Concrete project: will this work?

[FTG-05]

Sealer is applied to fresh concrete to slow the cure. The slower the cure, the stronger the concrete. After that, it protects it as stated above. You can get a small 1 gallon bucket of sealer and spray, brush, or roll it on.

I didn't know that. I *assumed* it was just the opposite; that the sealer would ****** moisture from getting to the concrete, impeding it's future strength.

Next time I go to HD, I'll get some and apply it.

No progress today: I have roof work being done, it's in the very low 40's and windy. I'm going to let the concrete adhesive cure on more day, then set the tabletop tomorrow.

Thanks,

 

[SandburRanch]

Have you considered paint. A good quality oil or water based porch enamel (paint formulated for foot traffic) would last as long or longer than a sealer. The plus side is you could paint it in any color you wanted. Very nice bench.

+++
Unless the sealer is UV resistant it won't be there long. For long term appearance paint it or leave it concrete and don't be concerned with standing water. I believe I read that it is sloped to drain. Good idea.

 

[paulharvey]

I didn't know that. I *assumed* it was just the opposite; that the sealer would ****** moisture from getting to the concrete, impeding it's future strength.

Thanks,

The water is already in the Concrete, and is working hydrating the Cement. By sealing the Concrete you allow the water to stay in the concrete to hydrate the Cement. When the water evaporates it leads to weaker concrete, as the cement has less water to work it's magic with. We aren't talking about the difference between 1000 psi and 5000 psi; more like 2750 vs 3000. It's not a huge deal, more theory then a huge game changer.

 

[Streetcar]

Have you considered paint. A good quality oil or water based porch enamel (paint formulated for foot traffic) would last as long or longer than a sealer. The plus side is you could paint it in any color you wanted. Very nice bench.

The sealer will help with water loss during curing for the support structure. Paint is bad because it traps moisture. You want a breathable sealer which limits moisture and makes cleanup easier. Look for silene sealer at HD

 

[Hiltz]

Paint is bad because it traps moisture. You want a breathable sealer which limits moisture and makes cleanup easier.

Not sure where you get this. There are millions of painted concrete structures all over the world.

 

[FTG-05]

I used something to make that corner, I guess it's a quarter round.


What should I use in place of the quarter round? Please use small words, I don't do wood beyond 2x4's, 4x4's etc.


You need a cove molding instead of the quarter round. Its the opposite shape of quarter round. Think backwards when making a pattern. This will make a nice roundover on your edges. Any box lumber yard will have it right next to the quarter round you bought. You will have to plane down both edges of the cove to make a full cove. A hand plane would work fine. Good luck with your project.

Is this what cove molding/moulding looks like?

I found lots of different cove molding shapes, but this appeared to be the one you're talking about.



And yes, I was trying to break the 90 degree crack-inducing sharp corners for the table top. After the fact, I did "break" them some more via use of the concrete crick rub I have.

While it's too late for this project, in the future, I'll want to break the edge - what should I have used or what's better?

Thanks,

 

[bcp]

You could also consider vinyl wall base to line your form.





Or cardboard corner protectors.





Or half of a plastic rectangular downspout.



Bruce

 

[Ford850]

For corners in a form like yours, I use a thick bead of caulk. Cut the caulk tube snout about half way down so you get a full bead. I use a plastic spoon to trowel it, leaving a nice smooth rounded corner.

 

[Hiltz]

Is this what cove molding/moulding looks like?

I found lots of different cove molding shapes, but this appeared to be the one you're talking about.



And yes, I was trying to break the 90 degree crack-inducing sharp corners for the table top. After the fact, I did "break" them some more via use of the concrete crick rub I have.

While it's too late for this project, in the future, I'll want to break the edge - what should I have used or what's better?

Thanks,

Ahh, that's the one. Your corners need a "full" cove so the small shoulders will have to be planed down or these 2 small offsets will transfer to your casting. Easy to do with a hand plane or if you have a jointer.

 

[FTG-05]

For corners in a form like yours, I use a thick bead of caulk. Cut the caulk tube snout about half way down so you get a full bead. I use a plastic spoon to trowel it, leaving a nice smooth rounded corner.

Ok, if and when the form ever gets used again or if I need it for another form, I'll do that.

Thanks,