Chainsaw Bar Length?

[HillStreet]

I have a Stihl 029 Super with a 20 inch bar, and have used this saw for 20 years. Just serviced it with new filters, fuel line, and spark plug. Since it runs so good I will keep it in service as my only chainsaw.

However, I am thinking about buying a shorter bar, maybe 16 or 18 inch. I have a 9 cord load of log length to cut, with the largest logs no more than 14 inch diameter. I do not need a 20 inch bar because I'm retired and don't plan to fell trees like I once did (my property is finished, no more big jobs).

Here are a few questions:
Can I shorten my 5 chains to fit the new bar, is it hard to do?
Is a shorter bar safer, or easier to use?
What would be the benefit of a shorter bar versus a 20 inch bar?

Thanks

 

[2458n]

Yes, you can shorten your existing chains. I have the tools to do so, but not the repair links. The saw probably has a good balance with the 20 inch bar. You will not be saving much weight at all. Going 4 inches shorter will not gain you a thing in my opinion. If you just want to buy something get on E-bay and buy a 16'' bar and two loops of chain that matches your existing sprocket.

 

[MossRoad]

As I see it, the advantage to a shorter bar is you have more power in reserve should you start to bog.... and that shouldn't happen with a properly sized bar and engine. For example.... I have an 18" Poulan that if I put a really good, sharp chain on, I have no problem stopping the saw on really hard 16" logs....I.E.... the saw is gutless! :laughing: It would be perfect for a 14" chainsaw. The advantage to a longer bar and an engine that can handle it is that there are more cutters, so the chain should stay sharper longer on smaller wood.

Another advantage to a shorter saw is its easier to maneuver and nice for limbing. But with a longer bar, you don't have to reach as far. Given the choices that you mention, I'd buy a second, shorter bar and chain and see how you like it. If you like it, get a couple more chains. You can pretty much guarantee that if you go through the bother of shortening your chains, a really large tree will need cutting soon thereafter. :laughing:

 

[turnkey4099]

I have a Stihl 029 Super with a 20 inch bar, and have used this saw for 20 years. Just serviced it with new filters, fuel line, and spark plug. Since it runs so good I will keep it in service as my only chainsaw.

However, I am thinking about buying a shorter bar, maybe 16 or 18 inch. I have a 9 cord load of log length to cut, with the largest logs no more than 14 inch diameter. I do not need a 20 inch bar because I'm retired and don't plan to fell trees like I once did (my property is finished, no more big jobs).

Here are a few questions:
Can I shorten my 5 chains to fit the new bar, is it hard to do?
Is a shorter bar safer, or easier to use?
What would be the benefit of a shorter bar versus a 20 inch bar?

Thanks

Any place that services saws will shorten them for you. Only cost a couple dollars each.

As others have said, you won't really notice much difference with the shorter bar.

I prefer short bars for limbing but I run 3 different sizes of saws/bars.

Harry K

 

[vtsnowedin]

A shorter bar will kick back quicker then a long one. Not that you should notice that if your running it right and the chain break works properly. I like 20 inch bars on a saw large enough to run it as it reduces the amount you have to bend over to limb stuff on the ground. Other then that the longer bar means you have more teeth to file when it needs it. Try a 16" bar and chain. You can always switch back if you don't like it.

 

[JDgreen227]

I have never had a chainsaw with a bar longer than 18" and never wanted one because I don't do serious cutting, indeed, most of my saw use now is with a 14" bar and chain fitted to a 42cc Craftsman. About kickback....what's kickback? Have always used low-kickback chains and although cutting performance is reduced I don't care because trading off speed for safety is a fair deal IMO.

I must disagree about the benefit of a longer bar for trimming up stuff on the ground, to me the longer bar would just mean I would be more likely to run the tip into dirt. Come on now...even if you were to hold the saw at a 90 degree angle, 20" bar vs. 16" bar would be only 4" difference...and NOBODY holds a saw at 90 degrees.

 

[peterc38]

I must disagree about the benefit of a longer bar for trimming up stuff on the ground, to me the longer bar would just mean I would be more likely to run the tip into dirt. Come on now...even if you were to hold the saw at a 90 degree angle, 20" bar vs. 16" bar would be only 4" difference...and NOBODY holds a saw at 90 degrees.

