Click, click, click

[bindian]

My 6520 didn't wanna start this morning. It did the same thing Sunday, so I made sure to let it idle at 1000 rpm for a while before shuting down. It just went click, when I turned the key to start. I tried it again and heard........click, click, click, then it started will plenty of starting rpm. Is my starter solenoid on it's way out? Is it on the starter? As that was were the clicking sound seemed to be coming from.
hugs, Brandi

 

[LindenBruce]

One way to check if it is the starter is have someone tap the side of the starter with a hammer while you try to start it. If tapping with a hammer causes it to spin right over or spin faster it is the starter. If no change in symptoms it could be a solenoid or a battery/connection issue. Has it suddenly gotten colder there? That could indicate a weak battery. Also, check your alternator output with a volt meter to see if you are getting at least 13.8 volts. 13.8 to 14.2 is good. Bruce

 

[RobertBrown]

Insufficient voltage to the solenoid.
Get your meter out and check the battery. Remove battery cables, wire brush both cables and terminals and replace.
You may need a new battery.....

 

[murphy1244]

Brandi, I would check my battery connections first. Then Battery.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

My 6520 didn't wanna start this morning. It did the same thing Sunday, so I made sure to let it idle at 1000 rpm for a while before shuting down. It just went click, when I turned the key to start. I tried it again and heard........click, click, click, then it started will plenty of starting rpm. Is my starter solenoid on it's way out? Is it on the starter? As that was were the clicking sound seemed to be coming from.
hugs, Brandi

Brandi, have you gotten a new battery yet? Mine went 10 years, but that was it. Cold weather shows a weak battery quick.

 

[LD1]

Agree. Clean all connections first

 

[idaho2]

My battery after 6 years died, had the click, voltage was there (12v) but not the amps to turn it over. Have your battery checked out for the amps. New battery solved my problem.

idaho2

 

[alafarm]

I agree with other posters. If Battery has some age I would start with that, even if the connections are good and the voltage on battery and alternator are correct you could still have a battery cell shorting out. A shorting cell can cause intermediate starting. Need to load test at battery shop to check for short, unless you have a load tester.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Brandi, I had the same problem with the solenoid on the 6000...sometimes it would take 8-12 turns of the key before it would "catch"...the battery tested good (I got 7 or 8 years out of the original), so I looked up the starter solenoid thing...you can take the solenoid off by itself, take it apart and clean the "rod" that does the connection...I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol (spel), got some very thin synthetic clear grease, rubbed the syn. grease on the rod and cleaned around inside the solenoid itself....(this was about 5 years ago)....hasn't missed a beat since...apparently the rod has a tendency to have a "sticky" spot in it after a few years and this is where it will "stop" and you get the click...you being a mech., you can do this in your sleep...pretty sure this is the solution..if so, its an easy fix. Bobg in VA

 

[bindian]

Brandi, I had the same problem with the solenoid on the 6000...sometimes it would take 8-12 turns of the key before it would "catch"...the battery tested good (I got 7 or 8 years out of the original), so I looked up the starter solenoid thing...you can take the solenoid off by itself, take it apart and clean the "rod" that does the connection...I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol (spel), got some very thin synthetic clear grease, rubbed the syn. grease on the rod and cleaned around inside the solenoid itself....(this was about 5 years ago)....hasn't missed a beat since...apparently the rod has a tendency to have a "sticky" spot in it after a few years and this is where it will "stop" and you get the click...you being a mech., you can do this in your sleep...pretty sure this is the solution..if so, its an easy fix. Bobg in VA

Bob,
That sounds like what it is. Can you take the solenoid off without taking the starter off? We have about 7 inches of rain in the last two weekends, so that might be contributing to it being ornery.

Everyone else...... The battery is about a year old. I skipped talking about the battery having enough voltage because I typed in post#1..........then it started will plenty of starting rpm This tells me the battery has plenty of voltage and no bad connections. Cold here:confused3:........funny:laughing:......it doesn't get cold in Southeast Texas until January.:2cents:

Thanks for everybody's thoughts on this and trying to help.:thumbsup:
hugs, Brandi

 

[rback33]

Bob,
That sounds like what it is. Can you take the solenoid off without taking the starter off? We have about 7 inches of rain in the last two weekends, so that might be contributing to it being ornery.

Everyone else...... The battery is about a year old. I skipped talking about the battery having enough voltage because I typed in post#1..........then it started will plenty of starting rpm This tells me the battery has plenty of voltage and no bad connections. Cold here:confused3:........funny:laughing:......it doesn't get cold in Southeast Texas until January.:2cents:

Thanks for everybody's thoughts on this and trying to help.:thumbsup:
hugs, Brandi

LOL and you don't know what cold is!

 

[bindian]

LOL and you don't know what cold is!

Jeremy,
Uh, yeah.....I know what cold is. Cold is 33 degrees, raining with 100 percent humidity and your in the deer blind trying to realize why you got out of that warm bed.

