Chainsaw sharpening machine

westbrooklawn · Mar 30, 2010

Jim Morrissey -

Thanks for the catch on the spelling error in my original post for arboristsite.com... I try to proof my posts before I Submit them, but I obviously missed that one. Arboristsite is a wealth of knowledge for anything chainsaw related... one of my favorite sites....

6thgpSF · Mar 31, 2010

yes I did BigE,at a local farm store in topeka.I payed almost that amount for a gallon of sthil bar oil.for the price of it I thought I'd give it a try,I've always used a file and guide but the grinder works pretty good. russ

BigE_ · Mar 31, 2010

The Stihl bar oil isn't worth the extra money. I buy mine at BiMart on sale for $6.39 per gallon. It's all 30W stuff with some tackiness stuff added.

I do buy the Stihl two-stroke oil, but between the Stihl, Echo, and Husky two-stroke oil, I don't think there's much difference. I don't use the synthetic two-stroke because it biodegrades at the rate of 1% per day, and there are times I'll go 2-3 weeks without cutting.

RobertN · Apr 1, 2010

Can you expand on that? Why is it not worth the extra money?

BigE_ said:
The Stihl bar oil isn't worth the extra money.

BigE_ · Apr 2, 2010

RobertN said:
Can you expand on that? Why is it not worth the extra money?

There isn't anything special about bar oil. It's all 30W, with some tackifier added. You are basically paying for the Stihl brand that they threw on the oil. OK, maybe if you are working in extremely cold weather, then getting the winter version is worth the extra money, but in general, save your pennies.

Heck, people have been using straight 30W oil for years, canola oil, even used motor oil (properly filtered). Now, I don't advocate doing any of that (maybe straight 30W), but if they can get by with straight motor oil for 30 years with no issues, I'm pretty sure that getting the Stihl branded isn't worth the extra cash.

BigE_ · Apr 2, 2010

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=127434

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=106662

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=38827

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=131533

LD1 · Apr 2, 2010

I agree in not buying the stihl bar oil.

About the best that I have found is the TSC brand stuff. It's about the stickiest/tackiest that I have found and @ $6 per gallon it is about half the price of stihl/husqvarna brand oil.

We cut about 20-25 cord of firewood per year and I have no trouble at all getting 5-6 years out of a bar. Chain life is good too. I can run a ghain until the teeth are almost filed off and not have any problems with stretch/overheating.

Just be sure to keep the groove and oil hole in the bar clean and your all set.

RobertN · Apr 3, 2010

My experience is that Stihl Chains with Stihl oil are exceptional cutters. Had good luck with Husky oil too.

I have used other bar oils on occasion, but seemed to go thru it faster, and the chain did not stay as sharp as long as I am used to.

I do not have any data that says the less expensive oils are not good. When I have used them the worked, I just went thru more, which makes it closer in price per overall hours the chainsaw is run. However, on the other side of the coin, I have not seen any data to indicate that the extra expense of Stihl or Husky oil is money wasted. Also, the Husky and Stihl dealers are closer than the other places, so by the time I drive to the cheaper stuff, it is a wash for me.

My saws are all pro saws. Albeit, two are older ones. But all of them would cost $450-1000 each to replace; so I use what I believe is the best oils. If, they were $150 homeowner saws, then I might not worry about it much.

BigE_ said:
There isn't anything special about bar oil. It's all 30W, with some tackifier added. You are basically paying for the Stihl brand that they threw on the oil. OK, maybe if you are working in extremely cold weather, then getting the winter version is worth the extra money, but in general, save your pennies.

Natureboy · Apr 4, 2010

beenthere said:
Save yourself the grief (and expense) and file by hand. By the time you spend setting up a chain grinder to do a good job (much harder to do with the HF or the NT chinese knock-offs), you will have chewed up a lot of good chainsaw teeth in the process.

A stroke or two with a good file and some of the simple jigs to either hold or guide the file are easy to master and will maintain a sharp chain better than any grinder. IMO

Here is the jig I use that is simple, cheap, and works the best of the many that I've used over the past 40+ years. Made by Pferd, and sold through Husqavarna

Amen to that! Been using a file for years. Only time I take them in to be sharpened is when I accidentally put one in the dirt.

20 20 · Apr 4, 2010

RobertN; I have a stupid question, how do you go through more bar oil when using cheaper/other oils? If the regulater is set to only push____amount of oil then how does it change from brand to brand? Not trying to be a jerk just curious.

In the past, I have used old motor oil{from oil changes}. I have used bar oil mixed with used oil. And of course I've just used bar oil. I've never noticed a consumtion change just a performance change. I go to wood days in upstate NY every year, they have great deals on bar oil,.,.,. usually buy a case @ a time.