Sorry I'm a bit late to this thread, but I can relate my experience with a carbide tipped chain.
I cut dry hardwood for firewood, mainly ironbark and grey box (the two common eucalyptus types in my area). Greybox, in particular, is very hard on a chain. You have to touch up the chain every tank of fuel - 2 or 3 file strokes. If you don't, you will be trying to burn your way through before the next tank is done. This is with clean logs and not touching the bar onto the ground.
I bought a Stihl 325 carbide tipped chain for my 231 after seeing the Stihl clip linked above. (I use a 16" bar to buck logs up to say 12-13". For anything bigger, I have a 391 and 20" bar, but the wear on the chain is the same).
The end result was disapointing simply because of the difficulty in sharpening it. It started off fine and certainly cut well for a lot longer, but then you find yourself slowly putting up with a 2/3 sharp chain, then a 1/2 sharp one, then a 1/3 sharp one ........... You get past the point where you would have sharpened a normal chain and been back to full efficiency.
I have a bench top electric grinder (that I rarely use), but a diamond wheel for it was pricey. The local Stihl dealer quoted me $40 for a sharpen, which I grudgingly paid. When I used the chain next time, it was nowhere near as good as new - so I used it until it was too dull and that was the end of that experiment.
If you could sharpen it yourself when it started to dull, then you can definitely cut far longer between sharpens than a normal chain. For me, it was far easier (and cheaper) to revert to the simple touch up each tank.
