Cold cut saw

[Luke'sScreenName]

My problem will be that I frequently miter square or rectangular tube. These saws apparently prefer to cut as a diamond profile with a jig.

So, for example, making a 45deg miter as a 'diamond' is going to be like cutting crown molding with a non-compounding chop saw! Even worse with rectangular tube or 22.5deg angles!

Seems to me that those types of cuts will have to be made with a 'flat side up.' Am I making any sense? My thought is that you could move the work-piece to the front of the cutting table such that the blade hits the 'rear corner' first (the corner farthest away from you).

Any thoughts?

Edit: like the complicated set-up in the third picture from the link in post #94

 

[Sodo]

The diamond cut method simply avoids the long horizontal plunge part of cutting sq tube. Its for longer blade life. If the project requires a normal miter cut that's what you have to do.

Yes depending on tubing size you can spacer the workpiece rearward and get the same result. Miter cuts move the cut forward, achieving some of this "benefit".

You tend to think about things like this when buying $100 blades.

 

[bigtiller]

I see that some of the dry cut saws have a vacuum port on the back side. Does anyone know how well a shop vac would work connected to it?

The thought of the little chips embedded into the soles of my shoes is a bit of a deterrent.

 

[dragoneggs]

Not that I'm aware of, if there is you KNOW it'd be quite a bit more $$$ - but check my post#94 in this thread for one idea -

Another remote possibility - SOME of the woodworking chop saws are BELT driven (my DeWalt 12" slider for one) - I've NOT looked inside, but it MIGHT be possible to fiddle with the pulley ratio on one to get the blade speed down under 1800rpm without losing power -

Also, if you only needed 1 or 2 SPECIFIC compound angles, you could use the existing angle vise on a dry cut saw for ONE angle, and fab any SECOND angle you wanted with a piece of FB and a piece of angle (weld the angle onto the FB at whatever angle you need your SECOND angle to be, then rest the WORK piece in that angle iron)

Sometimes a problem is only un-solvable when you stop thinkin' about it... Steve

Yeah I don't mind 'getting jiggy with it' but wanted to make sure I knew fully what is available off the shelf in a reasonable price range before I make the 'plunge'. Especially if I opt for something more costly than the Evolution Rage II w/ upgraded blade.

 

[ajmaxham]

Check out ChuckE2009 review of the Trajan DM 250 duel miter metal dry cut saw. It is sold by SawBlade.com There is a link in ChuckE2009 video.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I have a HUGE industrial table saw... It's belt powered and I've been toying with the idea of re-gearing it and adding a cold cut saw blade to it...

Seems to me, all I'd have to do is build a sliding table that runs in it's two slots, (for stability) with a clamp on it.

SR

 

[BukitCase]

Dragon, the ONLY Evolution saw I've been referring to is the EVOSAW380 - the Rage2 is a TOTALLY different saw - I've seen a few gripes about that one, a couple on this site; and if you compare the pictures zoomed in

Evolution Power Tools EVOSAW38 15-Inch Steel Cutting Chop Saw - Power Circular Saws - Amazon.com

Evolution Power Tools RAGE2 Multi Purpose Cutting Chop Saw, 14-Inch - Power Circular Saws - Amazon.com

you can see why - Rage2 has a stamped steel base, thinner bent steel vise parts, no quick release on the vise, a cheesy little chain and hook to stow it for travel, and isn't capable of taking a 15" blade -

The EVOSAW380 has a cast base, thicker CAST vise parts, a flip-up vise release that lets you put a work piece in and just push the vise handle forward til it hits, then a turn or two to tighten, an actual steel PIN for travel position, and weighs 9 pounds more (mostly the difference between stamped thin steel parts in base AND vise)

Dunno how long the price at discountsteel.com is good for, but that's the cheapest I've found the EVOSAW yet. In my experience, the saying "buy once, cry once" seems to be valid MOST of the time so to me, paying a bit more up front is usually worth it. That's why I have a Miller mm252 and a Hypertherm PM45 - I've had both for about 6 years, and they (along with my Jet 8x12 band saw) have never done ANYTHING but WORK.

I know it sounds like it, but I'm really NOT tryin' to push you into something you don't wanna do, only make sure you know some of the things they DON'T say in descriptions... Steve

 

[Sodo]

I see that some of the dry cut saws have a vacuum port on the back side. Does anyone know how well a shop vac would work connected to it?

The thought of the little chips embedded into the soles of my shoes is a bit of a deterrent.

Vacuum would be a nice feature I suppose. Ut I often take the saw outside wher the chips fall on the dirt. . My shop floor near the saw is covered with chips and I just walked thru the area then into the house and looked at my shoes. No chips in shoes and doesn't seem like they'd penetrate. Have never seen chips in the house, so I can say my shoes don't pick up chips. I've had a chip in my sock before and it wasn't pleasant but not often.

Clouds of carborundum dust settled on everything in my shop, evey tool, greasegun, grease tub, oil bottle, chainsaw chain, etc etc etc is what gives ME the willies. I'd much prefer the steel chips that settle pretty close to the saw.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I have a HUGE industrial table saw... It's belt powered and I've been toying with the idea of re-gearing it and adding a cold cut saw blade to it...

Seems to me, all I'd have to do is build a sliding table that runs in it's two slots, (for stability) with a clamp on it.

SR

Kick back could be exciting!

 

[Xfaxman]

My Alfra dry cut has a chip drawer under the slot that catches most of the chips. It pulls out from the back to empty.