Comparison/ Validation

[nrosario]

There other things you are also missing.
For example some of the models you listed have position control and factory telescopic 3pt links/stabilizers.

I think you might want to consider all the options, functions and what every model brings to the table.

Have you check your local dealers for every brand!?

-One thing for sure, you don't want a cab in tractor without AC-

 

[nards444]

There other things you are also missing.
For example some of the models you listed have position control and factory telescopic 3pt links/stabilizers.

I think you might want to consider all the options, functions and what every model brings to the table.

Have you check your local dealers for every brand!?

-One thing for sure, you don't want a cab in tractor without AC-

Have checked everything available that was local. Problem with MH is the dealer is Kubota and he wants to push his kubota and is dragging feet on the MH. nearest dealer is not even close besides Him. NH is also at the same dealer but there is one closer and working on a quote.

I have balanced a lot of requirements against cost and use. Right of the bat I will not have any 3 point attachments. I really see this as a 50 hour a year machine maybe more maybe less. I do want to get the right thing, so thanks for the feedback.

 

[fried1765]

Ive looked at used machines, and will have some cash to put down and can always finance in my own way. My only problem with this so far has been the bulk of tractors in this family size do not have cabs, and very few combos had blowers of any kind. So while I could find some descent used ones between the 15-22k mark by the time i added a cab and blower it would have been the same price as new if not more. And frankly to be upfront 10-20 year old tractors with 1000hours on them just dont interest me at this point.

"And frankly to be upfront 10-20 year old tractors with 1000 hours on them just dont interest me at this point."

That is where we differ greatly!
10-20 year old tractors with 1000 hours are precisely what I am attracted to.
My newest tractor is 30 years old with 1056 hours.

I have a 39 year old Rabbit diesel pickup.
I have a 32 year old Jeep.
I have a 22 year old K2500 4x4 Suburban.
I have a 23 year old Mercedes.
My newest car is a 9 year old Corolla.

I keep everything in as close to mint condition as possible.

I live in a 289 year old house.

 

[nards444]

"And frankly to be upfront 10-20 year old tractors with 1000 hours on them just dont interest me at this point."

That is where we differ greatly!
10-20 year old tractors with 1000 hours are precisely what I am attracted to.
My newest tractor is 30 years old with 1056 hours.

I have a 39 year old Rabbit diesel pickup.
I have a 32 year old Jeep.
I have a 22 year old K2500 4x4 Suburban.
I have a 23 year old Mercedes.
My newest car is a 9 year old Corolla.

I keep everything in as close to mint condition as possible.

I live in a 289 year old house.

I got ya to each his own. Ive played the old game before whether you get lucky or not the cost savings on buying used ends up closing the gap in time with a new purchase in either money and or time. Either way I have looked at low hours 5-6 year old stuff by the time I made additions in attachments they would be more money. Even looking at 10-15 year old tractors after I add a cab and blower I might see a 5k savings

 

[nybirdman]

I dont see a L2650 I see a 2501 online with no cab so thats going to be after market with no AC and by the time the cab is added to the 2501 There really isnt going to be a cost savings.

Now did get another quote for the 2650 just now for 30k vs 32k.

Sorry ,typo should have been B2650 with factory cab.

 

[nards444]

Sorry ,typo should have been B2650 with factory cab.

no problem. Kubota blowers really arent that bad think a front was 4k so doubt a rear is that much cheaper. Either way that model is 32-35k with tax. Theres better buys out there.

 

[PEJ5]

The Ck3510Cab is a great machine. It snowed enough this winter that a blew the driveway once a week for 10 weeks straight and I still only put 20 hours on the tractor. $7K for a front mounted blower to only use it 20 or 30 hours a year is a lot$$. I suggest you price out a rear blower - $3300CDN new here. Some complain about facing backwards but I found it no problem and I was operating without a cab. An option to price out and consider.

 

[Jchonline]

Hoping you saw the advice for getting AC with the cab. If you are using the machine in the summer, you will want AC or need to be sure you can keep the doors locked open and have access to front/rear windows opening.

NH workmasters are made by LS, off the same assembly line. Not certain on the Boomers. Any tractor dealer/manufacturer that would sell a cab with no AC is suspect!

You can also get quotes from other Kubota dealers within a few hundred miles and see if you can get your local to match. Or you can get a TYM or any other brand. It is of course your choice.

For the poster that mentioned the front mount Hydraulic snow blower....not without a rear power pack. There is nowhere near enough flow in these machines to drive a hydraulic snow blower alone. I also think the rear power packs are a bad idea. It is much better to have a rear blade on during snow season! Front blower and a rear blade is about as good as it gets!

 

[arnoldziffel]

Do you have a Branson tractor dealer in your area?

Worth a look if you do.

 

[airbiscuit]

Ok, I misunderstood what you thought were factory cabs I also went back and forth with blowers and decided I want my bucket. I am going to get a 3pt inverted snow blower that has electric chute control so I don't have to spend the extra money on another Hydraulic remotes. The tractor I just purchase sits higher than the ones you are looking at so an inverted blower might not be as good for you. Here in Maine my tractor has no problem driving over 2ft of snow, so I think the inverted will work good for me.

I agree with having a budget, but I am notoriously bad about busting my budget by a few thousand to get what I want My wife has become used to this, lol.

Here's the Rear Pull Snowblower Option

 

[shooterdon]

I am going through the same process buddy. I was all set on a front blower until I realized what a PITA they can be. First the cost, then the space needed to store the subframe when you take it off, then needing to crawl under the machine to hook it up. Plus I need the FEL, so constant switching over.

