My Stupidity kicked in at full throttle.

[etpm]

It sounds to me like you have paint making the thing stick. Since you said it is power coated. So at least some kind of paint. If the coupling detent has indeed not been able to engage then if it was mine I would use some sort of paint solvent mixed with some sort of oil to help loosen the assembly. Mix the stuff up and apply while applying some sort of pulling force. Not too much force, but a steady force. Maybe use a ratchet strap and then use a brush to paint on the solvent mixture. And apply the solvent mixture often and heavily. It will probably need to wick in some. Just don't really yank on the thing. I'm sure once the paint starts to get soft it will let go.
Eric

 

[Jstpssng]

Gentle heat on the yoke may also help.
I don't remember if anybody mentioned it yet.

As for the title; in another forum there is a thread on stupid things we have done. I thought I could easily win that one, but found out that I'm a lightweight. Yet somehow this reminds me of the time I drove my '85 Ranger for a while without the front driveshaft installed... then did very similar to what the OP describes.

 

[confederatemule]

A picture of the stuck PTO connection would help

You are correct.

 

[WinterDeere]

Could you take the u-joint apart and then possibly use a puller.

late to this thread, but this is the ONLY way to do this job. It's possible you already damaged the PTO by driving the shaft end onto it, but why double your chance of damage pulling on it?

They are not made to handle a lot of thrust force, and there are plenty of printed warnings about damaging one just by having a PTO shaft that's a bit too long, to where the telescoping driveshaft may bottom out and push on the stub as the implement goes up/down.

There's a rubber seal at the stub/housing interface, so torch heat is not your friend, here. Use a puller. If there's not enough space between driveshaft end and PTO housing to get standard gear puller jaws onto it, then use a bearing splitter type puller. A $30 puller could save you $1000 in repairs, and a lot of lost time.

 

[confederatemule]

O K, thanks for all of the helpful positive posts. I appreciate the negative posts also. I find something useful in any response.
The shaft is off.
I used a ratchet strap attached to a tree with the other end hooked to the shaft, just before the U-joint. With a hammer I tapped on the strap hook in a direction away from the tractor. After a tap or two I would try to tighten one click. Finally it came off like an arrow shot from Robin Hood's bow.
Before I put the shaft back on the stub the stub will be clean down to the bare metal. It will be lubricated, at least this one time.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

About Aerokroil. I had my own repair business 43 years and it does have unique properties. I know it's expensive but I use it sparingly.
I wouldn't have a shop without a can. That and dead-blow hammers.
When my Deere was brand new I had a time with PTO also. I used some emery cloth even in grooves. Then clean-clean-clean. WD-40 wash, wipe, repeat. As said a little clean grease & keep covered not in use.
It only takes a minute to clean hydraulic connectors, PTO, grease fittings, etc. every time it's used.

 

[Jstpssng]

O K, thanks for all of the helpful positive posts. I appreciate the negative posts also. I find something useful in any response.
The shaft is off.
I used a ratchet strap attached to a tree with the other end hooked to the shaft, just before the U-joint. With a hammer I tapped on the strap hook in a direction away from the tractor. After a tap or two I would try to tighten one click. Finally it came off like an arrow shot from Robin Hood's bow.
Before I put the shaft back on the stub the stub will be clean down to the bare metal. It will be lubricated, at least this one time.

It's always nice to read a story with a happy ending.

 

[airbiscuit]

..The shaft is off. I used a ratchet strap attached to a tree with the other end hooked to the shaft, just before the U-joint. With a hammer I tapped on the strap hook in a direction away from the tractor. After a tap or two I would try to tighten one click. Finally it came off like an arrow shot from Robin Hood's bow.
Before I put the shaft back on the stub the stub will be clean down to the bare metal. It will be lubricated, at least this one time.

 

[mllud]

Just a note
The old girl likes the shaft to engage without force. It should slide right on.
Now you can go back to work.

 

[RayIN]

O K, thanks for all of the helpful positive posts. I appreciate the negative posts also. I find something useful in any response.
The shaft is off.
I used a ratchet strap attached to a tree with the other end hooked to the shaft, just before the U-joint. With a hammer I tapped on the strap hook in a direction away from the tractor. After a tap or two I would try to tighten one click. Finally it came off like an arrow shot from Robin Hood's bow.
Before I put the shaft back on the stub the stub will be clean down to the bare metal. It will be lubricated, at least this one time.

Clean the PTO splines with Acetone to remove all paint. If the paint is a heavy coat, wrap the splines with a rag, then soak it in Acetone, outside of course.