Chainsaw chain sharpening.......
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John_Mc
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I am a little behind the news
I'm often accused of living in the past myself.
CobyRupert
Super Member
Electrolux? The vacuum cleaner company?
We had one of those and I can tell you, their products really sucked !!
...literally!
John_Mc
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I think you will be happy with it. It's very easy to use, and you can get good results without having to spend a lot of time learning the technique. There are some minor compromises with this design of sharpening guide, but they are dwarfed by how easy it is to get good results. A stump vise (or other means of holding the saw in place) can really help you get good results, since you can focus solely on the sharpening, rather than also trying to figure out how to hold the saw still.
Due to how the Pferd/Stihl tool sets the depth gauge (aka "raker") heights, with that tool it's important to keep your cutters about the same length. I'm not talking about measuring them with a micrometer or anything, but if you notice that the cutters on one side are getting longer than the other, it's worth it taking a couple extra strokes off the longer ones to bring them back close again. Other hand sharpening systems use what is known as progressive depth gauge height: the distance between the top of the tooth and the top of the cutter varies depending on how far back the cutter has been filed, and the depth gauge is set solely in reference to the tooth it precedes, rather than by laying a gauge across two teeth and measuring down from that (a constant height depth gauge setting system). The former compensates for differing lengths of cutters, allowing them to be different lengths (within reason) without causing problems. The latter (bridging over multiple teeth and measuring down from there) requires that the teeth all be very close to the same length. A progressive gauge also compensates for the different cutting geometry that is formed when the teeth are filed way back, maintaining the chain's performance as the teeth are filed back.
Someone earlier mentioned how few landowners really have the knack for freehand filing (i.e. filing with just a bare round file using no guides or jigs). I would add that there are not all that many people who use a saw professionally who can really get excellent results when sharpening freehand. There are plenty of folks who think they are really good at it. In reality, most are not all that good, or are inconsistent (this does not stop them from sneering at those who use a guide and making some comment like "that's OK if you still need training wheels"). In my life, I have met 3 people who can reliably get results as good as or better than a new out of the box chain with their freehand filing. I've used chains they sharpened multiple times, and have always been impressed. Interestingly, one of them is "just" a landowner, one of them is a pro logger, and one of them is a chainsaw race competitor (and he files his race chains differently than he does his work chains). Sure, lots of people can make a more "aggressive" chain (that's easy). In my book, "aggressive" does not necessarily mean better. I want a chain that's consistent, holds up well, and that is not hard on me or the equipment. With a good guide, most people can learn - in a relatively short time - how to match or beat out-of-the-box performance and reliability. Yes, it's possible to go beyond that with freehand sharpening, but it takes some dedicated time to learn the technique.
s219
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I couldn't imagine not hand filing. When I am cutting all day long, I have to sharpen the chain at least twice, maybe more if the wood is dirty (in which case I'd switch to semi-chisel to get more life between sharpenings).
The only time I use my grinder is when a chain gets really damaged** and I want to salvage it. That normally involves taking off a fair amount of metal, and reduces the life of the chain but is still better than throwing it away. I couldn't imagine using the grinder all the time as a routine practice though.
I think a very basic way to tell if you are filing OK is to look for the difference in performance from before to after. The chain should be throwing nice fluffy chips and cut straight with no bias. Also, if you eventually file the chain to end of life (nothing left to file past the mark) with the edge still parallel to the reference line and all cutters about the same, then it's a good indication you've been filing right. I can't see a way to get to that condition if the filing has been uneven, sloppy, or bad along the way. These things have a way of auto-checking themselves.
I normally only take down the rakers every 3rd or 4th filing, or if I detect that the chain isn't cutting aggressively enough. One of the doodads in my toolbox is a little gauge that lays over the cutters and gives a quick eyeball of the raker depth. Typically I am taking off no more than about 1/3 or 1/2 the thickness of a credit card.
** Regarding damage, the worst is when I hit a piece of metal in the wood, but I also did a number on a chain by grabbing the wrong file one time. I tried using a file for my 3/8" chain on some 0.325" chain because I forgot which saw I was using. It sort of worked but was awful stubborn. I realized what I'd done after about 5-6 cutters, at which point I removed that chain from the saw and hung it on a nail in my barn. That's were damaged chains go to wait for the grinder.
The only time I use my grinder is when a chain gets really damaged** and I want to salvage it. That normally involves taking off a fair amount of metal, and reduces the life of the chain but is still better than throwing it away. I couldn't imagine using the grinder all the time as a routine practice though.
I think a very basic way to tell if you are filing OK is to look for the difference in performance from before to after. The chain should be throwing nice fluffy chips and cut straight with no bias. Also, if you eventually file the chain to end of life (nothing left to file past the mark) with the edge still parallel to the reference line and all cutters about the same, then it's a good indication you've been filing right. I can't see a way to get to that condition if the filing has been uneven, sloppy, or bad along the way. These things have a way of auto-checking themselves.
I normally only take down the rakers every 3rd or 4th filing, or if I detect that the chain isn't cutting aggressively enough. One of the doodads in my toolbox is a little gauge that lays over the cutters and gives a quick eyeball of the raker depth. Typically I am taking off no more than about 1/3 or 1/2 the thickness of a credit card.
** Regarding damage, the worst is when I hit a piece of metal in the wood, but I also did a number on a chain by grabbing the wrong file one time. I tried using a file for my 3/8" chain on some 0.325" chain because I forgot which saw I was using. It sort of worked but was awful stubborn. I realized what I'd done after about 5-6 cutters, at which point I removed that chain from the saw and hung it on a nail in my barn. That's were damaged chains go to wait for the grinder.
s219
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BTW, I remember having an issue with some cheapo "hobby" chain I had bought from Bailey's one time. I forget the name, something like arborist-pro. It cut fine out of the box, but after a few sharpenings the saw was making really curved cuts and it got so bad that the bar couldn't steer through the curve, so once the saw cut down about half as deep as the bar was wide, the bar would just bind up. Confused me until I saw what was happening. I finally took a look and realized the chain had slightly different cutters left and right, and one was obviously a lot softer metal. That chain went to the trash.
PILOON
Super Star Member
This topic bleeds more prejudice than the HST versus Gear discussions. Everyone is an expert.
LOL, just waiting for somebody to praise his Mac 10!
In French we called them Mayqu'aparte (translated=when it starts) Guess the English term would be POS
ericm979
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I've had good results with Bailey's house brand chain the last couple years. It does not stay sharp quite as long as Stihl chain but it's close, and it costs less. Supposedly it's made by Carlton now.
The biggest difference is, one needs a battery, the other difference Granberg is a lot cheaper but if I had to file by hand the Timberline seem like a good option to me. There's something about filing I just cant stand, maybe it's the back&forth motion I dont like.
Timberline VS Granberg g112xt sharpener which is better how to which one to buy - YouTube
Timberline VS Granberg g112xt sharpener which is better how to which one to buy - YouTube
Sawyer Rob
Super Member
I hate it too, and never do it!!
I just carry a couple extra chains and change as needed, then grind them when I feel like it.
SR
