Chain Clearance on 34DA

[DCJL]

I have chains for my 34DA with turf tires. The 3pt hitch side arms rub the chains. The chains are on good and tight and I've put them on 2x already to make sure it was not me. How would I go about getting the tires further out. I probably could get by with 1/2 inch on both sides.

 

[MrJimi]

I have one word for you
wheelspacers that should make your day
Jim

 

[DCJL]

Thanks. Any idea where I'd get a set of wheel spacers for the 34DA? I've been searching the web and have not found anything. Is it possible to simply reverse mount the tires with the dish out. Is this possible on the 34DA and would it add a couple of inches?

 

[390GT]

I believe that with turf tires, your wheels are already out as far as they go. You can move them out farther by useing washers at each lug (between axel face and back of wheel). You can stack them up to get the clearance you need. Have used this trick on cars. No speciality items required.

 

[DCJL]

Thanks, that is what the dealer suggested. I would have thought this would be a standard situation and there would be a factory answer to the problem. I'll go take a look and see how much room I have on the current bolts and pull one off for sizing. Sounds like the best least expensive way to get that 1/2 inch.

Does anyone think there would be any problem stacking a couple of washers to gain 1/2 inch clearance?

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Contact Unverferth High-Clearance Wheel Conversions and see if they have spacers for your model. If they don't they should be able to make them for you. I would go with a spacer plate before I used washers.

 

[RickB]

You are asking for trouble using washers to space a rim our from a hub on a drive axle. Find a set of spacers, or investigate reversing the dish. Unverferth will build spacers from your dimensions if they don't list them. I think the pilot/lug circles on TC's is halfway common so if they don't list your particular model, don't panic.

 

[DCJL]

I had the chains on again to see if I may have installed them incorrectly. This time I jacked up the tractor to try to get the best fit possible. Went outside with them on. Hitting on a spot or two. Made me VERY nervous. If they caught, lord knows what would happen, so after a little plowing (rear blade) I removed them and tried without the chains. Tractor did fine, but there is a hill I'd like to be able to climb to get to a field to clear some snow for my daughters horse. Tractor did not make it up the hill. Also not so sure how the tractor would do with some real snow without chains.

I will contact my dealer as he sold me the tractor, chains and tires at the same time saying they would work. My guess is they probably have not sold many tractors with turf tires and have never sold a turf tired tractor with chains. My feeling is I should probably pull a wheel and copy sketch the pattern to have a local metal shop make up some circular 1/2" aluminum plates and get 1/2" longer bolts. Anyone see any problems with using this set up instead of just a bunch of washers?

 

[MrJimi]

Most good auto parts stores should have wheel spacers, I don't know how many bolts or pattern you have? I'm probably way off with this reply
I tried
Jim

 

[390GT]

The only problem with custom made spacers is cost. Shear strength of fasteners is about 60% of tensile strength. Your rear wheels have 8 or 10 bolts holding them on ( I not walking out to the barn to look at the TC33DA). There is no way that a 2500lb. tractor with turf tires and snow chains is ever going to shear those bolts. I know others will differ from my oponion, thats their right, and its your money. Greg

 

[RickB]

Aluminum spacer plates or mild steel washers are too soft to work in this application. They will crush, leaving the lugs loose, which will damage your rims and probably your fenders when the wheels fall off. It is as simple as that. Use full diameter wheel spacers made from steel. They will have sufficient surface area to do the job, and provide a pilot diameter for the wheel to center on.

 

[DCJL]

Never would have thought that an aluminum spacer would crush. Dang. Guess I'll have to go to my machine shop and have them make up some steel spacers. thanks.

 

[Doloe]

Wow! Snow already.
You probably know this but.........
Be aware that even if your tires aren't filled, the wheel/tire is going to be heavy. Much heavier than you might think.

 

[390GT]

My F250 has aluminum wheels, no crushing, no loose lugs, tires have not fallen off yet. Most all drag racing wheels including the ones on my tubbed out 67' mustang are aluminum, I've no problems with them either. Grade 8 steel washers are hardware store items. You will not crush the washers. I torque my lugs to about 95 lbs. I don't know the amount of force per sq. inch required to crush aluminum, however I'm sure its way up there. Greg

 

[RickB]

Hey, it's not my tractor. knock yourself out. There is simply no advantage to aluminum in this application.

 

[Compact1]

I have chains for my 34DA with turf tires. The 3pt hitch side arms rub the chains. The chains are on good and tight and I've put them on 2x already to make sure it was not me. How would I go about getting the tires further out. I probably could get by with 1/2 inch on both sides.

I have another approach...change the dish on your rear tires. Put your left rear tire on the right side and vica versa. Make sure the tread continues to face the proper direction.

I also had a clearance problem on a TC24DA with turf tires and I changed the rear tires as described above. It completely solved the problem without adding spacers. The only negative result will be your valve stems on the inside which makes them less convenient to access.

 

[DCJL]

Thanks, I thought about this, but not sure if the wheels are equal on both sides, I'll have to measure as eyeballing it is inconclusive.

My tires are loaded so I know I have to be VERY cautious, such as not letting the tire lay down and jacking the tractor as far out on the axle as possible.

I may have to take a tire off just to measure the distance.

 

[Compact1]

Thanks, I thought about this, but not sure if the wheels are equal on both sides, I'll have to measure as eyeballing it is inconclusive.

My tires are loaded so I know I have to be VERY cautious, such as not letting the tire lay down and jacking the tractor as far out on the axle as possible.

I may have to take a tire off just to measure the distance.

Trust me when I tell you there is a difference. Your owners manual should describe the difference in tractor width depending on "dish out" or "dish in". You will need to remove your chains when you swap rear tires otherwise the fastener will be on the inside. You will be surprised at the difference, even visually, once you do this.

Also, don't forget to pin the 3-pt. arms to their most narrow adjustment to maximize space between tires and 3-pt. arms.

Let us know how it turns out.

 

[Compact1]

Look in Section 2 of your Owners Manual under Wheel Tread Settings for the difference between Dish Out and Dish In measurements.

 

[DCJL]

Thanks guys, MUCH appreciated. I, uh can't find my owners manual. It is here somewhere, but have been TOOOOO busy to even get my paperwork in order. It is buried under mounds of paper. Good and bad to be sure.

If I pin the arms then I can run chains, but can't use any attachments, so I need to get more clearance, so I'll swap the tires. The chains are already off, so no problem. I am actually surprised at how easy it is to put the chains on and off. So far the easiest way seems to be to jack up the tractor, but running over them is not too bad either, but not as fast getting a snug fit.

I'll let you know how it goes.