cold starting

   / cold starting #1  

K man

Platinum Member
Joined
May 11, 2014
Messages
685
Location
Quadeville, ont
Tractor
2014 Kioti CK 30 HST with cab. 2018 Cub Cadet Challenger 750 EPS UTV
Hi fellow Kioti lovers. I have a question when starting the tractor after being parked over night. Where would you position the fuel lever when starting. I mean do you open the throttle all the way, half way or just a bit open or better what RPM is the safest. Thanks for any replies.
The reason I ask is to try and minimize the smoke at start up or is this normal.
Thanks
Gilles
 
   / cold starting #2  
A little smoke is normal for the first second of startup. I put my throttle at about a quarter or less up from idle. I don't like to rev the engine to high before the oil is circulating. After start just let it idle a few seconds to get the oil moving then up 3/8 throttle for warm up.
 
   / cold starting
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks guys that is basically what I do open throttle just a bit and then when engine has started I will open her up a little more and then back to idling once warmed up and wait for HST oil to warm up a bit.
 
   / cold starting #5  
I start at idle.

The Diesel power lever is not like a throttle in a gas engine. With the engine stopped, the injection pump rack is already spring loaded to the max power position, regardless where you have the lever. As the engine starts and comes up to speed, the centrifugal governor pushes back against the spring, moving the rack to achieve and sustain a stable idle RPM. If you move the power lever you command a higher RPM setting. As long as the idle RPM is stable, commanding a higher RPM is no benefit and will not warm up the engine significantly faster. Once the oil has fully circulated, light loading from operating hydraulics or driving will speed warm up. All this applies to pre-Tier IV.
 
   / cold starting #6  
Start up smoke is not a problem and is nothing to be concerned about. If really concerned the block heater could be plugged in to raise the engine temperature to near normal operational levels.
 
   / cold starting #7  
I always start and shut down a diesel at idle speed. With my CK20S I start it and stare at the gauges until the glow light goes off before I operate anything. I do not operate under any load until the temp gauge moves off the pin. Don't want to spend money on expensive repairs.

RSKY
 
   / cold starting #8  
Any mechanically injected diesel engine, Kubota, Kioti, JD, caterpillar... anything mechanically injected, the pump internally sets the fuel at maximum delivery the second the engine is cranked and when it stars, the pump instantaneously reduces the delivery of fuel to the point at which the throttle lever is set at. IOW, no need to advance the fuel when starting, the pump does it for you. Why you get a puff of smoke everytime you start, hot or cold.

Electronically injected (Tier 4 final engines), advance the timing to do the same thing..... with no puff of smoke. Myself, I prefer a puff.:D
 
   / cold starting #9  
I always start and shut down a diesel at idle speed. With my CK20S I start it and stare at the gauges until the glow light goes off before I operate anything. I do not operate under any load until the temp gauge moves off the pin. Don't want to spend money on expensive repairs.

RSKY

You are however wasting fuel and wearing out the cylinder walls with extended low temperature operation . Either plug in a block heater to move the needle off th pin. Or start using the tractor in a lower gear and lighter loads as soon as the oil pressure rises. Until the engine coolant has warmed up half way to th normal operating point.
 
   / cold starting #10  
You are however wasting fuel and wearing out the cylinder walls with extended low temperature operation . Either plug in a block heater to move the needle off th pin. Or start using the tractor in a lower gear and lighter loads as soon as the oil pressure rises. Until the engine coolant has warmed up half way to th normal operating point.

I think you'll find that most operators manuals recommend warming the engine in very cold weather for a time before operating it at load. My Kubby manuals have specific warm up times.

No juice in my tractor barn anyway. The only thing that has a block heater is my diesel pickup and it only gets hotlined when I need it.
 
   / cold starting #11  
I think you'll find that most operators manuals recommend warming the engine in very cold weather for a time before operating it at load. My Kubby manuals have specific warm up times.

No juice in my tractor barn anyway. The only thing that has a block heater is my diesel pickup and it only gets hotlined when I need it.

Diesels don't warmup when idling like gassers do. Hence the wet stacking and lube oil dilution . The operator manuals state the engine is to be operated at light load once it's started up to speed the warming process.
Why do you think she is going to blow up unless cold idled ?
 
   / cold starting #12  
Neither of my Kubota's have ever 'wet stacked' as you put it and at no time does my Blackstone analysis show fuel dilution. Maybe if I idled them for hours on end in the dead of winter at below zero temperatures but I don't so I say 'phooey' to your post....

