Change to Syn

StoneHeartFarm · Sep 26, 2003

( Oil is oil and no one can realy say one oil will make an engine last any longer than the next because oil constantly changes. Mobil 1 says that they got 300K out of a bmw with there product but who knows it might of done that with brand x.
)

I've got 329k miles on a 91 Cavalier 4cyl, running straight Quaker State 10w-40. Had the car from the first oil change to the last, and the only oil that might not have been Quaker was the factory oil. The engine was also tefloned at 50k and every 50k after and used either FRAM or AC filters. I would still be driving it, but the darn road salt rusted it out so bad that the inside of the the door handle broke and I couldn' get in anymore. So I had to trade it. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

I think this is one of those personal choice questions (kind of like color). Use what you're comfortable with.

Steve

Junkman · Sep 26, 2003

Read this article for information about using "Teflon" in an engine........ even the manufacturer, DuPont, doesn't recommend it......
General Motors doesn't recommend it.........

Teflon article..

gsxr1100 · Sep 26, 2003

Not starting yet another oil war but teflon is bad for a engine and last I read and heard FRAM oil filters are about the worst to get.

Good oil filters are (not in order); Fleetguard, Amsoil, Mobil, and I think A/C are pretty good.

Boondox · Sep 26, 2003

( Not starting yet another oil war but teflon is bad for a engine and last I read and heard FRAM oil filters are about the worst to get.

Good oil filters are (not in order); Fleetguard, Amsoil, Mobil, and I think A/C are pretty good. )

And the Purolator Pure One is rated excellent as well.

Bird · Sep 26, 2003

Yep, Steve, for the last 12 years (until the first of this year), I've been running Quaker State in everything I've owned except the '99 Kubota; 10W-30 until they came out with the 10W-40 and 10W-40 from then on. And I even used those old sorry Fram filters nearly all the time, too. And I've never had a lubrication related problem; in fact, never had the rocker arm covers or oil pan off any of my equipment. Of course, I didn't run mine as many miles before trading as you did; only 40k to 158k miles. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

But since I moved back to town, I've been letting the Ford dealer change the oil & filter and use "ginuwine" FOMO filters and their 10W-20 oil that they recommend for these later models. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

StoneHeartFarm · Sep 28, 2003

Bird, you know when I started putting oil in things, I was told to never use Pennzoil. That was the "bad" oil. Only use Quaker, that was the "good" oil. Fram filters were state of the art. Now, there's 8 million designer gourmet oils and everybody gets their pick. Plus, there's all kinds of filters and even different levels of quality with filters brands. Fram now runs regular, extra guard, tough guard, x2 and double guard.

The double guard even comes with Teflon already inside: Fram filers

Steve

Bird · Sep 28, 2003

Yep, Steve, things have changed a bit since I was selling Wix, Purolator, AC, and Fram oil filters in my dad's service stations and auto parts store. Fram was the biggest seller. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif And I've known lots of folks who would not use Pennzoil; used to be a fellow come to the National Association of Fleet Administrators conventions who always had a booth demonstrating and selling his oil "additive" (he said it wasn't an additive; it was a lubricant) and he demonstrated by whipping oil into foam in a pie pan with an ordinary eggbeater, then add a little of his "snake oil" (his own words for it /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif) and it wouldn't foam. He said he always used Pennzoil for his demonstrations because it would foam more than any other brand. He also claimed that caused cavitation in oil pumps. Now I don't know whether he was right or not. And when I was a youngster, I heard from lots of mechanics that Amalie was the oil to stay away from, but that may simply have been because "non-detergent" Amalie was a big seller and the newer cars in those days were coming out with hydraulic lifters and needed a detergent oil.

So you've got to know not only what folks recommend, but why and for what application, and I sure don't know enough to say one's better than another; just know what's worked for me.

And when we had the auto parts store, we sold lots of products that we would never recommend to anyone, but if they wanted'em, we had'em, and sold all with a money back guarantee. The only oil type products we had people requesting their money back was those who bought Wynn's Oil products. We refunded their money, but Wynn refused to refund our money and we quit handling any of their products, and of course I still have no idea whether the products were any good or not.

BillyP · Sep 28, 2003

TresCrows, you're gonna love this!

I have a Nissan 4x4 farm truck that is strictly used for farm work. I don't put many miles on it but it gets plenty of short trips (maybe 2,000 miles a year and that's stretching it). So I thought I'd try a synthetic. Went to Wally World with the intention of buying Rotella syn but all they had were gallons and I needed 5 quarts. I see a display of Mobil 1, in the 5 quart size. I change oil and have about 200 miles on it so far.

I do believe the gas mileage has improved but it's too early to tell. Before the oil change (with Castrol) it would get about 10 to 12 miles per gallon. That's not much mileage at all but you have to take into consideration that most trips are less than a mile.

Anyway, time Will tell...

StoneHeartFarm · Sep 28, 2003

Bird,

Sounds a lot like the little display boxes they have set up in all the autoparts around here. It is a clear box with a crank handle that runs a paddle inside. You can watch it go around through the oil and that way you can see how good the product is. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Things never really change, do they?

Steve