cat 1 to cat 2

[LouNY]

Land Pride makes a Floating Top Link for use with quick hitches.
A brush hog is not designed to be ridged mounted to the top link, it needs to float.
This link if it works will take you to the directions for the floating top link adapter for use with a quick hitch.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=2ahUKEwjbx8Gvq6noAhWChHIEHQiaC-cQFjAAegQIARAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.landpride.com%2Fari%2Fattach%2Flp%2Fpublic%2Fmanuals%2F320-014m.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1x_BrQxhVi11yXNxi-F1ZN

 

[bcp]

IMHO the RK cutter with 3 pt centerlink attaching hinged bracket hanging down in photo below will not allow correct utilization of a quick hitch that has centerlink cutter attaching connection. QH utilization will stop or limit rear tail wheel from raising when a hump or berm is crossed by tail whee because hinge linkage on cutter can't hinge with HF QH attached. I think Pat's QH is a better choice than HF QH because I've owned both but now strictly utilize Pat's QH. I think one can mount 3 pt Cat l (7/8'' dia.)pins aimed inside of brackets for correct Cat l lower pin spacing.

This is one way to fix the flex problem with a quick hitch.

Bruce

 

[ovrszd]

Good stuff Bruce!!!

I think you've posted this solution in other threads.

 

[countrybumpkin]

If you look at pic real close the right hand side pin probably can be reversed, on left hand side the gusset on vertical arm blocks pin from being reversed, I would cut the gusset out and move it to back side of arm and then you can expose pin of left hand side.... Note, they used same bracket on both left and right side of "A" frame, so on one side pin location is exposed (right side) and then bracket on other side (left) is reversed blocking pin hole access..... I would also consider removing the top link and consider using chain as top link...

There is a thread somewhere on here about using chain as top link...

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/220947-chains-instead-top-link-bush.html

Dale

It’s just the way the pic is, both pins are blocked on the inside, same upright brace on each.

 

[Tachdriver]

Ok, I moved the verticals back to the holes further in like the one gentleman suggested ( #5 in pic ) - This allowed the pins to be extracted and installed inwards. This absolutely lines up with the quick hitch now.

Now for the top link/ The HF QH is a cat 1. The top link hook is about 10" too low to attach to this KK cat 2 top, even with the hook moved all the way up. So today I cut the HF original top line plates off with a slicer, ground smooth, and made two new plates out of 1/2" plate, with holes that run up to 14", about double what was there. welded these back into place with 7018 1/8" 4 passes in and out. Put the top link hole back where it belongs. Put the top hook back on at the level is needs to be at, and will try to fit tomorrow and see what happens. If it works, ill send some pics.

 

[bcp]

If the Cat 2 top link pin was too high for your Cat 1 quick hitch, the cutter is not built to QH compatible specifications. The table in post 5 shows both Cat 1 and Cat 2 top pin at 14.94 above lower pins.

Bruce

 

[WranglerX]

Ok, I moved the verticals back to the holes further in like the one gentleman suggested ( #5 in pic ) - This allowed the pins to be extracted and installed inwards. This absolutely lines up with the quick hitch now.

Now for the top link/ The HF QH is a cat 1. The top link hook is about 10" too low to attach to this KK cat 2 top, even with the hook moved all the way up. So today I cut the HF original top line plates off with a slicer, ground smooth, and made two new plates out of 1/2" plate, with holes that run up to 14", about double what was there. welded these back into place with 7018 1/8" 4 passes in and out. Put the top link hole back where it belongs. Put the top hook back on at the level is needs to be at, and will try to fit tomorrow and see what happens. If it works, ill send some pics.

Modifying the QH defeats purpose of QH (standard) .... Modify attachment...

Dale

 

[Tachdriver]

I finished the modification to the QH and tried it out this morning, works perfectly. The top hook could stand another inch on the hook shoulder, but it is where i need it. Back up the tractor, engage the bottom two hooks, lock then in, lift up a bit, then lower the hydraulic top link and slide the 1" pin thru and hairpin. Lifts good, pivots good, will flex as intended - i am happy.

This way the HF QH is still Cat 1 , And will attach to this Cat 2 King Kutter, and can always be adjusted back down on the Top Link hook to fit any Cat 1 implement.

I can post some pictures of what i did if anyone wants to see it.

 

[ovrszd]

We always prefer pics.

 

[Tachdriver]

Ok, pics tomorrow - Now on this same King Kutter, I want to be able to change out blades for sharpened ones. The current bolt setup is a round headed 1-1/8" -12 bolt with keyway is passed up thru the blade, then stump jump, to the top where a hole allows you to place a lock washer, castle nut with cotter key AND a spot weld ! Now KK does not want these blades to vibrate off and I understand. I removed all that today and will install a spare new set of sharpened blades. Ill die chase the bolt threads and tap restore the nuts. And reinstall everything as it was, spot weld and all. But my question is there a better way to remove these blades without all this hardware ? Lawn mower blades are one spring washer and nut, betta bing in and out. What IF - A hardened bolt was passed down thru the stump jump, back welded on top of the that where the hole would be, blade goes on underneath, proper spacer, lock washer, red locker, castle nut, cotter key.....no spot weld - with two or three threads showing thru the nut. This way no more socket thru the hole, lock down the input shaft to aid in nut removal and drop the blades all under the deck ?

What do you think ? Anyone tried another way ?

Later