cheap tool alert

   / cheap tool alert #21  
I buy at HF frequently. I looked at the 2 hp saw but then seen a factory refurbished "D" handle Dewalt 5hp and went with that as I had a pretty big job and needed good stuff. The saw can draw enough power to trip the breaker on larger cuts. I'm fussy about keepin' the spare blades dry as moisture can affect cutting performance big time. The saw performs well and I think I saved a $100 over the price of a new one. I've not bit the AD welding hood yet because the one I'm using now is the big screen type and I really feel when they get one of the them auto darkening I might jump on the band wagon and get one. bjr
 
   / cheap tool alert #22  
I got the 14" saw about 4 years ago and so far build two trailers with it, door for my shop (6x9 feet 1.5 tubing), bumper and tire holder for my jeep and few other things I dont remember now

It stopped working once, but I ordered new brushes from HF and it took care of this problem.


I think I got my money back few times and it is still running strong.
 
   / cheap tool alert #23  
I bought a HF autodark hood about 3 yrs ago, still works fine. As to the shade I set it about medium and strike the arc the reach up and adjust till I can see it pooling properly. I love the thing. I had about given up welding because I could not see the pool right most of the time with a standard fixed shade hood. I have a whole collection of shaded lenses, none seemed right.
On the flash, my friend says he sees a slight flash on starting the arc, I see none at all, differences in the response times of eye I suppose.
Ben
 
   / cheap tool alert #24  
Has anyone bought the 9 inch angle grinder? The plate shows 11 amps idle draw, 15 amps in use so I would think it is stronger than the chop saw. Its $39.95 on sale now.

I wonder how that would work in a fabricated cutoff-saw mounting.

I've gone in to look at it and it's extremely heavy. I wouldn't want to use it freehand for very long.
 
   / cheap tool alert #25  
Soundguy said:
I agree.. I do find it a little hard to believe about their shade timing. I will be safe when i test it.. I'll look away from the direct arc, and strick on a piece of scrap so that the helmet sensor can see the arc.. but not my eyes, and I'll see if the shade darkens so i don't get the reflection flash. if it passes that test.. i'll try another strike head on.. If it flashed me.. it's being returned.. I can use my flip down fixed #11 fine.

Soundguy

That's how I got use to mine. I have never used one before and was leary of it. The instructions that came with it said to do the same thing. Stike it a few times off to your side and watch how fast the thing darkens. Then try it a few more times as you turn your head towards the weld. I was surprised at the speed of the darkening and got comfortable that it was going to work after about 3-4 scratches. It is simply amazing (not just this helmet, but auto darkening in general) how neat this technology is. It has increased my productivity greatly, is lighter than my old fixed lens helmet and is more comfortable, too. I'm still on the #13 setting. I can see things fine but want to try it on 12 or 11 to see if I can see it better.
 
   / cheap tool alert #26  
Moss, Thanks for the URL, good info. Tends to disagree with some well intentioned good ole boys but...oh well.

There is a considerable spread in response times of helmets. I think I recall seeing times as short as 1/25000 sec, a fourtieth of a milisecond commonly but there are probably even faster ones.

Anyway, modern thought is that cumulative UV damage from normal life experience is BAD and promotes cataracts and whatever so we should wear protection. UV from welding is intense and broad spectrum and is extremely bad.

You don't get FLASHED the same through an auto lense as naked eye. Good lenses stop virtually all IR and UV even when not turned on. What comes through is not enough to be a hazard.

It would be appropriate to be concerned with cumulative effects of a naked arc with its UV and full spectrum even if accumulated a milisecond at a time over a protracted carreer. (Like when your peripheral vision gets hit when someone strikes or when with unprotected eyes you look at the blue glow, even with the actual arc obstructed.

Not the case with auto lense since it stops virtually all IR and UV. Irrespective of your personal flicker rate, if you can't see the light (with no UV in it) I don't think there is evidence of damage adding up any more than exposing your eyes to regular room lighting with no UV. Your eyes take in lots more light in a few minutes in a sunlit venue than you will get through an A-D lense during a work day.

The amount of light you are normally exposed to adds up to way more than a series of milisecond blinks. If it were going to blind you you would be blinded in a matter of hours since each second is 1000 miliseconds so one minute is 60,000 "FLASHES". 360,000 flashes per hour or 1.4 milion FLASHES in 4 hours and most of us keep our eyes open in fairly bright light for several hours a day, usually more than 4.

There is a definite difference between lots of flashes of visible light, so brief as to be invisible, and UV-IR exposure. It would seem that casual exposure in a shop to UV while you are not wearing protection would be more of a hazard than the filtered light coming in brief pulses through an A-D lense. If the light coming through the lense is not dangerous due to IR or UV and is so brief as to not be noticed, is it going to add up to something worse than normal illumination? Doesn't seem that way. Seems the more reallistic but apparently unappreciated threat to long term vision health is casual unprotected exposure to arc rays.

