Grapple Claw Grapple vs "L" Shape OBG

[coolnature]

Getting ready to pull the trigger on a new grapple. Since I have never used one, I am completely in the dark as to what style to get. I have read several grapple threads on TBN and I have learned that there is no one design perfectly suited for all uses.
My primary uses: raking, piling, moving brush; moving logs; uprooting small trees, mostly cedars; some rock digging / moving.
Tractor is 95 HP w/ FEL plumbed with WR Long 3rd function. Loader capacity is 2650# 32" forward of pivot.
In addition as to the style of grapple, I need advice on the following:
(1) Overall width: my front tires are 79" out to out. Does grapple need to be at least as wide as front tires?
(2) Lower tine thickness: Is 1/2" the minimum I need to consider?
(3) Weight: Is heavier necessarily better? Maybe more durable?
(4) Steel type: is high tensile strength preferred?
(5) Cylinders: Size / stroke recommendation?
(6) Gusseted tips: For strength reasons I suppose?
(7) Replaceble tips on lower tines: I have seen this on some units. Good or bad?
(8) Manufacturer: If $ were no object, I would buy an Anbo or a Bradco. Trying to keep the budget at 3K.
I have talked to one manufacturer that makes both styles and they recommended the "claw" stating that it would be the better choice and easier to operate for brush work.
Thanks in advance for any recommendations and advice.

 

[Rocky Hoffler]

Everything Attachments builds a lighter made grapple but is extremely strong giving you more lifting due to grapple being lighter your putting this on a fairly good size unit the style and clamps are a personal preference I think any style is good a lot better than no grapple I would get at least a 66 inch to 72 because of tractor size but some people like a narrow grapple to get up small stumps and such good luck in which ever style you decide on lets us know what you decide.

 

[HCJtractor]

Getting ready to pull the trigger on a new grapple. Since I have never used one, I am completely in the dark as to what style to get. I have read several grapple threads on TBN and I have learned that there is no one design perfectly suited for all uses. My primary uses: raking, piling, moving brush; moving logs; uprooting small trees, mostly cedars; some rock digging / moving. Tractor is 95 HP w/ FEL plumbed with WR Long 3rd function. Loader capacity is 2650# 32" forward of pivot. In addition as to the style of grapple, I need advice on the following: (1) Overall width: my front tires are 79" out to out. Does grapple need to be at least as wide as front tires? (2) Lower tine thickness: Is 1/2" the minimum I need to consider? (3) Weight: Is heavier necessarily better? Maybe more durable? (4) Steel type: is high tensile strength preferred? (5) Cylinders: Size / stroke recommendation? (6) Gusseted tips: For strength reasons I suppose? (7) Replaceble tips on lower tines: I have seen this on some units. Good or bad? (8) Manufacturer: If $ were no object, I would buy an Anbo or a Bradco. Trying to keep the budget at 3K. I have talked to one manufacturer that makes both styles and they recommended the "claw" stating that it would be the better choice and easier to operate for brush work. Thanks in advance for any recommendations and advice.

You are going to get lots of opinions. Here is mine. Your tractor is larger than most who post here. Heavier, more powerful. Yet I think still most generalities apply. I have 70 horse, so not that smaller than yours. I use and abuse mine extensively, for exactly the same functions you want. In terms of strength, get main tines out of 1/2" steel. No need to get high strength steel. Next decision is width. If you dig and uproot, narrow is better than wider. The width of your tractor has nothing to do with it. Mine is 48". But perhaps go up to 60" max. I guarantee either of these widths will pick up piles of limbs bigger than you can imagine or see around. And a narrow one digs better. When uprooting a tree, the tines are used to dig under the root ball to pluck it out. An analogy is the shovel. Would you use a wide snow shovel to dig up a tree or a narrower spade? You cannot plunge a wider grapple deep into the soil like you can plunge a narrower one. The smaller one will focus the lift power of your FEL much more effectively. Some say the wider will pick up more or be better when "raking". I say this is not true. As far as the upper "thumb", on a 48", one is plenty. On a wider one, two is standard. Frankly, it really doesn't matter. Both work fine. As far as weight, I would say lighter is better, but it must be strong enough to hold up. 1/2" steel with proper construction and reinforcement is plenty. I think you could get a great one for $1500. Here is mine and a nice one made by WR Long. Also look at the recent build by "Hilbilly" documented on a thread titled "Re: Grapple---1 Lid or 2". It has good discussions. His is very nice and for your bigger tractor, could be beefed up a little. Also read everything here from IslandTractor. He knows his stuff

 

[EverythingAttachments]

Here's my pic for your tractor and price range.
The design like our Wicked Grapple, but it is built heavier for large tractors(like yours) and skid steers.
The best size is debatable, but I like the 66" on a tractor.
Travis

 

[EverythingAttachments]

Here are some pics of one on a pallet ready for shipping. It's definitely mean!!

