Chainsaw selection... ideas?

   / Chainsaw selection... ideas? #91  
Just got reminded of the Texas Chainsaw Massacar movie. lolz
 
   / Chainsaw selection... ideas? #92  
I had Solo 651 from Baileys - yellow - and it was nothing but trouble.

When it finally died, wife got me 455 Husqvarna. Love that thing, strong like an ox and light enough.

I still have some chains and bar left from the Solo, it was narrow kerf. I replaced the sprocket on the Husqvarna and run the 20" Solo bar with narrow kerf chain on it. That thing is an animal, I maybe never go back to original 3/8 chain again.
 
   / Chainsaw selection... ideas? #93  
I had Solo 651 from Baileys - yellow - and it was nothing but trouble.

When it finally died, wife got me 455 Husqvarna. Love that thing, strong like an ox and light enough.

I still have some chains and bar left from the Solo, it was narrow kerf. I replaced the sprocket on the Husqvarna and run the 20" Solo bar with narrow kerf chain on it. That thing is an animal, I maybe never go back to original 3/8 chain again.

I have a 455 as my backup saw, and the thing is ultra reliable and runs good. My Dolmar 5105 is much more temperamental, but when running right it will make circles around the 455. I will never get rid of the 455, because it is always ready to go when I need it.
 
   / Chainsaw selection... ideas? #94  
If it's a two cycle engine, make sure that you put a big label near the gas tank to use 50:1 gas-oil mixture.
I recently nearly lost my Echo chainsaw by accidentally putting straight gas into it. I had a paper label warning me to use the 50:1 but the words '50:1' had faded and in my haste I only saw the word 'gas'. Anyhow, within ten minutes the engine rings had so heated that they welded themselves to the cylinder and the engine seized.
The desperation fix was to remove the plug and hang the chainsaw with blaster in the cylinder for a week. Then I removed the rope starter assembly and put a socket wrench on the nut. I was ready to use an impact wrench if necessary but only a slight tug broke it loose.
The engine started on the second pull of the rope.
 
   / Chainsaw selection... ideas? #95  
One great trick I learned for stopping the piston - like when you take the clutch off - is to feed piece of rope into the cylinder via spark plug hole. Rope is soft enough to stop the piston safely.
 
   / Chainsaw selection... ideas? #96  
Well I hate to say this, but I have a little Husky 235. Allot of plastic and it does NOT start every time. Maybe after 5 or six. Pretty new unit too. Not impressed with its ability to cut either.
So my next new purchase will be a Stihl.
 
   / Chainsaw selection... ideas? #97  
If you ever get to tear down a 372 or other saw that has been run on 50:1 you will see why 40:1 is a better option. Bearings need lubricant and 50:1 is a epa thing IMO. Look for the oil residue on your bearings on a saw run at 50 :laughing:. It's your saw and your money :licking:. Pay me now or pay me later :thumbsup:. I run at 32:1 and never past 40:1.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWjZ1yDgMVI
 
   / Chainsaw selection... ideas? #98  
If you ever get to tear down a 372 or other saw that has been run on 50:1 you will see why 40:1 is a better option. Bearings need lubricant and 50:1 is a epa thing IMO. Look for the oil residue on your bearings on a saw run at 50 :laughing:. It's your saw and your money :licking:. Pay me now or pay me later :thumbsup:. I run at 32:1 and never past 40:1.

YouTube - Husqvarna 372xp testing 79 chain carb set richer

For me and the extra few cents it costs I'll burn a little extra oil to make sure there's enough in there to coat the walls and keep the bearings lubed up.
 
   / Chainsaw selection... ideas? #99  
So the 019T is a Canadian version/ model #?

The 019 & the 020 were the top handle platform used before the 192's & 200's, many sold here in the states, plenty are still going strong as long as they were not owned by a tree service company!
 
   / Chainsaw selection... ideas? #100  
Husqvarna Rancher. (55 I believe). One of the best! It has a cast motor housing, unlike the plastic ones they went to, then covered with metal! It works very well and really does the job. You would have to buy a used one as they aren't made any more.
Six:)

The 346xp or the 353 is probably the closest thing to your 55 (power wise & mag case) for the price, but they're much higher priced than your 55 was (they are both lighter too).

Well I hate to say this, but I have a little Husky 235. Allot of plastic and it does NOT start every time. Maybe after 5 or six. Pretty new unit too. Not impressed with its ability to cut either.
So my next new purchase will be a Stihl.

This is a homeowner type saw, kind of the disposable line! Think Poulan Wild thing!

If you ever get to tear down a 372 or other saw that has been run on 50:1 you will see why 40:1 is a better option. Bearings need lubricant and 50:1 is a epa thing IMO. Look for the oil residue on your bearings on a saw run at 50 :laughing:. It's your saw and your money :licking:. Pay me now or pay me later :thumbsup:. I run at 32:1 and never past 40:1.

YouTube - Husqvarna 372xp testing 79 chain carb set richer


I've got (2) 372's, a 2000 model and a 2002 model year (and several others both Husqvarna and Stihl 14" to 36" than I care to list); I run 50:1 in them and always have, no problems here, I just make sure I always use good mix & never use and old mix; of course I go through fuel like crazy so it never has a chance to get old! I have had several saws apart and have found on the 372's it's usually just a re-ring & go. I have seen some come in that are in need of seals, usually due to never cleaning the saw. A little air goes a long way in helping the life span of a saw. Even a Pro saw can be ruined by poor maintenance! Keep your fuel lines fresh, change the filters regularly, never use old mix (or cheap 2 cycle mix) & keep on cutting.
 

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