Changing engine oil... Amsoil

[SonnieP]

The manual recommends changing the engine oil out at 250hrs along with filter. I'm considering going ahead and changing it out to the Amsoil 15W40 now... with less than 10hrs. I don't want to wait 250hrs or a year before I do this... I'd rather have the better oil in there now. The manual says it holds 2.5 gallons.

Has anyone else done this? Is it okay to leave the current oil filter on or should I change it too, and if so, to what brand?

Thanks!

 

[Tim_SATex]

Just a thought. I might would wait until about 20-25 hours to make sure you get the majority of the initial manufacturing contaminents out of the engine. Then change the oil and filter and enjoy for the next year or 250 hours which ever comes first.....

Sorry, don't kow anything about the filters. Hoping to maybe learn soon, seriously considering the 6000. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[SonnieP]

That sounds like good advice. Thanks!

I have to change out the transmission oil at 50 hours so I may just do it all then.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

I've got a 6000. The operators manual says change at 50 hours. I changed the oil/filiter at 23 hours and then again at 50couple. Every 100 hours after that wilh filter on alternate changes. I use Chevron Delo 400 15-40. If you are going to use synthetic, you need to run-in the rings until they are well seated or you could be using a lot oil later. Just my observation. These engines do not turn up a bunch of rpms, and are somewhat "cold blooded" (takes a while to get up to rated temps). I thought about using syns at first but if you change oil regularly, you will just be spending more....Just my opinion. BobG in VA

 

[SonnieP]

I wonder why the difference in the 6000 and 6500? First oil change on the 6500 is clearly 250hrs in my manual. I left my manual at the office but I think it is for the 5500, 6000, and 6500. I'll double check that tomorrow. Reckon they've changed something lately?

I'm not too mechanically bright Bob... what do you mean by "run-in the rings until they are well seated"???

I don't know that I'll put 250hrs per year on mine so I suspect I'll just be changing the oil annually.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Run-in on the rings means that they have to "seat" well against the walls of the cylinder sleaves. This helps to create and maintain the compression that the diesel runs on. The oil "splashes" up or is pumped up under the pistons and splashes out of the oil ring onto the interior of the sleeve, thereby lubing it. Using synthetics in effect creates a barrier between the metal parts (ie. piston and sleeve). If the piston rings have not "seated" well against the sleeve wall, excess oil consumption can occur. I used Mobil 1 15-50 in my air cooled motorcycle, but not till I had 2500 miles on the engine. Never had to add any oil between changes and never had a puff of blue smoke. To my knowledge, all reciprical engines are the same when oil rings are employed. BobG in VA

 

[wiam]

On page 48 in my manual on the right side bottom right over a picture of the oil fill there is a " note" says first change at 50 hrs then 250.

I think even if the hrs were low I would change oil more than once per year.

Will

 

[SonnieP]

What's the bottom line Bob... how many hours would you recommend I wait?


Okay... my manual Ref. No.: 00-4WDOM/JUN-05 (I'm assuming this is dated June 2005)

It is the Operator's Manual for the '00' Series 4WD 4500/5500/6000/6500...

Pages 48-49 is Pneumatic Tires...

On page 63 under "Oil Change" it states "Change engine oil after every 250 hrs. of operation." At the bottom of the page it does however have: "Note: Engine oil and filter element must be changed after initial 50hrs of operation in a new tractor or whenever major overhaul of engine is carried out and subsequently after every 250hrs respectively."

Pages 78-79 show Routine Service Schedule... under Engine/Change Oil and Filter Element there is no dot until 250hrs and then 500hrs/750hrs/1000hrs (and in the column Since then "Every 250hrs") It shows nothing about the 50hrs there.

 

[Tim_in_IA]

the 50 hour time period is to clean out the manufacturing materials. After that, the 250 hr period is for oil quality and filter life.

 

[glawall]

Let your rings wear in to the cylinders first, at least 100 hrs.