 

[coolnature]

Thanks Rocky, HCJ and Ted. I agree that narrower is probably better than wider. I am sure the digging power is much greater with a narrower grapple. Now the question I have is this: which style will dig better provided both are the same width? Thanks

 

[Industrial Toys]

Yeah, I see no need to have a grapple be the width of the tires.

I wanted one that you could use more as a claw coming down form above. I mean, you can drive into something from the side, but I find the claw just works better for large stones, stumps, trees, brush and the like.

I got lucky. I friend spotted one in a super shopper magazine. A guy had bought a couple cheap at a Richey Bros Auction in the States and brought them up here to sell. Asked $1200.00 CASH.

That meant I could stop thinking about selecting, building or buying one and I needed one in a hurry. I did not consider it top quality and have seen some name brand ones that were badly mangled, but I have not managed to harm it in any way. It has suffered some abuse at my hands.

So, the ONLY thing I don't like about it, is that it has a single piece top grapple, and I find for long trees especially, a two independent top claw would be better.

One of the best things I ever got (and I already had a pallet fork style grapple already) that I kick myself that I didn't get one sooner!

 

[SPYDERLK]

You are going to get lots of opinions. Here is mine. Your tractor is larger than most who post here. Heavier, more powerful. Yet I think still most generalities apply. I have 70 horse, so not that smaller than yours. I use and abuse mine extensively, for exactly the same functions you want. In terms of strength, get main tines out of 1/2" steel. No need to get high strength steel. Next decision is width. If you dig and uproot, narrow is better than wider. The width of your tractor has nothing to do with it. Mine is 48". But perhaps go up to 60" max. I guarantee either of these widths will pick up piles of limbs bigger than you can imagine or see around. And a narrow one digs better. When uprooting a tree, the tines are used to dig under the root ball to pluck it out. An analogy is the shovel. Would you use a wide snow shovel to dig up a tree or a narrower spade? You cannot plunge a wider grapple deep into the soil like you can plunge a narrower one. The smaller one will focus the lift power of your FEL much more effectively. Some say the wider will pick up more or be better when "raking". I say this is not true. As far as the upper "thumb", on a 48", one is plenty. On a wider one, two is standard. Frankly, it really doesn't matter. Both work fine. As far as weight, I would say lighter is better, but it must be strong enough to hold up. 1/2" steel with proper construction and reinforcement is plenty. I think you could get a great one for $1500. Here is mine and a nice one made by WR Long. Also look at the recent build by "Hilbilly" documented on a thread titled "Re: Grapple---1 Lid or 2". It has good discussions. His is very nice and for your bigger tractor, could be beefed up a little. Also read everything here from IslandTractor. He knows his stuff

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View attachment 415178

This is a very good post. ... Truly factual, while those who disagree will err in calling it opinion. One issue -- hi strength steel appropriately placed is free money. A bulletproof construction will make you smile EVERY day. - As said, "lighter is better". High strength steel gives you a margin to use less, and eases bracing requirements. Pay for the design of an item tailored to its function -- not a kluge that substitutes extra metal for a need of focused strength.
larry

 

[SPYDERLK]

You are going to get lots of opinions. Here is mine. Your tractor is larger than most who post here. Heavier, more powerful. Yet I think still most generalities apply. I have 70 horse, so not that smaller than yours. I use and abuse mine extensively, for exactly the same functions you want. In terms of strength, get main tines out of 1/2" steel. No need to get high strength steel. Next decision is width. If you dig and uproot, narrow is better than wider. The width of your tractor has nothing to do with it. Mine is 48". But perhaps go up to 60" max. I guarantee either of these widths will pick up piles of limbs bigger than you can imagine or see around. And a narrow one digs better. When uprooting a tree, the tines are used to dig under the root ball to pluck it out. An analogy is the shovel. Would you use a wide snow shovel to dig up a tree or a narrower spade? You cannot plunge a wider grapple deep into the soil like you can plunge a narrower one. The smaller one will focus the lift power of your FEL much more effectively. Some say the wider will pick up more or be better when "raking". I say this is not true. As far as the upper "thumb", on a 48", one is plenty. On a wider one, two is standard. Frankly, it really doesn't matter. Both work fine. As far as weight, I would say lighter is better, but it must be strong enough to hold up. 1/2" steel with proper construction and reinforcement is plenty. I think you could get a great one for $1500. Here is mine and a nice one made by WR Long. Also look at the recent build by "Hilbilly" documented on a thread titled "Re: Grapple---1 Lid or 2". It has good discussions. His is very nice and for your bigger tractor, could be beefed up a little. Also read everything here from IslandTractor. He knows his stuff

