BigE_
Platinum Member
I've seriously considered a cordless saw a few times. I go snow mobile riding in the woods and quite often come across downed trees. A little cordless saw would be just the ticket at those times.
The one problem is that you'll find out very quickly, you need two saws for when you get one stuck....happens all the time.
After 20 years of firewood cutting, I finally realized how handy having a couple wedges is to prevent this, or more likely, undo this.
After 20 years of firewood cutting, I finally realized how handy having a couple wedges is to prevent this, or more likely, undo this.
That is what you have an extra bar and chain for.
High octane fuel should only be used for engines specifically designed for it. High octane has less power and more additives in it to prevent detonation in high compression engines.
When you sharpen your chain, flip the bar. It helps it wear evenly and increases its life.
Had wedges on my Christmas list... Santa must have forgot.
Anything to look for as far as material, brand and quantity?
Speaking of the idea of having an extra chain and bar and that being the solution to stuck/pinched bars?! So what, we're supposed to detach the saw from the bar/chain and install a different spare bar/chain?! Yeah, right, now that's a real time KILLER for sure. I'll wait for the video on that method....Sure, that works, but it takes more time, and that's the one of the few things I find they aren't making more of!
Stihl lists 89 octane as the absolute minimum, and their proprietary MotoMix is 92 octane. Evidently, they think it's the best choice for their engines.
Your comment about higher octane gas having "less power" and more additives in it isn't correct. Octane ratings are not an indicator of the energy content of the fuel, they are simply a measure of the fuel's resistance to ignition/burning. If an engine is designed around a theoretical 90 octane ideal fuel, it will make less power with any octane level above, or below 90, but that isn't because of the energy content of the fuel. As far as additives, there are times when a higher octane will have fewer additives than lower octane, but that's not something we can tell readily at the pump. It will depend on the base they use, and sometimes they use a poorer quality base for the lower octane fuels, then add a bunch of additives to make them meet specifications. The higher octane might start with a much better base, and need less in the way of additives....so, it just depends.
Had wedges on my Christmas list... Santa must have forgot.
Anything to look for as far as material, brand and quantity?
Stihl lists 89 octane as the absolute minimum, and their proprietary MotoMix is 92 octane. Evidently, they think it's the best choice for their engines.
Your comment about higher octane gas having "less power" and more additives in it isn't correct. Octane ratings are not an indicator of the energy content of the fuel, they are simply a measure of the fuel's resistance to ignition/burning. If an engine is designed around a theoretical 90 octane ideal fuel, it will make less power with any octane level above, or below 90, but that isn't because of the energy content of the fuel. As far as additives, there are times when a higher octane will have fewer additives than lower octane, but that's not something we can tell readily at the pump. It will depend on the base they use, and sometimes they use a poorer quality base for the lower octane fuels, then add a bunch of additives to make them meet specifications. The higher octane might start with a much better base, and need less in the way of additives....so, it just depends.