I am surprised at your price on the LS XR 3135. My dealer quoted $28.1k for the machine with loader. Front blower was another $6500.

The NH dealer suggested using a front blade with hydraulic angling. With the blade mounted on the loader it will be easier to push banks back as the blade can be raised. But another option is getting a used 3pt blower which is easily found. On the drive way, angle the blade to move snow to the center instead of to the edge, then use the rear blower on the return pass...repeat on other side of road. Accurately driving backwards is not critical using this method. I think by using mirrors, it will not be necessary to look backwards. With the LS, hose run from one of the rear remotes handles the cylinder on the front blade.

If you can keep the front blower on all winter, it is not as bad. It depends on what other rashes you may want to accomplish.

 

[nards444]

Hoping you saw the advice for getting AC with the cab. If you are using the machine in the summer, you will want AC or need to be sure you can keep the doors locked open and have access to front/rear windows opening.

NH workmasters are made by LS, off the same assembly line. Not certain on the Boomers. Any tractor dealer/manufacturer that would sell a cab with no AC is suspect!

You can also get quotes from other Kubota dealers within a few hundred miles and see if you can get your local to match. Or you can get a TYM or any other brand. It is of course your choice.

For the poster that mentioned the front mount Hydraulic snow blower....not without a rear power pack. There is nowhere near enough flow in these machines to drive a hydraulic snow blower alone. I also think the rear power packs are a bad idea. It is much better to have a rear blade on during snow season! Front blower and a rear blade is about as good as it gets!

Yeah LS makes some of the NH not sure on the Boomers but you are right on the workmasters. As for the cab, I know TYMs doors come off. I tried a few kubota dealers, local was 32k plus tax, if I drive out of state, they are 30k no tax, so if i want it a drive is a no brainer.

 

[nards444]

Do you have a Branson tractor dealer in your area?

Worth a look if you do.

yeah none in New York state.

 

[nards444]

I did sit on the mahindra emax 25-26hp last night, problem with that one and Im not tall is the foot controls made it so my knees had to be in my stomach

 

[tradosaurus]

I think you were too quick to knok Mahindra out of the mix. The tractors may be built by TYM but once you get above 25hp you have emissions systems and Mahindra doesn't have a DPF so no regens. Mahindra also has a bigger dealer network than TYM and even Kioti so getting service and parts should be easier as well.

Mahindra is deceptive in their wording. They still have to meet Tier IV emissions so using common technology with catalytic converter and EGR the engine runs hot ALL the time to continually burn soot as opposed to dpf system that burn hot periodically.

 

[mmc205]

Western PA checking in, 2012 Kubota B2320 100 hours FEL and rotomec 5 foot tiller, $12,000 private sale.

 

[nards444]

Mahindra is deceptive in their wording. They still have to meet Tier IV emissions so using common technology with catalytic converter and EGR the engine runs hot ALL the time to continually burn soot as opposed to dpf system that burn hot periodically.

I did some reading on on it. The concept is there and people say their catalytic converter is not listed as a wear part like a DPF is. Either way I agree with you I think they are deceptive as well. Plus the claim that it will never have to be replaced by some or even some Mahindra reps is very bold considering this system has only been out 1-2 years we dont know anything about it yet.

I think they are nice machines. But IMO they are a upcharged TYM.

 

[TractorNH]

Mahindra is deceptive in their wording. They still have to meet Tier IV emissions so using common technology with catalytic converter and EGR the engine runs hot ALL the time to continually burn soot as opposed to dpf system that burn hot periodically.

They don't run even close to as hot as a DPF. DOC is a different technology which creates a chemical reaction with the catalyst in the DOC unit to convert the diesel particulate, carbon monoxide, and hydrocarbon gasses into CO2 and water the same way it works on a typical automobile.

In a DPF regen either there is an injector sending fuel directly into the DPF or the computer is making the engine injectors fire on the exhaust stroke to send fuel into the DPF but either way, a DPF needs to reach over 1100 deg F to burn off the carbon buildup and it does that by burning raw fuel in addition to creating high exhaust temperature from the engine to do it.

 

[nards444]

They don't run even close to as hot as a DPF. DOC is a different technology which creates a chemical reaction with the catalyst in the DOC unit to convert the diesel particulate, carbon monoxide, and hydrocarbon gasses into CO2 and water the same way it works on a typical automobile.

In a DPF regen either there is an injector sending fuel directly into the DPF or the computer is making the engine injectors fire on the exhaust stroke to send fuel into the DPF but either way, a DPF needs to reach over 1100 deg F to burn off the carbon buildup and it does that by burning raw fuel in addition to creating high exhaust temperature from the engine to do it.

No your right, but they run hotter across the baseline, doesnt mean thats bad. What he's saying is the Mahindra may run at 180 degrees all the time vs brand x runs at 160, but you are right the DPF does burn at over 1000 degress while it is doing it, good or bad I dont know.

 

[tradosaurus]

They don't run even close to as hot as a DPF. DOC is a different technology which creates a chemical reaction with the catalyst in the DOC unit to convert the diesel particulate, carbon monoxide, and hydrocarbon gasses into CO2 and water the same way it works on a typical automobile.

In a DPF regen either there is an injector sending fuel directly into the DPF or the computer is making the engine injectors fire on the exhaust stroke to send fuel into the DPF but either way, a DPF needs to reach over 1100 deg F to burn off the carbon buildup and it does that by burning raw fuel in addition to creating high exhaust temperature from the engine to do it.

Mahindra 1533 VS. Kubota L3301 - YouTube