What cold isn't.........................20 degrees below zero in Fairbanks with 18 percent humidity!
hugs, Brandi

 

[flyerdan]

You might be able to take the solenoid off if it's accessible all around. Since it spins over fine when it does work, I'd guess that the two copper bolts that make the battery cable connection are eroded. They are probably square head, and can be tapped out of the bakelite housing and turned 180 degrees so that the new sides contact the plunger disc. Had the same thing happen with my forklift, flipped the bolts and it acts like a new starter now.

 

[bindian]

You might be able to take the solenoid off if it's accessible all around. Since it spins over fine when it does work, I'd guess that the two copper bolts that make the battery cable connection are eroded. They are probably square head, and can be tapped out of the bakelite housing and turned 180 degrees so that the new sides contact the plunger disc. Had the same thing happen with my forklift, flipped the bolts and it acts like a new starter now.

Flyerdan,
The starter is sandwiched between the engine and loader subframe. But it looks like the solenoid is on top and accessable after raising and blocking the loader and turning the tires to the right. I will know more after removing the drip shield. I am thinking of removing the loader for safety and ease of access. Mainly ease of access. It will be the first time I took the loader off.

Are you a pilot?
hugs, Brandi

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Bob,
That sounds like what it is. Can you take the solenoid off without taking the starter off? We have about 7 inches of rain in the last two weekends, so that might be contributing to it being ornery.

Everyone else...... The battery is about a year old. I skipped talking about the battery having enough voltage because I typed in post#1..........then it started will plenty of starting rpm This tells me the battery has plenty of voltage and no bad connections. Cold here:confused3:........funny:laughing:......it doesn't get cold in Southeast Texas until January.:2cents:

Thanks for everybody's thoughts on this and trying to help.:thumbsup:

hugs, Brandi

Yep...comes unbolted from the starter....once you look at it, it will be self explanatory...good luck, let us know how it goes. Hugs back to you... BobG in VA

 

[flyerdan]

There will be two small flathead or 5-16th hex cap screws holing the solenoid to the housing. The biggest obstacle will be the heavy braid from the starter to the bottom terminal of the solenoid. Some are flexible braid, others are a slotted bar that require the solenoid to be slightly rotated before it will come out. Don't forget to disconnect the battery before starting; I know it sounds obvious but it can be overlooked if you jump right in when you bring the tools over.
I've done some flying off and on over the years, just for fun. Solenoids weren't an issue on most of the tube and fabric planes I learned in and still prefer. Nothing like some of the heavy iron you've posted before, but that does look like fun as well, long as it not at -40 in YZF.

 

[Bladehauler]

Sounds to me like the Beast is Jealous of the new Cat you brought home ( as well as I ) seriously though , my ls would do the same thing , start fine 1 time then clickety click click the next , turned out to be the ground connection had loosened up ( gremlins I guess )
Moral of my story , check the simple **** first ! KISS principle you know !
Good luck
Scott

 

[Keith_B]

Flyerdan,
The starter is sandwiched between the engine and loader subframe. But it looks like the solenoid is on top and accessable after raising and blocking the loader and turning the tires to the right. I will know more after removing the drip shield. I am thinking of removing the loader for safety and ease of access. Mainly ease of access. It will be the first time I took the loader off.

Are you a pilot?
hugs, Brandi

I took my starter off my 4110 Sunday, took about two minutes. The solenoid attaches with two screws that are easier accessed with the starter off. Replaced the solenoid and starter is good as new.

 

[bindian]

Yep...comes unbolted from the starter....once you look at it, it will be self explanatory...good luck, let us know how it goes. Hugs back to you... BobG in VA

Thanks Bob!
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

There will be two small flathead or 5-16th hex cap screws holing the solenoid to the housing. The biggest obstacle will be the heavy braid from the starter to the bottom terminal of the solenoid. Some are flexible braid, others are a slotted bar that require the solenoid to be slightly rotated before it will come out. Don't forget to disconnect the battery before starting; I know it sounds obvious but it can be overlooked if you jump right in when you bring the tools over.
I've done some flying off and on over the years, just for fun. Solenoids weren't an issue on most of the tube and fabric planes I learned in and still prefer. Nothing like some of the heavy iron you've posted before, but that does look like fun as well, long as it not at -40 in YZF.

Diconnecting the battery is a must. I have a Snap On 7/16th combo wrench with arc marks on it. It only takes once. My first job in aviation was on Piper's and Mooneys. The local Piper dealer had two Citabrias. I loved working and taxing them. Worked on a Super Cub. Smallest plane I worked on had a 2 cylinder 65ph Franklin on it. I think it was a Stinson. Hotest homebuilt I got to work on was made from a F104 centerline fuel tank............with a IO-360 in it. Nicest GA bird I worked on was a Cessna 195 with a 7 cylinder Jacobs in front. Sweetest plane to work on was a Beech 18. Most fun was helping rebuild a Stearman.
hugs, Brandi