View attachment 415177



View attachment 415178

This is a very good post. ... Truly factual, while those who disagree will err in calling it opinion. One issue -- hi strength steel appropriately placed is free money. A bulletproof construction will make you smile EVERY day. - As said, "lighter is better". High strength steel gives you a margin to use less, and eases bracing requirements. Pay for the design of an item tailored to its function -- not a kluge that substitutes extra metal for a need of focused strength.
larry

 

[HCJtractor]

Here's my pic for your tractor and price range. The design like our Wicked Grapple, but it is built heavier for large tractors(like yours) and skid steers. The best size is debatable, but I like the 66" on a tractor. Travis

That's a very nice looking grapple. It would serve your needs well. Here are pix of mine. Was quite a bit less $$ but certainly a little smaller and less beefy that the EA one. Regardless, the EA one has everything you are looking for, and they are a good reputable company.

 

[HCJtractor]

Here's my pic for your tractor and price range. The design like our Wicked Grapple, but it is built heavier for large tractors(like yours) and skid steers. The best size is debatable, but I like the 66" on a tractor. Travis

That EA grapple looks wicked. Perhaps overkill for most mid sized tractors, but for a big 90 horse, it is perfect. If that's within your budget, you couldn't go wrong with that. I would love to have that!!!!
My buddy drives my tractor a lot. He just loves knocking things down. If he had that grapple on your tractor, there wouldn't be a tree left standing on our property.

 

[Deerherd]

I have a larger tractor such as the OP and have a different experience than what the general consensus is on here.

The EA grapple recommended on here has too small of a jaw opening IMHO. (42") This is one of the shortfalls of many flat bottomed grapples. Additionally it is harder to grab a log with that style and due to the way the jaw closes, you are more likely to grab the log near the front of the grapple, which moves the weight that much further ahead, limiting your lift.

Picking up logs with a clam style is much easier and faster plus the log is pulled close to to face of the grapple maximizing your lifting ability.

Any grapple can pick up a lot of brush, but a larger jaw spread lets you better handle larger brush piles. I can handle 5-6 feet tall stacked brush with no problem with the 70" opening on my grapple. Smaller grapples have to pick the top off and risk running over debris and possibly running something through a vital part of the tractor or work with piles less than their jaw opening. You have a bigger tractor, why not move more material?

How much digging do you want to do? My grapple is 84" wide and weighs 825 lbs and I can easily bury it to the first crossbar without even trying anywhere on my property except maybe the last two weeks of August. Ripping out brush, brambles and small trees for its full width is no problem. If I want to dig out a real stump I put on a stump bucket.

Having the ability to clear close to the width of my tractor is more important than a perceived better digging ability IMHO. Additionally the greater width compacts and holds a greater amount of brush away from the tractor. Less brush falls out and it lessens the chance of driving over something that you are dragging that is caught in your grapple poorly.

I had a Michigan Iron and Equipment grapple on my DK Kioti and it was nice. But the difference is night and day with my current WRLong grapple on my LS. I much prefer the clam style.

Good luck in your search!

 

[EverythingAttachments]

I have a larger tractor such as the OP and have a different experience than what the general consensus is on here.

The EA grapple recommended on here has too small of a jaw opening IMHO. (42") This is one of the shortfalls of many flat bottomed grapples. Additionally it is harder to grab a log with that style and due to the way the jaw closes, you are more likely to grab the log near the front of the grapple, which moves the weight that much further ahead, limiting your lift.

Picking up logs with a clam style is much easier and faster plus the log is pulled close to to face of the grapple maximizing your lifting ability.

Any grapple can pick up a lot of brush, but a larger jaw spread lets you better handle larger brush piles. I can handle 5-6 feet tall stacked brush with no problem with the 70" opening on my grapple. Smaller grapples have to pick the top off and risk running over debris and possibly running something through a vital part of the tractor or work with piles less than their jaw opening. You have a bigger tractor, why not move more material?

How much digging do you want to do? My grapple is 84" wide and weighs 825 lbs and I can easily bury it to the first crossbar without even trying anywhere on my property except maybe the last two weeks of August. Ripping out brush, brambles and small trees for its full width is no problem. If I want to dig out a real stump I put on a stump bucket.

Having the ability to clear close to the width of my tractor is more important than a perceived better digging ability IMHO. Additionally the greater width compacts and holds a greater amount of brush away from the tractor. Less brush falls out and it lessens the chance of driving over something that you are dragging that is caught in your grapple poorly.

I had a Michigan Iron and Equipment grapple on my DK Kioti and it was nice. But the difference is night and day with my current WRLong grapple on my LS. I much prefer the clam style.

Good luck in your search!

