Cargo Container

/ Cargo Container #1  

timberwolves

Bronze Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Messages
51
Location
Delaware County, N.Y. & Seaford, L.I.
Tractor
Massey Ferguson MF-65
I have a 40' steel shipping container that I keep my tractor, tools and other items in. I am looking to build a shed type roof off one side of it. I have been trying to research the idea and have seen some ways of attaching it to the container. I just not sure what is the best way to attach the ledger board ? Has anyone done a project like this and care to comment ? Any help or ideas would be great. I was thinking some type of L bracket welded to the bottom side of the I beam and bolting the ledger to the L bracket with the wood resting on the top of the container ? Thanks John
 
/ Cargo Container #2  
Why not just bolt the ledger directly to the container? Use deck hanger brackets to attach your rafter boards to ledger. I would think the trickier part will be flashing where the roof meets the container.
 
/ Cargo Container #3  
One of the problems with starting at the top edge of the container is that from that point out the roof should be dropping and now you end up with a very low shed. You almost need to go up from the container some (a couple of feet?) before you have the roof slant down and away.

Hope that that makes sense to you. I want & need to do basically the same thing.
 
/ Cargo Container #4  
One of the problems with starting at the top edge of the container is that from that point out the roof should be dropping and now you end up with a very low shed. You almost need to go up from the container some (a couple of feet?) before you have the roof slant down and away.

Hope that that makes sense to you. I want & need to do basically the same thing.

Yes. Go above the containers roof level. More head space.
 
/ Cargo Container #5  
What Brian says about a sloping roof is true if you don't have a high (9-1/2') box or have your box elevated on some type of structure. Otherwise, you can easily go out to 12' to 14' depending on your final height. Around here with no snow load whatsoever, a 1' drop would be plenty, so you would have 8' of clearance or a bit more at your drip edge.

I did a lean-to barn on one side of my container, but also framed over the top and built a raised roof over the top. It's amazing how much cooler your roof will be if you do this. Since the box was only 8' wide, the flat roof sheds water just fine. Water never gets deeper than the ridges in the metal. I framed over the top and then attached my lean-to rafters directly to the frame. I didn't have to drill into the container except on the side by the door to attach a 2x6 to fasten the side purlins to. I did drill along the top, but that was into the square tube that runs along the top edge and doesn't open into the interier of the container. I posted a thread here on TBN, but I just can't find it. I'll post a bunch of photos below so you can see how I did it.

I'll start with the top frame structure. I cut 2x4 blocks and attached a Simpson "L" bracket to them with deck screws. I put a 2x4 along the top of the square tubing and then attached the block with more deck screws so that the "L" bracket sits under the square tubing. I used self-drilling fasteners to attache the bracket to the bottom of the square tubing.

If you choose not to frame over the entire top, I'd use treated lumber for the ledger and screw it directly to the square tubing with long self-tapping screws. I would not screw into the sides of the container unless you feel it is needed. It was not necessary for me to use treated lumber because my wood never gets wet.
 

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/ Cargo Container #6  
Here is how I framed in the front wall of the barn without interfering with the doors. In this instance, I set back my purlin stud and drilled and bolted it to the container.
 

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/ Cargo Container #7  
After adding metal and interior shelves, I have a very nice lean-to that is half closed in.
 

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/ Cargo Container
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Jinman I found you posts on your project & that is what got my wheels turning. Thanks for posting your pics again. I dont want to put any holes in the container if I dont have to. I like your idea with the L brackets, just not sure if I need to beef up the L brackets. I would not be putting a flat roof on top, just the shed type roof off on one side. The container is 8' high on a big deep bed of 3/4" bluestone resting on 8"X8" RR ties. I was thinking of attaching a pressure treated 2X like your method on top of the container then framing the roof rafters to the ledger. The other end of the rafters will sit on a beam that is supported by posts. I will be using a metal roof. Our snow fall is significant so I am worried about the snow load. Before I do the roof I have to paint the container, cant stand the maroon reddish color. i guess I will use rustoleum ext. paint.
 
/ Cargo Container #9  
My Oldest Brother built off of one by starting a peak slightly above center of the container. (Note: It was setup east/west and the "Lean Too" was built off the north side of the container, it was 20' though.)
On the south side the roof was extended UP and inset clear solar windows to add light into the north side of the barn. He said it works great to get extra light in back, the North side was a standard 4-12 pitch where as the South Roof side was much steeper more of a 6/12 or maybe a 8/12 pitch. The North/South Roof covered over the container roof completely and on the north side the roof was probably 2 or 3 feet of clear to store stuff on the container's roof. The roof pitch peak over the container was maybe 5 feet from the very peak to the containers metal.

