Correct use of shuttle shifter

[oosik]

Different trannys but I operate just the same as LouNY. An extra ten seconds to do it and protect all those gears/clutches. An extra $10,000 +++ to do it faster and risk it all.

 

[Jrasband]

I shift back and forth between forward and reverse without clutch no worry if high RPM or high range if in 1st.. I also use the shuttle to shift gears without having to use the clutch.

 

[stumblinhorse]

I don't and never have. No need to, let the hydraulic clutch pack do the thinking. You ain't gonna wear it out unless you really abuse it. besides, the built in hydraulic proportioning valve modulates the the clutch lockup according the engine RPM and sensed load. What it's designed to do.

My Case will allow it, but man does it throw you forward at 540 pto in a mid range gear. So I use the clutch to keep me off the windshield!

 

[m5040]

My Case will allow it, but man does it throw you forward at 540 pto in a mid range gear. So I use the clutch to keep me off the windshield!

The Kubota shifts smoothly. I just keep thinking about when I was 16 and went from neutral to drive on my car to spin the tires and half expect the tractor to do the same. I finally feel comfortable doing it at low RPM, I will work up to the 540 eventually. Good to know it is a normal operation.

 

[big bubba]

this discussion depends on what tractor manufacturer is in question. my only experience is with hyd shuttle on Kubota Utility 8540. i always come to full stop (or slow coast) before changing direction with shuttle with out using clutch pedal

the actuater valve within the wet clutch pack (as mentioned previously) does the rest
far superior to single dry clutch plate commonly called "shuttle shift" requiring clutch pedal depression when changing direction

 

[DK35vince]

this discussion depends on what tractor manufacturer is in question. my only experience is with hyd shuttle on Kubota Utility 8540. i always come to full stop (or slow coast) before changing direction with shuttle with out using clutch pedal

the actuater valve within the wet clutch pack (as mentioned previously) does the rest
far superior to single dry clutch plate commonly called "shuttle shift" requiring clutch pedal depression when changing direction

Depends more on the model than manufacturer.
Most mfg. offer shuttle shift on some models and hydraulic shuttle on others depending on the model

 

[big bubba]

agree, it does get complicated. & it does pay do to one's homework.
OP: posting on this forum is a good start. i'm very pleased w/my own hyd shuttle set up, regards

 

[5030]

My Case will allow it, but man does it throw you forward at 540 pto in a mid range gear. So I use the clutch to keep me off the windshield!

Some modulate the motion reversal better than others, just fortunate my Kubota's modulate the pack lock up well and I suspect the spring loaded damper plate in the bell housing contributes to that as well. I never want a dry clutch as at some point they all need to be replaced and that entails a split and time and money. My 'clutch' pedal acts on the hydraulic valve that modulates the internal wet clutch pack in the main transmission case.

Clutching it basically locks the pack in the released position and even then, when released, the valve modulates the lock up pressure so no 'jerking' unless it senses a heavy load on the pto and then it's sort of abrupt. Not sure if you are aware but you can adjust the lock up pressure and the rate of lockup (least on my Kubota's you can but you need a workshop manual for those specs). Least on mine you do as the manual tells you how to and the required minimum and maximum pressure specs and on mine, it takes a special double end fitting to access the pressure port on the valve itself and I have access to it through my dealer plus I have access to the workshop manual and can bring it home if need be. I consider myself lucky to have a dealer like that. I can even use their scan tools and special tools if I want to but then working part time there does have it's advantages. The pay isn't great but the 'ancillary' benefits cannot be beat and I buy my implements and have bought my tractors at dealer cost in the past. I pick up and deliver his tractors with his single axle diesel roll back truck when needed or my tandem axle 28 foot Gooseneck trailer and work in the shop doing the grunt stuff when they are really busy which is more than I want to work anyway. Being 74 and gainfully retired and owning my own shop and having 2 full time employees is quite enough for this old man. I mostly do it as a favor and I get treated like family there anyway. He's a big volume dealer too. His back lot is always loaded with new and used Kubota and Case units and he sells Cub Cadet professional series lawn equipment and Echo chain saws as well and they work on Case and IH combines a lot. His lead tech has a reputation locally for quality one time fix work so he's always booked up and I won't let anyone but Dennis (lead tech) work on my Kubota's either. If he's busy. I wait, no problem and if it's something urgent, I can borrow a tractor from him if I need one and I let my repair sit in his yard until he can do it. BTW, I pick up and deliver to him, my tractors with his truck and they deliver parts to the farm, no charge. I have a fantastic relationship with them, you don't find that sort of thing just anywhere. Been dealing with him for over 30 years now. I know everyone that works there personally as well as the owner and his family.