View attachment 415269

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We offer that brush grapple as well, but sell WAY more of the Root Grapples.

Do you have any issues with the top clamps pushing piles of brush away, rather than grabbing when you're closing because of the extreme vertical angle of the brush grapple?
Travis

 

[coolnature]

I have a larger tractor such as the OP and have a different experience than what the general consensus is on here.

The EA grapple recommended on here has too small of a jaw opening IMHO. (42") This is one of the shortfalls of many flat bottomed grapples. Additionally it is harder to grab a log with that style and due to the way the jaw closes, you are more likely to grab the log near the front of the grapple, which moves the weight that much further ahead, limiting your lift.

Picking up logs with a clam style is much easier and faster plus the log is pulled close to to face of the grapple maximizing your lifting ability.

Any grapple can pick up a lot of brush, but a larger jaw spread lets you better handle larger brush piles. I can handle 5-6 feet tall stacked brush with no problem with the 70" opening on my grapple. Smaller grapples have to pick the top off and risk running over debris and possibly running something through a vital part of the tractor or work with piles less than their jaw opening. You have a bigger tractor, why not move more material?

How much digging do you want to do? My grapple is 84" wide and weighs 825 lbs and I can easily bury it to the first crossbar without even trying anywhere on my property except maybe the last two weeks of August. Ripping out brush, brambles and small trees for its full width is no problem. If I want to dig out a real stump I put on a stump bucket.

Having the ability to clear close to the width of my tractor is more important than a perceived better digging ability IMHO. Additionally the greater width compacts and holds a greater amount of brush away from the tractor. Less brush falls out and it lessens the chance of driving over something that you are dragging that is caught in your grapple poorly.

I had a Michigan Iron and Equipment grapple on my DK Kioti and it was nice. But the difference is night and day with my current WRLong grapple on my LS. I much prefer the clam style.

Good luck in your search!

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Thanks Deerherd. I am leaning toward the claw style for its larger front opening and thus greater brush capacity. I also agree with you that the claw is better for picking up and moving logs. For larger stump removal, I agree that a stump bucket is best since it will concentrate all the force of the tractor to the stump.
I have talked to Nelson at WR Long and he stated that I could move more brush faster with the claw instead of the flat bottom and WR Long makes both styles.
Looking at the attached pic, it appears your WR Long grapple has replaceable tips on the bottom tines. Is this correct?
BTW, your LS is very similar to my NH in terms of power, size and color. It gives me a good idea what the RBGD would look like on my machine.

 

[Deerherd]

We offer that brush grapple as well, but sell WAY more of the Root Grapples.

Do you have any issues with the top clamps pushing piles of brush away, rather than grabbing when you're closing because of the extreme vertical angle of the brush grapple?
Travis

Exactly the opposite, it pulls the brush towards the face of the grapple and creates a much better compacting action as opposed to the right angled top jaw of the flat-bottom grapple.

You just need to use a different technique. With the much longer upper jaws you need to learn to roll the grapple just slightly past verticle before closing. With the lower jaw on the ground you can compact almost 6' of brush in a tight package.

I also move a lot of logs with a similar technique. It's very easy to roll up on a log and pick it on the first attempt and hold the weight close to the loader. The jaws are pulling the log to the face. More than half the time with the right angled top grapple you catch the log at the point of the top grapple, which on the larger grapples can be more than two feet forward reducing your lifting capacity. You can tilt the grapple , release your grip and let the log "roll" back to the face but that can get squirrelly. For my size tractor and ground conditions the rake style wins hands down, and grabbing a log at the optimum point the first time saves lots of time.

I'm sure you sell more of the flat bottomed grapples, especially since most on here advocate a narrower lighter grapple for their cuts and scuts. I'm guessing, but the majority of members here have never run a heavier, wider grapple on a utility tractor. The digging and raking abilities are not even close when you have a grapple that weighs 800+ lbs on a 10,000 lb tractor.

(I do enjoy my severe extreme box blade from you guys and use it all winter to pull snow way from my garage doors!)

 

[Deerherd]

Thanks Deerherd. I am leaning toward the claw style for its larger front opening and thus greater brush capacity. I also agree with you that the claw is better for picking up and moving logs. For larger stump removal, I agree that a stump bucket is best since it will concentrate all the force of the tractor to the stump.
I have talked to Nelson at WR Long and he stated that I could move more brush faster with the claw instead of the flat bottom and WR Long makes both styles.
Looking at the attached pic, it appears your WR Long grapple has replaceable tips on the bottom tines. Is this correct?
BTW, your LS is very similar to my NH in terms of power, size and color. It gives me a good idea what the RBGD would look like on my machine.

Yes the teeth are replaceable but I haven't had to replace any, yet!