Corrosion

   / Corrosion #11  
DwightD123 said:
I absolutely love my LS but I am not blind to the fact it is less expensive for a reason. If rambler is certain of this and I am seeing the results of this then perhaps it's worth looking into. It doesnt bother me as long as it is something I can work with or fix. The bottom line is: There is corrosion...what are some recommendations?

Due a search for Fluid Film I have read on here it works.
 
   / Corrosion #12  
I absolutely love my LS but I am not blind to the fact it is less expensive for a reason. If rambler is certain of this and I am seeing the results of this then perhaps it's worth looking into. It doesnt bother me as long as it is something I can work with or fix. The bottom line is: There is corrosion...what are some recommendations?

The yellow coating going white sounds like either indoor paint reacting to UV rays, cheap exterior paint doing the same, or possibly separation from the paint and the surface below due to not cleaning before painting. I could be wrong, but that is what it sounds like. Could you take some pictures to show us?
 
   / Corrosion
  • Thread Starter
#13  
The yellow coating going white sounds like either indoor paint reacting to UV rays, cheap exterior paint doing the same, or possibly separation from the paint and the surface below due to not cleaning before painting. I could be wrong, but that is what it sounds like. Could you take some pictures to show us?

I will the next time I go to my farm in 2 weeks. I have ordered some Fluid Film as it really looks like a scaling/oxydization rather than a paint issue. I could be wrong though so I will take some pics and post them when I get back. Thanks for the interest in helping me.
 
   / Corrosion #14  
The yellow coating going white sounds like either indoor paint reacting to UV rays, cheap exterior paint doing the same, or possibly separation from the paint and the surface below due to not cleaning before painting. I could be wrong, but that is what it sounds like. Could you take some pictures to show us?

What he's talking about is the cadmium plating on the hyd connectors. It's the yellowish plating they put on various hardware items.
 
   / Corrosion #15  
What he's talking about is the cadmium plating on the hyd connectors. It's the yellowish plating they put on various hardware items.

Any idea why they put that plating on it? Is it to create an oxidized surface that doesn't go any deeper? If it is a metal plating then I'm sure there has to be a reason for it...
 
   / Corrosion #16  
Cadmium coatings are used on metal as a sacrificial coating. It is supposed to "rust" and that rust prohibits air from reacting with the steel it is coating.
Your QD couplers are preforming as designed. It is normal. I often get new cadmium plated chain with a touch of that white dust from sitting in storage.:thumbsup:
 
   / Corrosion #17  
The coatings used to be cadmium but since cadmium is considered a carcinogen they quit using it many years ago and now the coatings dont last as long. I am not sure what they use now but it isnt cadmium. Just coat anything steel fixture with a shiny chrome or yellowish tint with a little light grease or hydraulic oil and dont worry about it. The coating is only a micron or so thick anyway and all of them will eventually rust if exposed to the elements. The coatings are mainly just to keep them shiny while in the store.
 
   / Corrosion
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Sprayed all my shilny parts and bolts with Fluid Film. That stuff is pretty amazing. I also sprayed the transmission ID plate so that will stay easy to read. Once you get going with the stuff it's hard to stop. I don't expect there is a bolt or hydro line or QC that will corrode now.
 
   / Corrosion #19  
There is a reason why the Boomer was contracted out to Korea ......... and it is not to improve QUALITY, style, or better engineering. They build for less which will express a couple problems down the road. For the most part they will be just as serviceable. In world economy a price cut in machinery will ultimately reflect metal quality. I just hope its not the bearing in the center of the transmission.... $ 50.00 bearing, $2000 labor to replace along with associated parts. A weekend duty tractor will last eons. The seven - twenty four full use farm edition...... I would go with an old stand by name that stock parts for twenty years and has a reputation for quality.
 
   / Corrosion
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Wasn't really looking for a buying comparison discussion. I already did the research and it was clear LS was the best value for my needs by a long shot. Like the Deere forums or Kubota forums when there is an issue or perceived issue (and we all have them) this is the place to bring it up so others can help. I found some excellent advice with Fluid Film and it appears to be a $3 can of perfect resolution.
I appreciate your opinion but please consider placing it in the category of buying/pricing comparison and direct specific solution-based answers to specific question threads like this one. Please don't take that as rude but rather constructive direction.
 

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