In fact, I have the operators manual for my M9000 sitting here and I quote from page 24 of the operators manual...

WARMING UP
Be sure to set the parking brake during warm up
Be sure to set all shift levers to neutral and PTO lever if OFF during warm up....

For 5 minutes after start up, allow the engine to warm up, at idle, without applying any load, this will allow oil to reach every part. If load should be applied to the engine without this warm up period, trouble such as siezure, breakage or premature wear may develop....

IMPORTANT
Do not operate the tractor under full load condition, until it is sufficiently warmed up

Right out of my M9 operators manual (Code Number 3A881-9971-1

It says basically the same thing in the manual for my 105 X as well. But that manual is in the shop right mow.

Between the 2 units I have about 120 grand invested. I intend to follow recommended procedures because they weren't cheap.
 
   / cold starting #13  
One of the biggest reasons to idle the engine when it is very cold started is to keep the hydraulic pump happy. If you don't start slow you can break the pump shaft and also wear the internals very rapidly, if idled up too soon the pump will cavitate and put small pits all over the inside of the pump. The hydraulic fluid is quite thick when cold and does not like to flow smoothly through the filter very well. The pumps always make a racket in colt temps until the fluid has had a chance to get moving and build a little heat.
 
   / cold starting #14  
Neither of my Kubota's have ever 'wet stacked' as you put it and at no time does my Blackstone analysis show fuel dilution. Maybe if I idled them for hours on end in the dead of winter at below zero temperatures but I don't so I say 'phooey' to your post....

In fact, I have the operators manual for my M9000 sitting here and I quote from page 24 of the operators manual...

WARMING UP
Be sure to set the parking brake during warm up
Be sure to set all shift levers to neutral and PTO lever if OFF during warm up....

For 5 minutes after start up, allow the engine to warm up, at idle, without applying any load, this will allow oil to reach every part. If load should be applied to the engine without this warm up period, trouble such as siezure, breakage or premature wear may develop....

IMPORTANT
Do not operate the tractor under full load condition, until it is sufficiently warmed up

Right out of my M9 operators manual (Code Number 3A881-9971-1

It says basically the same thing in the manual for my 105 X as well. But that manual is in the shop right mow.

Between the 2 units I have about 120 grand invested. I intend to follow recommended procedures because they weren't cheap.

Later I"ll pull out the manual for my JD that states not to extended idle the engine but to lightly load the engine in a lower to assist warmup without damage.
 
   / cold starting #15  
One of the biggest reasons to idle the engine when it is very cold started is to keep the hydraulic pump happy. If you don't start slow you can break the pump shaft and also wear the internals very rapidly, if idled up too soon the pump will cavitate and put small pits all over the inside of the pump. The hydraulic fluid is quite thick when cold and does not like to flow smoothly through the filter very well. The pumps always make a racket in colt temps until the fluid has had a chance to get moving and build a little heat.


That is why there is low viscosity winter hydraulic oil and electric pre-heaters .
 
   / cold starting #17  
That is why there is low viscosity winter hydraulic oil and electric pre-heaters .

Low viscosity 'Winter Hydraulic oil'??? You have to be kidding me.....again. care to post an example of that? In as much as most hydraulic fluid is already low viscosity I', patently curious.....
 
   / cold starting #18  
Later I"ll pull out the manual for my JD that states not to extended idle the engine but to lightly load the engine in a lower to assist warmup without damage.

Sounds like a quote from a foreign-made tractor, you sure you have a Deere? Or did someone paint your Kioti green?
Diesels warm up just fine at idle, and need that time to circulate oil to all areas of the engine, 5-10 minutes in warm conditions and longer when cold. The hydraulics will warm up with light use of the tractor until up to operating temps.
 
   / cold starting #19  
Sounds like a quote from a foreign-made tractor, you sure you have a Deere? Or did someone paint your Kioti green?

LOL... a Deere and Kubota owner duke'in it out in a Koiti forum......

Rancho.. livin south of I-10 wondering what this warm up issue is....
 
   / cold starting #20  
My manual says to turn the key to on, wait til the glow-plug heater light goes off and then start the engine. It says warm at idle for 3-4 minutes, 10 in cold temps. I alway let it warm up for about 5 minutes before upping the revs and driving when starting from cold. And I always ease the throttle up, I don't push the lever up to full.

I also use as much (little) throttle as necessary. IDK if always operating at full throttle (2600 revs) is good or bad.
 

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