Changing engine oil... Amsoil

[BobG_in_VA]

I'd change it at 25hrs (oil and filter). Then change again at 50hrs for 50 hour service. As glawal says, if you gotta go with syn, wait till 100 hours. The real deal with diesels is don't run a newish diesel without load for very long. I found that a 7 foot brushhog at about 1500 rpm in 3ft grass in 4L is a good moderate load that will keep your diesel doing what it is intended to do. I do love to hear a good diesel bark when the governer starts to open. BobG in VA

 

[SonnieP]

Sounds like a plan to me.

Thanks for the info.

 

[Maine_Polack]

Did the 50 hr. on my 65004wd a couple of weeks ago. I also questioned the hours listed in the maintenance schedule. Talked to the factory techs. They strongly felt that ALL fluids be changed at 50 hrs.

I changed Engine oil, Transmission, Hydraulic, Front axle, Front wheel hubs, and Power Steering fluids, and all filters. The manual seems to be lacking in this area. Some are listed and some -including the Engine oil- are not.

I did question them on changing the Power Steering fluid and filter, They did affirm that the manual was correct on this point and both should be changed at 50 hr.

My dealer says to change Engine oil every 50 Hrs. The manual says every 250 hrs. The techs said 250 hrs was correct. I guess it is a personal thing.

I drained fuel from the tank and the filters to get rid of water. Think it is necessary to drain from tank on a reg. basis? Seems that the water drain screws on the bottom of the filters should take care of the water. Any opinions?

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Maine: Might I ask how much this massive changout cost???
Did you remember to use the right additive package to the front end limited slip differential fluid? Did you use 80-90 gear oil or 85-140? (Just wonderin' as I've got to do the front differential and the trans fluid myself in a few hours (book recomments at 200 hrs for the 6000--mine's a '02 model so the numbers may have changed). BobG in VA

 

[SonnieP]

I be interested in knowing what brand and weight you used on each oil and/or fluid changed.

 

[Maine_Polack]

Hi Bob,

I got all oils and filters, excepot Power steering filter, as part of the purchase.

For the engine, I used a 15-40w heavy duty diesel engine oil.
Used most of 3 gals.

At the techs and dealers recommendation, I used trans-hyd. oil for the transmission, hydralics, axle and wheels. Figure on 15 gals. of trans-hyd oil, and should have a gal or 2 left over.

The power steering filter -small -paper inside, surrounded by tin cost $23. Too much for this small filter.

Also, I might add that since I have a loader on, the return line is tapped into the hyd. drain. Instead of messing with this connection , I would suggest draining from the filter.

I am by no means a mechanic. I just investigated and did what was recommended. I'm sure that there are many opinions as when, and what to change, etc.

I do know that it took a lot of time to do the service. One day for changing fluids alone. Another for other things. And when I was all done My son and I spent 2-3 hours each going over every connection/bolt and nut etc. Did find a few that needed tightening.

I'm sure that other people could do it a lot faster, but I work slow and deliberate when it comes to things like this, so as to not cause myself any unneccessary troubles.

 

[Tim_in_IA]

Maine that is interesting that they recommend trans-hyd fluid for the all those tractor parts. I had to pick up some hyd fluid when I changed out my backhoe filter and lost 2 gallons in the process! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Anyway, I got regular hyd fluid since I wasn't putting it in a tractor that used the trans case as a resivoir, and since it was the backhoe which is an isolated system. After reading your post I'll be inclined to get the trans-hyd fluid anyway. Does anyone know what the real difference is?

This would work out good for me anyway as I share implements with my dad who uses IH tractors that use the tranny as a resivior.

 

[wiam]

Tim, trans-hyd has anti foam agents in it. Otherwise the gears turning will make foam.

Will

 

[Nightrain1]

After reading this thread and some posters saying not to break in a new motor on synthetics, which I agree with, but I wonder how come chevy corvettes come factory with synthetic oil?

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Porsche as well....those engines are "tooled" to much closer tolerances than the standard run of the mill engine, gas or diesel. Corvette engines cost about half of the car and are adequately run in prior to shipment. Most cyl sleaves have hone marks and microscopic imperfections which the fossil oil and rings ultimately wear down to a smoother tolerance. Corvettes/Porsches, etc are "smoother" to start with. BobG in VA