Chain and Binder - general tie down question

[megaboz]

To be honest, never thought about that, but there is the possibility that the chain tension would not be the same on both sides, so that would be one reason.

I know I would not try to straighten the tension equally by driving forward to make my tractor pull equal tension on the lines (sliding the tractor to get it lined up completely straight.).

 

[Chris86303]

Why put binders on the rear? Why not put the chains on, then move the tractor forward a bit to snug it up, then use binders on the front to hold it there? Seems like an easier and maybe more reliable approach. Ken

It would seem to be easier for the initial tie down but if you were towing it any distance and it loosened up you would have to start the tractor, lift the FEL and/or BH, move the tractor forward and then retighten the front binders or ratchets and reverse the FEL/BH binding. Pretty time consuming for the long haul.

If you used binders on all corners to begin with you could just go around in a minute or so and tighten the 4 ratchets and move on down the road.

I've never hauled anything, no matter how well it was initially tied down without it loosening up as you bounced down the road.

 

[crazyal]

Why put binders on the rear? Why not put the chains on, then move the tractor forward a bit to snug it up, then use binders on the front to hold it there? Seems like an easier and maybe more reliable approach.

Ken

This is how I move my 580K all the time. I use a 30' chain in the back into two loops with the slack in the middle then drive forward until tight. I set the brake then do the same in the front. By doing it this way the chain is doubled up in each corner and because I leave slack in the middle if one corner came loose the other side would still hold.

I use the lever style binders, got them from Northern tool. US made with a loop for a lock or clip to keep the lever from flipping back. Sorry but don't bother with a binder from China if you value your equipment. Finally I always chain down the hoe, I was told once it was law, don't know. It locks both up and from going side to side but I would rather have a chain on it and know I'm safe.

 

[RobertN]

Why put binders on the rear? Why not put the chains on, then move the tractor forward a bit to snug it up, then use binders on the front to hold it there? Seems like an easier and maybe more reliable approach.

Ken

Because DOT requirements are to bind or ratchet strap all four corners.

Search this site; it has been discussed a number of times in the past. There is some really good info out there.

FWIW, I emailed and phoned my state trooper, Ca Highway Patrol. They said independantly bound on each corner; either chain and binder, or ratchet strap.

 

[RobertN]

This is how I move my 580K all the time. I use a 30' chain in the back into two loops with the slack in the middle then drive forward until tight. I set the brake then do the same in the front. By doing it this way the chain is doubled up in each corner and because I leave slack in the middle if one corner came loose the other side would still hold.

I use the lever style binders, got them from Northern tool. US made with a loop for a lock or clip to keep the lever from flipping back. Sorry but don't bother with a binder from China if you value your equipment. Finally I always chain down the hoe, I was told once it was law, don't know. It locks both up and from going side to side but I would rather have a chain on it and know I'm safe.

DOT rules are a chain and binder on each corner, one chain/binder over the bucket, and one chain/binder restraining the hoe. It is though, open to some state vs fed interpetation.

The best advice given in previous threads like this, is study and find out both the Federal regs, and the State regs. Sometimes the state regs are tougher than federal...

 

[JB4310]

As far as using just chain on the back with no binders goes, it seems to me that you would still have that opposing force as long as you had both back corners independent of each other.

But it still seems it would be a little tighter with 4 binders though, since as you crank down on binders the tires squat down taking the energy, if you only cranked front binders then the back would not suck down much IMO.

Regardless of whether it's legal or as stable or not, your definitely not saving any time by getting off the machine hooking 2 chains on back then getting back on, pulling forward trying to keep equal tension on both, then getting down to finish hooking up the fronts.
IMO just drive on to the sweet spot, set the brake, get off and hook up chains on back or front first, snug binders, go to other end, hook chains and tighten binder tight, go back to first end and finish tighten them and you should be done.

JB.

 

[Ken45101]

Remember that the strain will shift from the front to the back as you go up hill and down hill. Going up hill the strain will be at the front keeping it from rolling back. Going down hill the strain will be at the back keeping it from rolling ahead.

There is unlikely to be very much strain on the front tie downs going uphill. If I remember my math right, a 5000# tractor would only apply a 500# load going up a 10% grade, even with the tractor brakes off.

You would need to add the strain due to acceleration but I don't think many of us are going to be doing any significant acceleration going up a 10% grade pulling a tractor.

The biggest chance of strain on the front tie downs would be if you were rear ended by a speeding 100,000# coal truck. In that case, I wouldn't worry too much about what happens to the tie downs.

Ken

 

[megaboz]

You would need to add the strain due to acceleration but I don't think many of us are going to be doing any significant acceleration going up a 10% grade pulling a tractor.

Ken

I take it you don't own a Duramax?

 

[WantedWolf]

maybe more for hauling a car/truck then a tractor, But does anyone place blocks (like railroad ties) under the frame and then air down tires and then bind down with chains?. Hopefully removing any potential for slack the suspension might give on your chains.

I am thinking of doing this for the move to haul an f150 with stock rack cramed with stuff. I have certainly maxed out the suspension on the junker 150 and I think it would carry better stiffened on blocks. Am I wrong
?

 

[RobertN]

The biggest chance of strain on the front tie downs would be if you were rear ended by a speeding 100,000# coal truck. In that case, I wouldn't worry too much about what happens to the tie downs.
Ken

Well... The guy that owns the local tractor shop I use, got in an accident. He was on a curvy rod, towing with a crewcab F450. He had a 20' dual axle trailer. He had a ~50hp Ford tractor, and a disc loaded up. Tractor was chained and bound on all four corners. Disc had a couple chains and binders across it.

Some guy lost it in a curve just as the tractor guy was going through the curve. Barely grazed the truck, but hit the trailer HARD. Broke two wheel off one side; broke the stubs off the axles, tire, rim, brakes, backing plate and all. Tore the fender off. Bent a piece of 4" box steel on the disk. Hit a rear rim on the tractor.

The guy had to be flown out to a trauma center. Car was trashed.

My tractor guys trailer was totaled. Disc ruined. But, he was chained and bound tight. Neither the tractor, nor the disc, moved on the trailer.

I have been chaining and binding on all four corners, and over extra implements for a while. That accident just reinforced my earlier decision.

Extra chain and binder are cheap compared to a $12k tractor, $1500 trailer, $10-40k pickup, your life, and the life of those around you.

And, it does not take a 100,000lb coal truck to ruin your day