The OP is cutting up a 9 cord load. Typically, these are laid cross wise across 2-3 stringers and are not "on the ground". I have cut up many loads like this and like the longer bar for working the ends of the pile. It does reduce the amount of bending over.

 

[Redbug]

If it were me...I would get another saw with a shorter bar. There are many times when two saws are needed. Sometimes one stops running for one reason or another. Maybe one saw gets pinched in a kerf. Having a backup is good reasoning.

I have several Stihls. They all have the same spark plug number, and the bars and chains are interchangeable between saws. If you get another saw, make sure the new saw has the same chain pitch and gauge, and the bars can be swapped. The same tools and files can be used on both saws. That way you are more versatile.

 

[oosik]

I still have three saws from days when I cut firewood for heat. A Husk - 20', a Stihl - 20" and a Stihl - 14". I used to have a Stihl 66 with a 38" bar for cutting the huge Ponderosa pine on the property. I got rid of that - it could have been a real toe lopper. I only use the saws with the longer bars now if I occasionally have to fall a big tree. The little one is used to thin the small pines so I can chip them. I got the little Stihl because it is so much lighter and easier to use as I thin the stands of small pines. I used the larger Stihl to thin but I would soon get tired - and dangerous.
When fallen larger pines I always like a second saw. It was a lot easier to remove a pinched saw with a second saw.

 

[dmccarty]

I don't have the money for more than one saw so I make do with one. I do have multiple bars and chains which has come in handy when I pinch a bar/chain so bad I could not remove the saw. With another bar and chain you just have to remove the saw engine and put on the replacement bar/chain and fix the pinch. Thankfully, I have not had to do this often. A second saw would be faster but I cannot justify the money even though it would be real nice to have a smaller, lighter saw for topping off trees. Plus it is one more engine to feed.

I have thought about getting a smaller bar and chain but the weight savings for my 048 would be minimal and I like the current balance of the 20 inch bar/chain. The 20 inch bar is about right size for me when having to cut close too, or on, the ground. The bar size minimizes bending over, which not only stresses your back and legs, but is dangerous. I try to kneel or squat to minimize/prevent bending over. Usually when I am topping off a tree, I will go from the smaller limbs to cutting the trunk where I need the 20 inch bar.

Danged if I do, danged if I don't. :laughing::laughing::laughing:

Later,
Dan

 

[JDgreen227]

The OP is cutting up a 9 cord load. Typically, these are laid cross wise across 2-3 stringers and are not "on the ground". I have cut up many loads like this and like the longer bar for working the ends of the pile. It does reduce the amount of bending over.

Respectfully disagree as OP in NO WAY said he was doing TYPICAL (emphasis added) cutting with the stringers you mention. Therefore I stand by (pun intended) my opinion.

 

[peterc38]

Respectfully disagree as OP in NO WAY said he was doing TYPICAL (emphasis added) cutting with the stringers you mention. Therefore I stand by (pun intended) my opinion.

Understood, I knew what he was doing because the OP previously posted about purchasing & processing tree length firewood and also his close geographical proximity to me so I know how he would have received his load.

 

[Pilot]

Kickback? I would expect kickback to be more of a hazard with a longer bar, because the chain at the tip of the bar has more leverage. Tell me why a shorter bar would be worse.

I second the notion of a second, smaller saw, but of course it depends on the size wood you are cutting. I do 80% of my cutting I do with my shindaiwa 357 which has about a 16" bar. It's an arborist saw with a top handle. Weighs 8 pounds. Easy to use, has never, never kicked back. I don't tire as easily with it compared to my Stihl 029 which has a 20" bar. For 15% of my cutting I use a pruning saw (now made by Echo) which allows me to reach to 13' high, but is also handy for limbing down trees when there are a mess of limbs. The Stihl, I only use when I have to and given it's weight and power, it kinda has a mind of it's own and I consider it to be the most dangerous saw I own. At 70 years old, I can't work as long & hard as I used to but I can keep going a lot longer with the Shindaiwa.

 

[peterc38]

If it were me...I would get another saw with a shorter bar. There are many times when two saws are needed. Sometimes one stops running for one reason or another. Maybe one saw gets pinched in a kerf. Having a backup is good reasoning.

This is good advice. I cut 20-30 cords of firewood a year solo and it really is nice to have more than one saw.

 

[JDgreen227]

This is good advice. I cut 20-30 cords of firewood a year solo and it really is nice to have more than one saw.

