clutch grinding??

[Ginormous]

I noticed on my new YM2210 that the clutch starts making a grinding noise if I push the pedal too far. The clutch seems to be working and gears shift fine, but if I try to push it to the floor, it starts making this grinding noise. Is this normal?

There is a little metal angle under the clutch pedal (wish I had a picture to post) that didn't appear to have any function, but I tightened it up and placed it so that it stops the clutch pedal after it engages and before it starts to make the grinding. I wonder, is that what it was supposed to be for?

 

[Smoody]

this is a "new" 2210 you just purchased correct?

my 2210 does not grind at all with the clutch pedal fully pressed...send it back, isn't this the 2nd thing you have found wrong with it?

don't take it wrong but im sure you paid a premium penny for that pointless process of making old yanmars pretty that importers do to inflate pricing. I would ask for another.

 

[Ginormous]

Yes, this is on my newly refurbished YM2210 that I received last week. The good importers do overhaul the engines and replace other parts like the radiator and water pump, so they do add some value in addition to the spiffy paint job. The tractor really runs very well. I have found some minor issues, but I'm kind of particular and it's nothing I wouldn't expect from a 35-year-old tractor -- for example, a crack in the gas cap, and Fredricks sent a replacement. I'm hoping the clutch just needs adjusted in some way.

 

[winston1]

Your powershift clutch pedal actually has two adjustments. One for the regular clutch and one for the powershift inertia brake. I am not suggesting what you do but just giving you this information out of a YM226 serivice manual. I do not know if it is the closest to your 2210 or not. :thumbsup:

 

[California]

That metal angle by the clutch is to block the clutch disengaged when the tractor will be stored until next rice season. In Japan where these tractors are operated half-submerged, a clutch stored wet can rust to the flywheel and be stuck solid next year when they take the tractor out. For operation in the US, that gadget is more like an appendix - not really needed but people leave them on there anyway.

 

[Smoody]

Yes, this is on my newly refurbished YM2210 that I received last week. The good importers do overhaul the engines and replace other parts like the radiator and water pump, so they do add some value in addition to the spiffy paint job. The tractor really runs very well. I have found some minor issues, but I'm kind of particular and it's nothing I wouldn't expect from a 35-year-old tractor -- for example, a crack in the gas cap, and Fredricks sent a replacement. I'm hoping the clutch just needs adjusted in some way.

I think my point was since you paid premium for a yanmar, it should have come with zero issues, no matter how small. I can see them missing the crack in gas cap, but not the grinding clutch.

I call the process pointless because who says it needed anything replaced on it? And if they are importing tractors in that much need of repair what makes them any better then a VN re conditioner doing the same thing giving same type of warranty?

I would at least let them know of all the things you find wrong, even if you fix it yourself.

 

[Ginormous]

That metal angle by the clutch is to block the clutch disengaged when the tractor will be stored until next rice season. In Japan where these tractors are operated half-submerged, a clutch stored wet can rust to the flywheel and be stuck solid next year when they take the tractor out. For operation in the US, that gadget is more like an appendix - not really needed but people leave them on there anyway.

I was wondering if that was the purpose since it is set up to be able to rotate freely. As long as it doesn't rattle around, I think I'll leave it on too. I've been working on trying to quiet my ride a bit... the valve on the exhaust sure was rattling loudly, but I was able to tighten it a bit and put some graphite lube on it and now it's almost silent. :thumbsup:

 

[Car Doc]

I like my exhaust flap rattle at idle. :laughing:

It sounds to me like the fork is hitting the pressure plate is all or the fingers are hitting the disc same issue over travel.

If it is and it was mine I would back the clutch adjustment off until it quits and not worry about it any clutch can be over adjusted. :thumbsup:

 

[grainger12002]

my 336d requires very little clutch to shift,(either the gear selector or the power shift,)not sure about others but i almostr never push the pedal all the way down...

From CT

 

[Ginormous]

It sounds to me like the fork is hitting the pressure plate is all or the fingers are hitting the disc same issue over travel.

If it is and it was mine I would back the clutch adjustment off until it quits and not worry about it any clutch can be over adjusted. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the advice. I have no experience working on clutches... well, a little now and a little more tonight probably!

 

[Ginormous]

my 336d requires very little clutch to shift,(either the gear selector or the power shift,)not sure about others but i almostr never push the pedal all the way down...

That's a good point. Mine doesn't require it either for shifting or for starting -- it has a safety switch that has to be engaged for the starter to get power. Mostly it's just habit. I'm used to putting the pedal to the metal, so to speak...

