Chain sharpening

[RalphVa]

My wife ran into a neighbor who uses a Dremel chainsaw sharpening kit to sharpen his chains. I ordered and received it and have looked at a few videos.

The shop we use now charges $10 to sharpen her little 12 inch Stihl chains; so the kit will pay off if it works.

Years ago, I used to sharpen my chains with first a round file and then with a round stone in the electric drill. Both had guides to get the angle right (in one of the Dremel videos, the guy who'd sharpened by hand and then with the Dremel off a little generator said the angle thing gets in the way; he just sharpens without the angle tool). The problem I had back then was that I'd somehow end up sharpening the teeth on one side different from the other side such that the chain saw would cut on a curve.

In one video, the guy mentioned to make so many strokes/tooth. This is what I use when using a grinder on my mower blades, to keep them balanced. Maybe this is what I was doing wrong way back when (in 1492, maybe).

Any comments on your methods/experience?

Ralph

 

[oosik]

I use my two Stihl's so infrequently - I sharpen with a rat tail file. Sharp enough to spit out spiral noodles when I cut my big pines. I don't use firewood any more. But - I have a couple friends who are happy to come and cut up any dead or fallen trees for their own use. Works for me.......

In the day - I had a sharpener that clamped on the bar. Think it was Oregon. Yes - I would count the strokes - same on each tooth - same on each side.

 

[ericm979]

I hand file 90% of the time. I count the strokes, adding one if I had a dud. You need to keep all the angles in mind and make sure you're filing the underside of the tooth properly. Also unless you're ambidextrous you end up filing the teeth on one side from the front and the other side from the back, which means an angle change. Even knowing that, it's hard to keep them exactly the same.

Also each size chain needs the correct size chainsaw file. And the files need to be cleaned out with a file card.

For about 10% of sharpenings I use a bench grinder, which evens up all the angles and gets the teeth the same length if they weren't. The grinder has it's own technique that needs to be learned. I used to be able to keep them all the same with a file when I was younger but even with reading glasses I can't see as well now. I probably have less patience now too.

 

[oldballs]

What eric said........And now I have an Oregon bench grinder (given to me) that really is slick. Now I can sit down and grind away with ease and do a better job. I keep three chains each for 16" & 20" bars.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[SPYDERLK]

My wife ran into a neighbor who uses a Dremel chainsaw sharpening kit to sharpen his chains. I ordered and received it and have looked at a few videos.

The shop we use now charges $10 to sharpen her little 12 inch Stihl chains; so the kit will pay off if it works.

Years ago, I used to sharpen my chains with first a round file and then with a round stone in the electric drill. Both had guides to get the angle right (in one of the Dremel videos, the guy who'd sharpened by hand and then with the Dremel off a little generator said the angle thing gets in the way; he just sharpens without the angle tool). The problem I had back then was that I'd somehow end up sharpening the teeth on one side different from the other side such that the chain saw would cut on a curve.

In one video, the guy mentioned to make so many strokes/tooth. This is what I use when using a grinder on my mower blades, to keep them balanced. Maybe this is what I was doing wrong way back when (in 1492, maybe).

Any comments on your methods/experience?

Ralph

I sharpen freehand on the bar and have not had problems. Many chains these days have an angle mark atop each tooth, which helps with consistent angling. I have not found that to be a critical issue ~ +/-. - - I wear a glove on the file hand and sharpen til sharp as checked with the back of a fingernail on the top and side of each tooth. I count strokes but add more where necessary on a particular tooth. --- I think its mostly in just "getting the hang of it". :confused3:

 

[PILOON]

Maybe old style, but every tank full or so I simply do a one/two file stroke each way and make a whole nice pile of chips.
After some 25 years I guess I'm kind of stuck in my ways.
No matter, my wood gets cut as I like.

You really have to stop overthinking everything,
File and cut!

OK, your filing may not be to design engineers specs but 99% 'good enough'.

 

[Thunder chicken]

I tried a dremel stone for a bit..... I found the stones would wear out, becoming smaller in diameter and if you don’t notice, you won’t get the right angles, just like using too small of a file. Mind you I was sharpening 4-5 chains at a time, 20 a week when into lots of firewood. (Easier for me to remove chain from firewood processor and replace with sharp one)
Some times I can do 2-5 cords on a sharpen... sometime not a cord if it’s dirty wood... lots of sharpening..... I’m back to hand filing.
As to the cutting crooked.... the tooth length does have that effect, but it’s cause the tooth length relative to the depth gauge or ‘raker’ is not consistent.
About every 3 sharpenings, your depth gauges need a few rubs with a flat file. There’s a gauge for that too that works good.

 

[Thunder chicken]

Oh, and I have one of those little Sthil battery saws and love it dearly, except for sharpening that micro chain. It’s a 1/4” Picco if I remember right, and takes a file about the size of a toothpick. I’m about ready to buy the rivet tool and a roll of chain for it and forget sharpening them....

 

[hosspuller]

That off hand filing used to get me every time. Then I discovered turning the whole saw over and filing the opposite teeth.

 

[kthompson]

I like the file system for Stihl saws. Some where about 30 or 40 dollars. Has file to sharpen the teeth, file the drag and keep you on angle. For me simple and works very good. I have tried the Dremel type tool and the Harbor Freight grinder sharper and other than the Stihl the best I had was a tool with round file that keep the angle fixed.