CK series owners- clarify where you fill your engine oil: location on engine

[Coyote machine]

Here's a link to the CK series, 2015 year, tractor oil fill location, detailed in the owner's manual. It addresses the issue of this thread, and where to fill oil at, from the manufacturer's specific instructions/details.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...wheree-put-added-engine-oils.html#post4301793

 

[747driver]

Update for my smoking CK27 after a oil change. I have put 6 hrs on the engine since oil change but it still smokes. The smoke does fade away some once the engine gets up to temp. I just got off the phone with the dealer who sold me the tractor. He verified that if you fill the oil to fast at the valve cover fill port it will overflow into the breather tube, hence going into whatever valve is open. This will give you a hydro lok. He told me i could have a slightly bent push rod, but also he said i just need to run the tractor at a high rpm to burn this excess oil out and that it will take some time to burn all the oil out. He said he puts it on there dyno machine and runs the engine until the smoke goes away from the excess oil.

Since the dealer i bought it from is 8 hrs away i will take it to the Kioti dealer who is only a hour away. I got the loader off so they will have better access. I did call them and the mechanic said he had been working on tractors for 50 yrs. and hasn't heard of the hydro lok from filling oil to fast.

Would any of you suggest i just keep running the tractor? It starts fine and makes power normal. I do look at the dipstick after each use and the oil level is slowly going down which tends me to believe that a valve or piston is not working right ?

Thanks

Chuck

 

[747driver]

Update for my smoking CK27 after a oil change. I have put 6 hrs on the engine since oil change but it still smokes. The smoke does fade away some once the engine gets up to temp. I just got off the phone with the dealer who sold me the tractor. He verified that if you fill the oil to fast at the valve cover fill port it will overflow into the breather tube, hence going into whatever valve is open. This will give you a hydro lok. He told me i could have a slightly bent push rod, but also he said i just need to run the tractor at a high rpm to burn this excess oil out and that it will take some time to burn all the oil out. He said he puts it on there dyno machine and runs the engine until the smoke goes away from the excess oil.

Since the dealer i bought it from is 8 hrs away i will take it to the Kioti dealer who is only a hour away. I got the loader off so they will have better access. I did call them and the mechanic said he had been working on tractors for 50 yrs. and hasn't heard of the hydro lok from filling oil to fast.

Would any of you suggest i just keep running the tractor? It starts fine and makes power normal. I do look at the dipstick after each use and the oil level is slowly going down which tends me to believe that a valve or piston is not working right ?

Thanks

Chuck

 

[ritcheyvs]

If you bent a connecting rod, the associated piston won't go to the top at TDC. This reduces the compression ratio on that cylinder and that would produce incomplete combustion (aka smoke). But a bent rod can also cause the piston to sit cocked in the cylinder which will eventually oval-out (ruin) the cylinder. However, there are many other benign causes of smoke.

The thing I consider most important is you report a noticeable drop in oil level in just 6 hours of operation. Unless you have an oil leak, this would indicate a serious problem. It may be a broken piston ring (at the good end of the scale) to a cracked head or deformed cylinder (at the bad end of the scale). Any of these would require major engine work. On the other hand, it is hard to detect a small oil loss unless the engine sits un-run for days before each measurement and the tractor is not moved. Modern oils (esp synthetic) really "stick" to the metal parts so a great deal of oil will return to the pan only after days of draining. Cold weather increases this behavior.

If it were me, I'd do a compression test before making any decision. That will require a Diesel compression gauge with correct adapters for your glow or injector holes. If all cylinders have good compression, I'd advise just using the tractor and ignore the smoke. If the compression is seriously bad on one cylinder I'd get prices in engine replacement vs a rebuild. If replacement is comparable to rebuild, I'd still just run it and plan on replacing the engine if it self destructs. If a rebuild is way cheaper (and you have confidence in the rebuilder), It might be worth taking it to the dealer now.

More thoughts: is this tractor under warranty? If so, take it to a dealer now.

More thoughts: Have you replaced the fuel with fresh winter or winterized #2 Diesel? As we have seen in another post, summer diesel or home heating oil can be pretty smoky in cold weather.

 

[747driver]

If you bent a connecting rod, the associated piston won't go to the top at TDC. This reduces the compression ratio on that cylinder and that would produce incomplete combustion (aka smoke). But a bent rod can also cause the piston to sit cocked in the cylinder which will eventually oval-out (ruin) the cylinder. However, there are many other benign causes of smoke.

The thing I consider most important is you report a noticeable drop in oil level in just 6 hours of operation. Unless you have an oil leak, this would indicate a serious problem. It may be a broken piston ring (at the good end of the scale) to a cracked head or deformed cylinder (at the bad end of the scale). Any of these would require major engine work. On the other hand, it is hard to detect a small oil loss unless the engine sits un-run for days before each measurement and the tractor is not moved. Modern oils (esp synthetic) really "stick" to the metal parts so a great deal of oil will return to the pan only after days of draining. Cold weather increases this behavior.

If it were me, I'd do a compression test before making any decision. That will require a Diesel compression gauge with correct adapters for your glow or injector holes. If all cylinders have good compression, I'd advise just using the tractor and ignore the smoke. If the compression is seriously bad on one cylinder I'd get prices in engine replacement vs a rebuild. If replacement is comparable to rebuild, I'd still just run it and plan on replacing the engine if it self destructs. If a rebuild is way cheaper (and you have confidence in the rebuilder), It might be worth taking it to the dealer now.

More thoughts: is this tractor under warranty? If so, take it to a dealer now.

More thoughts: Have you replaced the fuel with fresh winter or winterized #2 Diesel? As we have seen in another post, summer diesel or home heating oil can be pretty smoky in cold weather.

Thanks for the reply. No it is not under warranty. I am thinking it is not a major problem ( yet ) as the tractor runs fine, other than the smoking. First tractor and diesel i have owned ! When the engine runs at idle i can hear the engine miss ( a slight puffing sound intermittenly ) and where no smoke shows at times...not all the time though. Like one of the cylinders is not fully working. Just hope the dealer finds nothing major !!!!

 

[Amvcane]

747, I thought I read in another thread that you have 2 years left on the warranty?

 

[747driver]

747, I thought I read in another thread that you have 2 years left on the warranty?

Its a 2012. I bought it used last june with 194 hrs. I think the warranty has expired. I will ask at the dealer though.

 

[Amvcane]

If it's a 2012 tractor ( serial # starting with "M" ) , it was most likely purchased in 2013, which is when the warranty starts. These warranties are transferable.

 

[747driver]

If it's a 2012 tractor ( serial # starting with "M" ) , it was most likely purchased in 2013, which is when the warranty starts. These warranties are transferable.

Thanks for the tip. I will look on the paperwork for serial #.

 

[Everhard]

And even if it's 2012 as the start date it should have 4 years of insurance? Mine's a 2012 and that's the case so it should be good till at least some time this year.

E.