far longer between sharpens than a normal chain. For me, it was far easier (and cheaper) to revert to the simple touch up each tank.

 

[Doofy]

Sorry I'm a bit late to this thread, but I can relate my experience with a carbide tipped chain.

I cut dry hardwood for firewood, mainly ironbark and grey box (the two common eucalyptus types in my area). Greybox, in particular, is very hard on a chain. You have to touch up the chain every tank of fuel - 2 or 3 file strokes. If you don't, you will be trying to burn your way through before the next tank is done. This is with clean logs and not touching the bar onto the ground.

I bought a Stihl 325 carbide tipped chain for my 231 after seeing the Stihl clip linked above. (I use a 16" bar to buck logs up to say 12-13". For anything bigger, I have a 391 and 20" bar, but the wear on the chain is the same).

The end result was disapointing simply because of the difficulty in sharpening it. It started off fine and certainly cut well for a lot longer, but then you find yourself slowly putting up with a 2/3 sharp chain, then a 1/2 sharp one, then a 1/3 sharp one ........... You get past the point where you would have sharpened a normal chain and been back to full efficiency.

I have a bench top electric grinder (that I rarely use), but a diamond wheel for it was pricey. The local Stihl dealer quoted me $40 for a sharpen, which I grudgingly paid. When I used the chain next time, it was nowhere near as good as new - so I used it until it was too dull and that was the end of that experiment.

If you could sharpen it yourself when it started to dull, then you can definitely cut far longer between sharpens than a normal chain. For me, it was far easier (and cheaper) to revert to the simple touch up each tank.

Thanks for your real life experience with the carbide chain. We have no real hardwoods but I may hit dirt at times. Still debating.

 

[nyone]

Touching up a chain every tank or two of gas is prety normal on hardwood. You get any kind of dirt on the logs or well rotted sections and you may need to more.

I like a really sharp chain so have learned what not to cut through and how to hand file. I find that a hand file get the tooth sharper and stays sharper longer. Could be that the tooth never heats up like a electric grinder.

 

[ArlyA]

From speaking with my dealer, resharpening these carbides has always been the issue. We normally take files and extra sharp chains into the field with us. Same as folks have already mentioned, file as you work along. Then replace the chain if its damaged, to far off camber or overly dulled.