Agree 100%....I never cut real firewood, just branches that are broken off from windstorms and doing tree trimming and as careful as I am, there have been dozens of times I have hung up a saw bar so it's nice to have a second saw. What I REALLY hate is when I am almost done with undercutting a good size branch and the saw runs out of gas at exactly the wrong time and the bar hangs up...:laughing:

 

[DeereMann]

Recommend a 16" bar for your 029. It is the most common mid-size bar, according to my Stihl dealer, & I believe him. I use my 026 with 16" bar for 60% of my cutting, along with my little 018 for limbing.

Like other posters, I only use the big hog for big bucking jobs (MS460), and that's only 10% of the time.

You'll like the 16" bar for all-around usage!

 

[MossRoad]

Let's do the math here.
New chainsaw = $$$$
16" bar and chain is only $40.00 on sale. Let's say $50 with shipping.
Bar & Chain Combo, 16" - Rakuten.com Shopping
Even shortening your long 5 long chains down to 16" at $5.00 a pop = $25.00 and you can't make them long again if you decide you don't like it.

Get a 16" bar and chain and try it before spending a bunch of money.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I have never had a chainsaw with a bar longer than 18" and never wanted one because I don't do serious cutting, indeed, most of my saw use now is with a 14" bar and chain fitted to a 42cc Craftsman. About kickback....what's kickback? Have always used low-kickback chains and although cutting performance is reduced I don't care because trading off speed for safety is a fair deal IMO.

I must disagree about the benefit of a longer bar for trimming up stuff on the ground, to me the longer bar would just mean I would be more likely to run the tip into dirt. Come on now...even if you were to hold the saw at a 90 degree angle, 20" bar vs. 16" bar would be only 4" difference...and NOBODY holds a saw at 90 degrees.

Where to begin? Please take this as friendly advise.
I agree that you don't do serious cutting. I, on the other hand, have work to do and can't spend all day on one or two cuts. I don't use any " low Kickback chains" as they might as well be called "No cut chains" . Instead I use the most aggressive chains they have and file the clearers down 10 to 20 thousandths at the first filing to get them to cut decent thickness chips.
As to bar length I am 6' 4"tall and when I hold a twenty inch saw straight down from my extended right arm the tip is just off the ground. If you're shorter you will have to adjust accordingly.
If you run a saw tip into the ground it is your fault. Not the bar length, the chain, the log your height or the guy watching you cut. Your the one running the saw.
The kickback math is not self evident. It has something to do with the angle and velocity of the tooth coming around the bar tip as it hits the offending limb. A short bar saw will snap around the rotation point of your right hand and put the bar into your forehead if you were imprudent enough to hold your head in the line of rotation. The longer bars both counter balance the torque involved and increase the distance the bar tip has to travel letting the chain break have more milliseconds to do it's job. Limb out a few tops with the same saw with two different bar lengths and you will see the difference.
Keep your left hand firmly on the handle and look to see where the spring tension is before you cut into the wood.

 

[allen6634]

from my experience i have found that a shorter bar has a smaller chain (it uses a smaller file meaning it takes less of a bite) the smaller bar chain will cut slower, and cause less drag on your saw , you might be making it easier on your saw but think about your back ,i have two saws, in my building, one small, (meaning short bar/ chain ) and the other at lest 20" i use the big saw to fell and cut up the trunks and i use the small to lim and cut smaller stuff the smaller of my two is much cheaper to buy but it also cost me more in fuel and oil to run the smaller is the first to give me trouble.

 

[turnkey4099]

from my experience i have found that a shorter bar has a smaller chain (it uses a smaller file meaning it takes less of a bite) the smaller bar chain will cut slower, and cause less drag on your saw , you might be making it easier on your saw but think about your back ,i have two saws, in my building, one small, (meaning short bar/ chain ) and the other at lest 20" i use the big saw to fell and cut up the trunks and i use the small to lim and cut smaller stuff the smaller of my two is much cheaper to buy but it also cost me more in fuel and oil to run the smaller is the first to give me trouble.

Length of bar really has nothing to do with the size of chain. In one way you are right, shorter bars _usually_ go on smaller saws and use smaller chain. However in the OP's case the same size chain will be used with both the longer and shorter bar.

I now have 3 sizes of chain, 3/8" 050
.325 ???

and some really small chain for my top handle 182T Stihl.

Harry K