 

[careyo63]

On my 2000 I set the Pedal freeply to a 1/2". If I recal the Manuel Spec. is around 5/8". Something tells me throw out bearing. If it's only happening when youi engage it. IMHO run like you need it to. If lets go it's under Warrenty

 

[Ginormous]

On my 2000 I set the Pedal freeply to a 1/2". If I recal the Manuel Spec. is around 5/8". Something tells me throw out bearing. If it's only happening when youi engage it. IMHO run like you need it to. If lets go it's under Warrenty

The spec on a similar US model is about 1/2" to 1" of travel. I have this set to about 1"... do you have to split the tractor to replace the throw out bearing? *shudder* Hopefully it just works...

 

[Car Doc]

The spec on a similar US model is about 1/2" to 1" of travel. I have this set to about 1"... do you have to split the tractor to replace the throw out bearing? *shudder* Hopefully it just works...

Yes the tractor would have to come apart but I would let them do it if it gets that far.

Clutches 101: The minimum 1/2-1" adjustment is there for 2 reasons- first to allow enough travel to disengage the clutch fully and second there needs to be enough clearance between the throw out bearing and the clutch fingers so the t/o brg is not turning at all times which can wear them out earlier.

With that said anything in between or over is ok as long as the clutch works. I think my pedal moves a good couple inches before touching the pressure plate and it works great.

On powershift machines like ours there is another lever (at least mine has it externally) that pulls on a valve inside the trans case that dumps trany line pressure so the main manual trans will shift easier.

I know for a fact it isn't a big deal whether it works properly or not as long as it isn't being pulled open all the time rather staying closed like too tight and out of adjustment for instance meaning if it wasn't even hooked up it would be better than way out of adjustment. Fact I am not so sure its linkage couldn't be hitting the pressure plate from out of adjustment???

 

[Ginormous]

Car Doc -- thanks! I appreciate a little understanding of what is happening inside and that extra play in the clutch pedal should be ok. :thumbsup:

 

[careyo63]

Fact I am not so sure its linkage couldn't be hitting the pressure plate from out of adjustment???

Very doubtful it's the Linkage or even touching for that matter. Here the setup and throw out bearing.

 

[Car Doc]

That doesn't look like a powershift trans carey? On them there is another shaft and fork assy down below and behind the clutch fork shaft twords the trans that pulls the dump valve.

edit: And just so everybody understands I am just going off memory from my buddy's 2620D I put a clutch in last year. And while in there I found the PS dump valve shaft assy was rusted so bad it was inop and had been for probably since he got it 10 years ago (how I know for a fact it makes little difference if it works or not) I did get it working and adjusted it properly and he said he didn't notice any difference in shifting oh well. And I seem to remember thinking the PS dump valve fork could touch the PP if out of adjustment but I may be wrong been wrong before and will again I am sure.

 

[Car Doc]

Car Doc -- thanks! I appreciate a little understanding of what is happening inside and that extra play in the clutch pedal should be ok. :thumbsup:

Welcome! Yes I believe adjustment will do the trick. :thumbsup:

fwtw I do this stuff almost everyday just finished a Toyota 4wd v6 pickup an hour ago same exact principle except its hydraulic actuated and no adjustment necessary instead of lever operated.

 

[clemsonfor]

I noticed on my new YM2210 that the clutch starts making a grinding noise if I push the pedal too far. The clutch seems to be working and gears shift fine, but if I try to push it to the floor, it starts making this grinding noise. Is this normal?

There is a little metal angle under the clutch pedal (wish I had a picture to post) that didn't appear to have any function, but I tightened it up and placed it so that it stops the clutch pedal after it engages and before it starts to make the grinding. I wonder, is that what it was supposed to be for?

That metal angel thing is on all yanmars. Its a clutch holding thing. Used for when the tractor sits for a while you push the pedal in and flip that over the petal so that your clutch will not "stick" after being parked all year. Used for these tractors as they would operate in deep water or in humid environments.

 

[careyo63]

That doesn't look like a powershift trans carey? On them there is another shaft and fork assy down below and behind the clutch fork shaft twords the trans that pulls the dump valve.

edit: And just so everybody understands I am just going off memory from my buddy's 2620D I put a clutch in last year. And while in there I found the PS dump valve shaft assy was rusted so bad it was inop and had been for probably since he got it 10 years ago (how I know for a fact it makes little difference if it works or not) I did get it working and adjusted it properly and he said he didn't notice any difference in shifting oh well. And I seem to remember thinking the PS dump valve fork could touch the PP if out of adjustment but I may be wrong been wrong before and will again I am sure.

I keep thinking it's only when he engages the clutch so IMHO the throw out bearing? And the clutch assm. is the same both a Manuel and Power shift. Clutch Lock What?????