Confused about Supersteer

Maurice · Apr 17, 2003

djradz,

A concern I have with the RFM is the ability of the mover to pick-up the grass that the front and read wheels have squished. Thus leaving rows of grass taller where the wheels have run, after it stands back up.

Do you have any such problem?

Maybe the type of mower, rear discharge or windtunnel, I think its called, would make a difference with my question. Which do you have?

Oh-Oh, starting to answer my own questions with other questions. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

hazmat · Apr 17, 2003

Get a mower with "high lift" blades (more "sail" area). They will suck the grass up no problem. I had a landpride RFM before my MMM. Cut quality was the same. Both being excellant. Both are rear discharge.

thcri · Apr 18, 2003

( …the back inside tire pretty much stops when you turn the steering wheel tight…

If the one back tire basically stops in SS mode… wouldn’t this greatly hinder snow plowing operation with lack of traction…?
)

Not really John. Sensi-trac just pulls in the 4 wheel drive automatically and away you go. But who is going to even try plowing something while trying to turn that tight? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

But the whole statement I was trying to make was just how tight you can turn with it. It comes in very handy for mowing with a MMM. You can go right around the trees and other objects with no problems. No manufacturer has a tractor that can turn as sharp as Super-Steer. And again, even with loader work if I had to do it all over again Super-Steer would be a must not an option.

murph

Maurice · Apr 18, 2003

Thanks for the info!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Are "high lift" blades standard on most finish mowers or is that something I need to ask the sales guy about on a particular brand?

Was there a particular reason you switched from the RFM to the MMM

I'm leaning toward the MMM right now. Need to find a dealer with one on so I can determine how difficult it will be for me to take off and put back on. That might sway me toward the RFM. And all this based on never using a RFM. Sounds like I need to try an RFM out also. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

djradz · Apr 18, 2003

I've not noticed any appreciable pressing down of the grass to the extent that the RFM doesn't cut the grass as short. My Craftsman lawn tractor with a MMM probably does it just as much from just the weight of the front wheels.

I tried high lift blades for a few years and didn't notice any difference. With my 6 ft mower the blade tip speed must be pretty fast and I already get plenty of lift with the regular blades. Plus, the high lift blades were a few bucks more and not stocked. I also switched to some other blade manufacturer along the way but have always come back to Woods since their steel seems to be superior. Occasionally, I use my RFM to cut some fields and trails on our property so there's an occasional stump or rock /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif that gets hit.

My RFM is an old Woods RM 306, picture attached. I would say it has no special provisions for a "wind-tunnel" and is not a rear discharge design, however, with both side plates as pictured, the rear's where the grass comes out. RM 306

grainger12002 · Apr 18, 2003

That is agreat looking unit,can you give me an idea what they cost. I want to get a finish mower lie the one you have pictured.Are you happy with the performance of it? sure looks great !! Lloyd

DVerbarg · Apr 19, 2003

Maurice,

Just went out and did a turn (with SS on a TC40D) and the diameter of the inside circle is around 18". I would interested in knowing what the diameter is on a non-SS unit.

djradz · Apr 21, 2003

Boy Loyd, what a loaded question. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I haven't priced mowers for quite some time and I'm sure others could give you better information than I, but I'll take a few guesses. For a similar Woods unit, you're probably in the $1,400 - $2,000 range, but you're getting a pretty heavy duty machine. On the low end, I think for a King Kutter or similar unit made by Howse you're probably in the $800 to $1,200 range. I've been extremely happy with my Woods 6 ft unit. I've abused the heck out of it, (as far as heavy duty mowing on trails, brush, small trees, and even on those rare occasions, a rock or stump) /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif and still it keeps on ticking. It was built sometime around the early to mid-1970's and still is on the original drive belt. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I did rebuild the bearing housings once but other than that the only thing is some fresh paint and some new rear wheels. With it's ability to float, it does a beautiful job. One real nice thing about Woods is that even now, 25 years later, parts are still available anywhere Woods equipment is sold. Their new units, especially the RD series looks real nice to me.

Maurice · Apr 21, 2003

Dave,

WOW! 18", that's a darn tight circle! Thanks for taking the time to do the measuring.

I too would also like the diameter of a non-SS.

Do you need to use the brakes to get the tight, or just go slowly?

BTW, just found out the a local mall actually has NH tractors inside the mall, kinda like the car dealers do. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Now I finally have something to do/look at while the wife shops /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Hoeman00 · Apr 23, 2003

I had a 6' Woods RFM on a L2900 Kubota and traded in on the 35D w/ SS and 84" MMM.
This is one fine mowing unit.
I'll have to measure again but I recall less than 30" of uncut grass in a full turn.
I mow 1 pass around yard then do 180 degree turns on every pass (looks neat the stripe effect).
The cut is FAR superior to the Woods and it seems like the 84" takes less power to run than the Woods.
Try to turn the pto of different mowers by hand but the 6' Woods had to be turned w/ a bar.
As for taking on and off, I usually do it once a week.
One thing I found to speed do it is;
1. Unhook the pto drive
2. Unhook front pins
3. Pull front end up on 1' long RR ties
4. Unhook rear pins
5. Pull mower out to side.
To install do reverse, this is on concrete pad in front of garage.
The 6"+ height of RR ties lets mower roll straight out w/o weaving around gearbox.
I haven't timed it yet but a couple minutes removing and less than 5 minutes installing and greasing it.