The medical community has established the deleterious effects of your accumulative exposure to environmental UV and basically says less is better. Arc rays are worse than environmental UV so those working around arc welders should wear eye protection. Unfortunately most welders I have seen in the workplace do not.

Eyes are important and it is best to err on the side of safety and caution but there are limits before you get into superstition and ignorance.

I too have a quite high flicker rate. I do not perceive a flash of light before the lense darkens. Neither stick nor MIG or TIG have arc startup characteristics of a steep leading edge square wave. Although the user may not perceive the "ramp up" of arc intensity, there is one. The arc doesn't start instantaneously. As the fill metal, base metal (workpiece) and the involved air and shielding gases heat up (plasma conditions) the conductivity becomes quite different from the initial discharge, much more intense. I'm not sure if this matters but the topic was breached earlier. So in that vein; a functional A-D lense will be dark before the arc reaches full output.

I do not in any way intend to lower anyones impression of the dangers of exposure to unfiltered arc rays. Eyes are precious, protect them.

About welding shades; All approved welding glass will filter the UV. The shade is selected so you can see what you are doing comfortably. If you go extra dark, supposedly for safety, to the point you can't clearly see the welding puddle and adjacent base metal you don't "GET IT." If you use too light a shade it won't give you extra UV. An arc can be extremely intense in the visible spectrum, brighter than the sun. Too light of a shade is like being in the desert or at the beach without sufficient sunglasses.

Pick a shade or adjust a variable A-D for the work at hand. One size DOES NOT FIT ALL! BIG ROD at BIG amps makes for lots of light compared to 3/32 or lighter at a few amps.

If you can't see what you are doing you wont be effective AND aren't safer than with an appropriate shade. Remember, don't look at the arc, look at the puddle! Can you see it well enough?

The recommendations for my 40 amp plasma cutter is shade 4 or 5 which is about like sun glasses. I chose 5 to cover the top end but my eyes dark adapt well fairly quickly so I don't need shade 4 for light amp work. In my opinion my A-D lense won't turn down enough as when doing low amp MIG with with wire feed gun and flux core I can barely see what I am doing and part of the time go by Braile. It claims to vary from 9-13. Everyone's eyes are different. I used to attract attention because my pupils dialate so large at night. I was thought drunk or on drugs because of it but the real deal was I had superlative night vision and still do, decades later, after welding with A-D for well over a decade.

I am extremely concerned with my eyes as I am an amature photographer, astrophotographer and astronomer. I am aware of my vision and concerned to conserve it.

If I have "missed the boat" on any of these topics, please do not be bashful, tell me. This is important stuff.

About HF or other cheap tools: Ryobi 14 inch abrasive saws aren't indestrucable either. I have three dead ones right now. OK to be fare I dropped one and broke the cheap casting and one was given to me inop. I was cutting HD 4 1/2 inch pipe to make a guard to keep friends from hitting my heat pump when parking when it literally burned up. I wasn't being particularly abusive and suddenly flames shot out of the motor vents about 12-14 inches. I released the trigger switch and placed my gloved hand over the vents to smother the fire. When I removed my hand it flashed back into flames and I covered it again, LONGER. It flashed again! I covered it for at least 10 seconds and it didn't flame again.

Maybe I can put enough pieces together to make one out of the carcasses I have. I have a nice DeWalt on a wheeled cart for shop use but used the Ryobi for portable outside or from back of a truck jobs.

WIth HF tools there is a good news bad news story: Good news you can get a cheap replacement warranty and they will exchange the tool for another one just like it if it fails, FOR FREE. The bad news is you might spend a lot of time returning the tools but they seem to be holding up better than say 10-15 years ago. I needed a high speed corded drill for pocket screw jig duty and HF fit my idea of price for the limited use I would get. I, of course, ended up using it for other tasks but so far it works as expected. NOt very HD but fast, what I needed. (Pocket screw step drills last much better if used at high RPM as per manufacturer.)

Update. Just saw helmet on eBay. 1/25,000 second darkening, defaults on malfunction to shade 16, adjusts to shade 9-13 or shade 4, solar powered, UV % of transmittance is 3.4 X 10-8 (that is 0.000000034%) and it has large view lense. This is not unique or unusual, but good.

Pat
 
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   / cheap tool alert #27  
I have the HF 14 inch abrasive cut off saw. I had a LOT of cuts to make... ran it for 2 hrs straight.... several times... I got tired before it did. So far the original 14 inch blade is down to about 5 inches... I still use it for small stuff and insert a larger blade as needed. I'm happy with it. Works for me. Once it refused to start. I rotated the brushes 180 degrees and it's been running fine ever since.

