cold starting

   / cold starting #11  
I think you'll find that most operators manuals recommend warming the engine in very cold weather for a time before operating it at load. My Kubby manuals have specific warm up times.

No juice in my tractor barn anyway. The only thing that has a block heater is my diesel pickup and it only gets hotlined when I need it.

Diesels don't warmup when idling like gassers do. Hence the wet stacking and lube oil dilution . The operator manuals state the engine is to be operated at light load once it's started up to speed the warming process.
Why do you think she is going to blow up unless cold idled ?
 
   / cold starting #12  
Neither of my Kubota's have ever 'wet stacked' as you put it and at no time does my Blackstone analysis show fuel dilution. Maybe if I idled them for hours on end in the dead of winter at below zero temperatures but I don't so I say 'phooey' to your post....

In fact, I have the operators manual for my M9000 sitting here and I quote from page 24 of the operators manual...

WARMING UP
Be sure to set the parking brake during warm up
Be sure to set all shift levers to neutral and PTO lever if OFF during warm up....

For 5 minutes after start up, allow the engine to warm up, at idle, without applying any load, this will allow oil to reach every part. If load should be applied to the engine without this warm up period, trouble such as siezure, breakage or premature wear may develop....

IMPORTANT
Do not operate the tractor under full load condition, until it is sufficiently warmed up

Right out of my M9 operators manual (Code Number 3A881-9971-1

It says basically the same thing in the manual for my 105 X as well. But that manual is in the shop right mow.

Between the 2 units I have about 120 grand invested. I intend to follow recommended procedures because they weren't cheap.
 
   / cold starting #13  
One of the biggest reasons to idle the engine when it is very cold started is to keep the hydraulic pump happy. If you don't start slow you can break the pump shaft and also wear the internals very rapidly, if idled up too soon the pump will cavitate and put small pits all over the inside of the pump. The hydraulic fluid is quite thick when cold and does not like to flow smoothly through the filter very well. The pumps always make a racket in colt temps until the fluid has had a chance to get moving and build a little heat.
 
   / cold starting #14  
Neither of my Kubota's have ever 'wet stacked' as you put it and at no time does my Blackstone analysis show fuel dilution. Maybe if I idled them for hours on end in the dead of winter at below zero temperatures but I don't so I say 'phooey' to your post....

In fact, I have the operators manual for my M9000 sitting here and I quote from page 24 of the operators manual...

WARMING UP
Be sure to set the parking brake during warm up
Be sure to set all shift levers to neutral and PTO lever if OFF during warm up....

For 5 minutes after start up, allow the engine to warm up, at idle, without applying any load, this will allow oil to reach every part. If load should be applied to the engine without this warm up period, trouble such as siezure, breakage or premature wear may develop....

IMPORTANT
Do not operate the tractor under full load condition, until it is sufficiently warmed up

Right out of my M9 operators manual (Code Number 3A881-9971-1

It says basically the same thing in the manual for my 105 X as well. But that manual is in the shop right mow.

Between the 2 units I have about 120 grand invested. I intend to follow recommended procedures because they weren't cheap.

Later I"ll pull out the manual for my JD that states not to extended idle the engine but to lightly load the engine in a lower to assist warmup without damage.
 
   / cold starting #15  
One of the biggest reasons to idle the engine when it is very cold started is to keep the hydraulic pump happy. If you don't start slow you can break the pump shaft and also wear the internals very rapidly, if idled up too soon the pump will cavitate and put small pits all over the inside of the pump. The hydraulic fluid is quite thick when cold and does not like to flow smoothly through the filter very well. The pumps always make a racket in colt temps until the fluid has had a chance to get moving and build a little heat.


That is why there is low viscosity winter hydraulic oil and electric pre-heaters .
 
   / cold starting #17  
That is why there is low viscosity winter hydraulic oil and electric pre-heaters .

Low viscosity 'Winter Hydraulic oil'??? You have to be kidding me.....again. care to post an example of that? In as much as most hydraulic fluid is already low viscosity I', patently curious.....
 
   / cold starting #18  
Later I"ll pull out the manual for my JD that states not to extended idle the engine but to lightly load the engine in a lower to assist warmup without damage.

Sounds like a quote from a foreign-made tractor, you sure you have a Deere? Or did someone paint your Kioti green?
Diesels warm up just fine at idle, and need that time to circulate oil to all areas of the engine, 5-10 minutes in warm conditions and longer when cold. The hydraulics will warm up with light use of the tractor until up to operating temps.
 
   / cold starting #19  
Sounds like a quote from a foreign-made tractor, you sure you have a Deere? Or did someone paint your Kioti green?

LOL... a Deere and Kubota owner duke'in it out in a Koiti forum......

Rancho.. livin south of I-10 wondering what this warm up issue is....
 
   / cold starting #20  
My manual says to turn the key to on, wait til the glow-plug heater light goes off and then start the engine. It says warm at idle for 3-4 minutes, 10 in cold temps. I alway let it warm up for about 5 minutes before upping the revs and driving when starting from cold. And I always ease the throttle up, I don't push the lever up to full.

I also use as much (little) throttle as necessary. IDK if always operating at full throttle (2600 revs) is good or bad.
 

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