GLaWall
Your Mahindra Tractor Dealer
Batavia, NY

 

[BobG_in_VA]

I'd change it at 25hrs (oil and filter). Then change again at 50hrs for 50 hour service. As glawal says, if you gotta go with syn, wait till 100 hours. The real deal with diesels is don't run a newish diesel without load for very long. I found that a 7 foot brushhog at about 1500 rpm in 3ft grass in 4L is a good moderate load that will keep your diesel doing what it is intended to do. I do love to hear a good diesel bark when the governer starts to open. BobG in VA

 

[SonnieP]

Sounds like a plan to me.

Thanks for the info.

 

[Maine_Polack]

Did the 50 hr. on my 65004wd a couple of weeks ago. I also questioned the hours listed in the maintenance schedule. Talked to the factory techs. They strongly felt that ALL fluids be changed at 50 hrs.

I changed Engine oil, Transmission, Hydraulic, Front axle, Front wheel hubs, and Power Steering fluids, and all filters. The manual seems to be lacking in this area. Some are listed and some -including the Engine oil- are not.

I did question them on changing the Power Steering fluid and filter, They did affirm that the manual was correct on this point and both should be changed at 50 hr.

My dealer says to change Engine oil every 50 Hrs. The manual says every 250 hrs. The techs said 250 hrs was correct. I guess it is a personal thing.

I drained fuel from the tank and the filters to get rid of water. Think it is necessary to drain from tank on a reg. basis? Seems that the water drain screws on the bottom of the filters should take care of the water. Any opinions?

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Maine: Might I ask how much this massive changout cost???
Did you remember to use the right additive package to the front end limited slip differential fluid? Did you use 80-90 gear oil or 85-140? (Just wonderin' as I've got to do the front differential and the trans fluid myself in a few hours (book recomments at 200 hrs for the 6000--mine's a '02 model so the numbers may have changed). BobG in VA

 

[SonnieP]

I be interested in knowing what brand and weight you used on each oil and/or fluid changed.

 

[Maine_Polack]

Hi Bob,

I got all oils and filters, excepot Power steering filter, as part of the purchase.

For the engine, I used a 15-40w heavy duty diesel engine oil.
Used most of 3 gals.

At the techs and dealers recommendation, I used trans-hyd. oil for the transmission, hydralics, axle and wheels. Figure on 15 gals. of trans-hyd oil, and should have a gal or 2 left over.

The power steering filter -small -paper inside, surrounded by tin cost $23. Too much for this small filter.

Also, I might add that since I have a loader on, the return line is tapped into the hyd. drain. Instead of messing with this connection , I would suggest draining from the filter.

I am by no means a mechanic. I just investigated and did what was recommended. I'm sure that there are many opinions as when, and what to change, etc.

I do know that it took a lot of time to do the service. One day for changing fluids alone. Another for other things. And when I was all done My son and I spent 2-3 hours each going over every connection/bolt and nut etc. Did find a few that needed tightening.

I'm sure that other people could do it a lot faster, but I work slow and deliberate when it comes to things like this, so as to not cause myself any unneccessary troubles.

 

[Tim_in_IA]

Maine that is interesting that they recommend trans-hyd fluid for the all those tractor parts. I had to pick up some hyd fluid when I changed out my backhoe filter and lost 2 gallons in the process! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Anyway, I got regular hyd fluid since I wasn't putting it in a tractor that used the trans case as a resivoir, and since it was the backhoe which is an isolated system. After reading your post I'll be inclined to get the trans-hyd fluid anyway. Does anyone know what the real difference is?

This would work out good for me anyway as I share implements with my dad who uses IH tractors that use the tranny as a resivior.

 

[wiam]

Tim, trans-hyd has anti foam agents in it. Otherwise the gears turning will make foam.

Will

 

[Nightrain1]

After reading this thread and some posters saying not to break in a new motor on synthetics, which I agree with, but I wonder how come chevy corvettes come factory with synthetic oil?

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Porsche as well....those engines are "tooled" to much closer tolerances than the standard run of the mill engine, gas or diesel. Corvette engines cost about half of the car and are adequately run in prior to shipment. Most cyl sleaves have hone marks and microscopic imperfections which the fossil oil and rings ultimately wear down to a smoother tolerance. Corvettes/Porsches, etc are "smoother" to start with. BobG in VA