Net, the HF abrasive cutoff saw has done lots of good work for me. Real glad I got it.. about $40 on sale as I recall, including an extra set of brushes.
 
   / cheap tool alert
  • Thread Starter
#28  
I got a chance to try out my 14" saw. I cut a bunch of 1/8, and 3/16 plate, and some 1/2" flat stock. Never missed a lick.. After 2 hrs of cutting.. I was sweaty and tired. I also had picked up a new 4" angle grinder as they had been on sale. Good thing i did, cause one of my 2 died today. I have an old beater from the early 90's that is still going.. but is ragged... 90' head has a howling bearing. I have one from the late 90's that was the one that died today. One brush holder cover screw was loose.. it let the brush heat up and melted the cap.. I dug it out and could fab a replacement.. but I think I'll just put the new one in service, and then xfer the 90' head off the dead one onto my old beater.. then throw the rest of the parts into the bit box for when i need another part.. like a cord.. or motor.. etc..

I figure at 9$ and 15$ neither grinder owes me anything.. It's neat to see the old 9$ one still going on oem brushes...

Maybee tomorrow afternoon I'll get to try out the welding hood.

Soundguy
 
   / cheap tool alert #29  
glad the cutoff saw worked for you and you seem happy with it... that's my experience with HF stuff.. it just works... and there is somehow a simple elegance to the designs. I have 2 of their grinders... put wire brush on one, grinder wheel on other... no need to change out..
 
   / cheap tool alert #30  
Thanks, everyone for the heads up on the deal and for the truly enlightening discussion about the AD helmet.

I was visiting the in-laws a few hours away this weekend and there's a HF Tools store about 15 minutes from their place. The wife and everyone were have a little hen party, so out of sheer boredom I went to HF Tools and picked up the AD helmet. (I also bought another $40 worth of little odds and ends that I wanted but don't really need)

I'm not all athletic, smart, coordinated, sophisticated or whatever it takes to be special enough to have a rapid "CCF", so I think I'll be fine. I also got to thinking about it (even before I read Soundguys post about it) that for the number of times I have flashed myself with my "conventional" hood, the autodarkening helmet has to be an improvement. Then I read Patrick G's explanation about the UV IR difference with the AD helmets and I felt even better about the purchase.

I guess I need to hold off final judgement until I have actually tried it out (hopefully tomorrow night).

I love cheap tools, though. I can hardly drive past one of those traveling tool sales (cummins and homier) without stopping. They seem to be about the same quality as Harbor Freight if not a half a notch below Harbor freight. I'll almost always start with the cheap version of a tool. If I use it a lot I'll replace the cheap one with a little higher quality later on after the cheap one burns up, breaks, or wears out.

I've got to stretch my budget to get what I want. If it weren't for Harbor Freight/Cummins/Homier, I would not have been able to do most of the handywork that I do. I just couldn't afford it.
 
   / cheap tool alert #31  
Farmwithjunk said:
BIL is a welder. He told me that you need to use as dark as you can stand when doing any welding. NEVER go less than 10. He uses 11. That's what I've started using now. Anything less than 10 is OK for cutting torch or grinding.

No offense intended, but I think that I would read the tech article on the Lincoln electric site about auto darkening hoods and trust that a little more than even an experienced welder. I say that just due to the fact that liability comes into play with claims made by companies, and they would be liable and wouldn't say the oposite of that if they didn't trust the research that leads to these remarks. I mean no disrespect to Bil, but if you think about the R&D that goes into making product;especially when safety is concerned, than I would just have to go with that other than what we think ( including myself, before reading it and thinking about it a little )without carefull data to back it up. I hope I can post this link propperly. Commonly Asked Questions About Welding Helmets & Eye Protection | Lincoln Electric
 
   / cheap tool alert #32  
In the past, I would not even consider Harbor Freight any more than I would Wal-Mart. Times change and the bottom line is I need to bend a bit.

Anyway, I bought that same saw for 50 bucks on special. I agree, it is slow but I made a lot of cuts with it so far and it still runs. I think they make a somewhat heavier model?

I also have the HB electric jack hammer. Excavating for my one barn took me down to the hardpan. In order to set some 8 foot fence posts 3 foot deep, it took me upwards of eight hours to do one post one day. Renting was not feasable on a casual basis and the Bosch electric hammer runs over a grand. So, I got the HB for about 350 then spent another 300 for two three foot long points.

I don't know that you could make a living with this tool but I can dig a three foot hole in around an hour now.
 