I think there were some carriage bolts through the side walls that attached some ledger boards to. I only saw phone pics so cant say for sure but didnt see anything through actual roof of the container. looking at the roof line from the container end it sort of looked like a "L" shape with the container in the crook of the "L" if that makes any sense.

Mark
 
/ Cargo Container #10  
I too have a conex container I keep my 4-wheelers and motorcycles in. I don't have electricity so I am getting ready to install solar power because I do have an extreme problem with condensation. What's the best way to resolve this issue? Of course cutting in ventilation can cause security problems....
 
/ Cargo Container #11  
Gcp,

We have a little over 112 acres with no electricity. We are going to install solar lights and an 8KW Genarac Back Up generator with transfer switch (and I think a breaker box). This would run our well and all tools plus compressor.

We were going to try for windmill, but it was more expensive for the initial set up. But I still like windmill and solar.

I have not researched the solar and wondered if you have and could you share your research?

Thanks,

Jim
 
/ Cargo Container #12  
Jinman,

I like the idea of using a shipping container and putting a shed roof on the side. I looked around for containers in my area and the only thing I could find was beat up rusted containers in terrible shape. Yours looks like it's in great condition. What did that container cost if you don't mind saying?
 
/ Cargo Container #13  
I too have a conex container I keep my 4-wheelers and motorcycles in. I don't have electricity so I am getting ready to install solar power because I do have an extreme problem with condensation. What's the best way to resolve this issue? Of course cutting in ventilation can cause security problems....
Check your local precast desler. They put small vents in concrete bunkers they sell. They are small enough to ventilate, but not big enough to be a risk.
 
/ Cargo Container #14  
Jinman,

I like the idea of using a shipping container and putting a shed roof on the side. I looked around for containers in my area and the only thing I could find was beat up rusted containers in terrible shape. Yours looks like it's in great condition. What did that container cost if you don't mind saying?

I think prices and condition vary widely from locale to locale. It's been at least years since I bought mine. My box has a couple of nonconsequential dings (rubs really), but there were no leaks. The dealer charged me $2400 for the box and $175 for delivery from 40 miles away. He had regular sized containers, but I thought the high box at 9-1/2' was a good deal. The smaller boxes were $2200. This container has seen a lot of use. It's not a one-trip box in pristeen condition. However, the floor is perfect and I am really happy with my price and the delivery. The driver put the box right on the spot I wanted despite having some obstacles to deal with. I was at work and he treated my wife with complete respect. I called the dealer later and told him the delivery driver was top notch.:thumbsup:

BTW: If I had been able to get one, the light grey or white boxes are at least 10 degrees cooler inside on a sunny day (maybe more). As we were looking, we walked into several brown boxes like mine and one grey one. The difference was astonishing. However the grey box was normal size and had additional damage. Some places sell mostly one color. A local dealer rents/sells containers and his are all grey. He's a BUNCH more expensive than where I bought though.
 
/ Cargo Container
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Jinman, I just got home from my camp we did a bunch of projects. I was looking at my container to see how I was going to attach a ledger board & mine is not like yours. In you pic the top of the container is a box beam, the one I have is a 3/8 plate. Not sure if this makes sense to you or not. You used self tappers to connect the L brakets on top of the container. On mine I would not be able to use self tappers because I dont have a box beam on top, its just a piece of plate steel. I took some pics of it but I have to remember how to post them. I need to figure out another way of attaching the wood ledger.
 
/ Cargo Container #16  
Weld on an angle iron ledger.

Bruce
 
/ Cargo Container #17  
Here's how I built mine:

The "sill plate" is 4"x6" PT to give a little more height. It's lag screwed from below, through the container. I used butyl rubber to seal the holes. The rafters are tied to the sill w/ Simpson tie plates. 2"x10" common rafters w/ 2x8 purlins. Overall size is 12' x 16'. So far so good. Mine's temporary though because I'm going to take it down and sell the container when I build the barn this summer.

Marcus
 
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/ Cargo Container #19  
Jinman, I just got home from my camp we did a bunch of projects. I was looking at my container to see how I was going to attach a ledger board & mine is not like yours. In you pic the top of the container is a box beam, the one I have is a 3/8 plate.

It appears that all containers are not manufactured the same. Is yours a tall box or a regular 8' box? I don't recall your saying which. Either way, you'll have to come up with an alternate plan because of construction differences.
 

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