Charging Batteries

[bmaverick]

I find it odd that no one mentioned the removal of caps (if not sealed top) prior to charging. This allows the hydrogen to freely vent from the top area that is free of acid/water mix so as not to accumulate and possibly cause an explosion when a spark occurs.

Connecting the clamps prior to plugging in the charger is a good idea but doesn't guarantee no spark if a bad connection is made but at least you wont be nearby if it does explode. Same with disconnecting, kill the power to the charger first.

The Yuausa and the Schumacher are microprocessor controlled. If you try and smack the two battery clamps together, no sparks. Likewise when placing them onto the battery. There must be something that flips a relay or something to then make a charge once the microprocessor senses things.

 

[clemsonfor]

I cooked the water out of a battery by leaving a $5 HF charger attached through the winter. They claim the current is too low to do this - but I found the top of the plates exposed when I prep'ed the tractor for use in the spring. My advice is run that model charger for only a few days at a time.

I started using the solar charger that is license-plate size. I'm not sure it does anything at all, but the battery always shows 12.5 V or better so it must do something.

I use those solar chargers and they do work. I have an old battery a co worker gave me out of his boat. Its used in my old chevy truck. Its weak now and after a week or two would not start the truck. ever since the solar charger is used it will stay topped up and will start it fine even after months of sitting. I also have one on my farm truck that may sit 6 months. the battery was dead and would not start it after it sat for over about 3-4 months, since the solar HF charger was installed no problem getting it to crank now even though it sometimes takes a good bit of cranking on that old 80's model Mitsu.

 

[Gary Fowler]

The Yuausa and the Schumacher are microprocessor controlled. If you try and smack the two battery clamps together, no sparks. Likewise when placing them onto the battery. There must be something that flips a relay or something to then make a charge once the microprocessor senses things.

I have a Schumacher charger (about 10 years old) and it makes a spark when leads are touched and when hooking to a battery. While yours may be controlled, many aren't so it is best to hook the clamps then plug it in.

 

[bmaverick]

I use those solar chargers and they do work. I have an old battery a co worker gave me out of his boat. Its used in my old chevy truck. Its weak now and after a week or two would not start the truck. ever since the solar charger is used it will stay topped up and will start it fine even after months of sitting. I also have one on my farm truck that may sit 6 months. the battery was dead and would not start it after it sat for over about 3-4 months, since the solar HF charger was installed no problem getting it to crank now even though it sometimes takes a good bit of cranking on that old 80's model Mitsu.

Sounds to me there are TWO types of Harbor Freight trickle chargers being talked about here. The cheap $5 to $9 plug-in-the-wall type sounds like it will kill a battery over time. I would have to concur as postings on the HF site for the product says this and other forums. The other HF trickle charger being mentioned is a solar one with a solar panel. This sounds more ideal and it actually works.

 

[California]

I went and looked at the $15 HF 'license plate' solar charger. Looks like the one I bought there 5+ years ago.

It's rated 1.5 watts, 24 volts. Mathematically that's 1/8 of an amp maximum output with ideal conditions.

This is about what I expected, suitable to offset a battery's native self-discharge while stored in winter but not useful to recharge a discharged battery.

And I don't expect that under normal conditions - clouds, shadows, etc - its tiny current can offset the drain in a modern automobile that has a computer running continually, monitoring for a remote key unlock etc. So I think it's best suited for an 'old school' application that has zero current drain while the vehicle is not in use.

 

[dragoneggs]

I'm no expert on battery charging but I use a 'battery tender' on my tractor battery when siting long periods over winter. Does a great job and available at Costco often. I use a battery charger to charge auto batteries that I believe is maxed out at 5 amps. Trickle charging I have been told is always best/safest way to charge. To jump start, I agree with earlier posts here to connect the dead battery first, using a ground other than on the battery and then connect to the good battery.

 

[TomSeller]

I only charge battery at the 2 amp setting and also connect the ground connection away from the battery. So far so good.

 

[dragoneggs]

I only charge battery at the 2 amp setting and also connect the ground connection away from the battery. So far so good.

Yeah I should have added that I do charge mine at the 2amp setting as well.

 

[TomSeller]

Yeah I should have added that I do charge mine at the 2amp setting as well.

I learned a longtime ago that high amperage is an enemy. "Easy does it" in my book when it comes to charging batteries

 

[dragoneggs]

I learned a longtime ago that high amperage is an enemy. "Easy does it" in my book when it comes to charging batteries

Yep trickle is best!