   / cheap tool alert #33  
That is the same article that I posted a link to by the same author. :D
 
   / cheap tool alert #34  
DaryleD said:
No offense intended, but I think that I would read the tech article on the Lincoln electric site about auto darkening hoods and trust that a little more than even an experienced welder. I say that just due to the fact that liability comes into play with claims made by companies, and they would be liable and wouldn't say the oposite of that if they didn't trust the research that leads to these remarks. I mean no disrespect to Bil, but if you think about the R&D that goes into making product;especially when safety is concerned, than I would just have to go with that other than what we think ( including myself, before reading it and thinking about it a little )without carefull data to back it up. I hope I can post this link propperly. Commonly Asked Questions About Welding Helmets & Eye Protection | Lincoln Electric


So.... Why trust someone with thousands of hours of actually using welding hoods as opposed to the company trying to SELL them......

And he's not the first welder I've heard that from.

And would this be the first ever case of something being marketed as "totally safe", then later found to be not quite as safe as first thought?

I'm not saying there isn't any chance that a AD hood is safe. My contention is, the old style ARE safe, and I'm not convinced the AD hoods are. And popular opinion of several people who use this type of equipment on a regular basis have their doubts.
 
   / cheap tool alert
  • Thread Starter
#35  
On an interesting side note.. I noticed that some items at HF this week were made in places other than china... ( russia, india.. etc.. )

Soundguy
 
   / cheap tool alert #36  
Soundguy said:
On an interesting side note.. I noticed that some items at HF this week were made in places other than china... ( russia, india.. etc.. )

Soundguy

Yes, and be sure to wear a flak jacket if you use the Russian made wheels on your chop saw. You'd think I'd catch on a bit quicker, but I actually had 3 of the Russian made chop saw wheels explode when I used them. It's beyond me as to why it took me 3 tries to decide to pitch the remainder of them and go back with a quality wheel.

Hey, you'll be happy though; I bought something at HF this weekend. :eek: I had a specific need for a larger set of bolt cutters. I bought the 36" elcheapo bolt cutters there for $20 (or so) and they cut the lock off of the gate for me. Yes, I lost the keys to my own lock on my gate. :eek:
 
   / cheap tool alert
  • Thread Starter
#37  
So far I've had no problems with the russian blade sets. I find it odd dthat the russians could make a blade set cheaper than the chinese.... And yet.. I 'assume' it was a price based decision.. etc.

In any case.. I was carefull around the abrasive blade.. Like i would have been even if i had bought a dewalt saw and 'name brand' media.... etc... Abrasive blades just fly apart.. it happens... A blade we picked up from napa for our chop saw at work disentigrated before even coming up to full speed and a large chunk of it hit our mechanic near the groin ( right thigh)a little while back. His welding chaps prevented penetration.. however he was a bit sore, and gunshy about the whole deal after that.

Soundguy
 
   / cheap tool alert #38  
Soundguy said:
So far I've had no problems with the russian blade sets. I find it odd dthat the russians could make a blade set cheaper than the chinese.... And yet.. I 'assume' it was a price based decision.. etc.

In any case.. I was carefull around the abrasive blade.. Like i would have been even if i had bought a dewalt saw and 'name brand' media.... etc... Abrasive blades just fly apart.. it happens... A blade we picked up from napa for our chop saw at work disentigrated before even coming up to full speed and a large chunk of it hit our mechanic near the groin ( right thigh)a little while back. His welding chaps prevented penetration.. however he was a bit sore, and gunshy about the whole deal after that.

Soundguy


Best to assume ALL abrasive blades are about to grenade at any moment. You never know who might have dropped that blade in the store before you bolted it on your saw. To me, it wouldn't matter one bit if the blade was Russian, German, or American as it flew apart and hit me.
 
   / cheap tool alert #39  
Farmwithjunk said:
Best to assume ALL abrasive blades are about to grenade at any moment. You never know who might have dropped that blade in the store before you bolted it on your saw.

True, but having 3 Russian wheels in a row explode, there is no way in the world I'll ever have another on my chop saw. One reason they exploded could be because they were on a DeWalt chop saw that had about 10X the power the Hardly Freight one did. However, I took the shrapnel in the chest, leg, neck and face on the 3rd failure. So far, I've never had a Forney or DeWalt brand wheel come apart.

Oh yeah, I have a really good idea why the Russian wheels are cheaper than Chinese made ones...;)

But, hey, are you not happy that I did go to Hardly Freight and I bought some bolt cutters? :) Better yet, they made it through the first use and still appear to be in fine shape. Do you want me to post a pic of me actually using something from Hardly Freight? :D
 
   / cheap tool alert
  • Thread Starter
#40  
I'd look at the rpm of the saw those russian blades were designed for, vs the dewalt..

As was pointed out.. it's very likely that entire box of 5 blades was dropped...

Soundguy
 

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