Little shameless plug here....

It's Carleton Farm Supply on Grafton Road in Carleton, Michigan and Keith owns it and he's real laid back to deal with and he is the only salesman and owns it too. Everyone there farms part time except him and we pick up and deliver in the tri state area, Indiana, Ohio and Michigan. Why I have a Class A CDL and so does Dennis and Keith. They have a website and you can Goggle it and get their phone number and see what they have for sale, new and used and I can tell you their used equipment gets gone through before they offer it for sale.

I'm buying a used Kubota F20 front mount diesel powered mower that is coming in on trade from the Monroe County Fair Board this spring. Their new front mount is sitting there presently and they will go through it 100% before I buy it. I know nothing about hydrostats or little Kubota motors either. I'm sure it will be 'ready to rock' when I bring it out to the farm and I'm trading in a Cub professional ZTR that I have to replace it. I've spent a ton of money there and never have had a second thought about any of it either. I paid 54 for my one Kubota back in 2002 new and 16 2 years ago for the used Open Station I have, 40 for anew round bailer, 15 for my bat wing and 30 for my disc mower plus at least another 20 for the other stuff and filters and stuff that needs replaced. That don't include the stump grinder or the plows or the side by side my wife bought new. Good folks btw. I won't deal with anyone else. I don't pay sales tax either as we are a working farm so we are exempt from use taxes.

 

[mcmxi]

Depressing foot pedal on M7040 with hyd shuttle only opens a hyd valve. Loading/unloading rd bales with my M7040 hyd shuttle I utilize foot accelerator pedal so engine lowers to idle speed when changing directions without depressing clutch pedal. Only utilize clutch pedal for changing standard gear box & hi-lo gears

I have to feather the clutch when backing up to a trailer or implement, putting the loader back on or swapping out loader attachments. I use the accelerator pedal and manual clutch just like a car/truck when I need fine control of the position of the tractor. I also reduce rpm to a minimum before moving the hydraulic shuttle, and wait for the tractor to slow down to a crawl or complete stop before changing directions.

 

[5030]

If it's a column mounted hydraulic shuttle you have no clutch at all. Your 'inching is accomplished by the loose and not clamped hydraulic pack only. Kubota has not installed a dry clutch in the bell housing for years know, They understand the principle quite well and negate a dry clutch 100%. All that is inside the bell housing is a spring loaded damper plate (to keep any shock load off the crank flange) and the input shaft for the main box. The damper plate looks like a dry clutch plate but no drive plate at all.

Don't know about other makes but that is how Kubota does it. I would presume the other makes follow suit but again, I don't know as all I own are large frame Kubota's. No clutch disc, no pressure plate no intermediate shaft, no nothing but the gearbox seal and the crankshaft seal and no wobbling that comes with a worn friction disk and the resultant seal failures from excessive run out and vibration.

I'm not really good at explaining how they work so if my previous posts lack some detailed info, please excuse them. I'm 74 years old and suffer from brain fade kind of like ***** does, just not quite as bad...lol

Suffice to say, they work and work well and require little maintenance except changing the gearbox oil regularly and the filters and using a good hydraulic fluid and not the crap Tractor Supply sells either. The wet packs are kind of particular what fluid lubricates them. I use Chevron All Weather Synthetic fluid in mine and it ain't cheap either. Last time I change them, last spring, it was 150 bucks a pail from my jobber, I'm sure it's appreciably more today, like everything else is. NAPA also sells it, special order but I never priced it there plus I get it tax exempt from my jobber and that saves me 6.5% tax. Both my Kubota's have the optional inching controls mounted on the right fender and both have telescoping lower links as well so hooking up stuff is pretty easy. New Kubota large frame tractors come with electric inching controls standard today as well as telescoping lower links and true adjustable bevel boxes mounted on the right hand lower lift arm. I optioned both of mine when I bought them with the bevel boxes as well as the 2 speed pto's and the creep gears plus 3 sets of remotes and flow control valve on the top set. Might as well get it all in one shot I said. Buy once and cry once. I would have preferred the double outboard lower link lift cylinders as well but that was not available when I bought mine so I'm stuck with the Cat 2-3 rock box lift.